Splicing 16 strand

There are some things you can do to make the 16 strand splice easier, but first...

[ QUOTE ]
by BlinkyNick will kill me for divulging the secret but the best way to splice 16 strand is to...

[/ QUOTE ]

On the contraire, good sir. These forums are so that we may all learn. I do have a few secrets that I will never share (mwah hah hah!!!!) But I truly do want to help people become better splicers. And I agree 100%. On short 16 strand slings, get rid of the core and make the cover tail be the core. Then you don't have to mess with the stupid crossover.

[ QUOTE ]
by Jesse:I am not an experienced splicer but I have done some 16 strand splicing. It is my understanding that the crossover is a very important part the splice, it adds a lot of strength to it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Brion already clarified this point, but I wanted to reiterate, the crossover doesn't really "add" strength, but rather serves as the transition from the cover tail to the original core strands. We want it to be smooth A) to minimize chafe and B)to provide smooth hitch slidage as the friction hitch slides over that part of the rope. Both hour glasses and divots can cause the hitch to jam for a second.

[ QUOTE ]
by moray: The case is not proved, but my results certainly suggest that overlapping cores or tapered buries don't have a big effect on strength.

[/ QUOTE ]

Moray, I don't dispute the findings of your testing. However, I do want to remind that lab testing and actual use are very different. In the field the non-tapered splice would see a lot of abrasion/chafe right at the bump. Put that splice on the testing bed after 6 months and I think you'll see that 90% efficiency drop dramatically.

There is rarely ever a good reason to not do a good taper for tree climbers and arboreal riggers. Can anyone think of one?

Here are a few tips that come to mind when doing the 16 strand splice:

1. Before beginning the crossover, complete the eye and throat of the splice. You'll have enough to worry about soon. You don't want to have to come back to deal with the eye/throat later.

2. Jesse mentioned he the bury in 2 passes. Pass one brings the cover tail to Mark C, (not Mark Chisholm...), then the second pass bring the cover tail from C to D. 1 long pass is easier, but for many people 2 passes is most feasible. If this is you, don't bring the first pass right out at C. Bring it out a couple inches above C (a couple inches closer to the eye). There is a lot of strand distortion already from the core strands coming out at C. You want to work else where.

3. The Toss Wand is my favorite splicing tool, by a long shot. However, when dealing with crossovers, don't use the Toss Wand on 16 strand. The wire fid will be your friend. Coat hanger wire is the thickest you'll really encounter, and that'll do just fine.

4. Before bringing the fid from through from D to C, pull out a lot of core strands. Your goal is to bunch up the cover around the crossover. This gives you a bit more room inside the rope to pass the fid. You are minimizing resistance.

5. Insert the tip of the fid on the side opposite where the core strands are coming out. Think of the core strands coming out as a little face or a head sticking out of the rope. You want the fid running of the spine of that person. I really need a better way to explain that!

6. When bring the tip of the fid between C and D, keep tension on the core strands with one hand while the other two hands are working the fid through the rope. (You do have 3 hands, don't you?). Keeping gentle tension on the core strands makes it a little harder for the fid to get tangled in the core strands. It also amplifies what you can "feel." You'll have a better chance of "feeling" if the tip of the fid got twisted up in the core strands.

7. Once the fid is all the way through, pull on the core strands to ensure it slides freely. If it doesn't, you've snagged core strands. Pull the fid completely out (or at least back it out to clear the jam) then reinsert it.

8. Now the fid is in place. Attach the tip of the cover tail and begin pulling the tail through. Again, keep tension on the core strands when possible. The core strands provide resistance to the cover strands. You can minimize that resistance by keeping them taut and thin.

9. Regardless of what type of fid you are using, make sure it is anchored to something so that you can use both hands to work the cover, core, and tail of the rope.

10. This part might not make sense until after your first few 16 strand splices: Finesse will get you much further, much faster, and with much less frustration than will strength. This is true in many facets of life.

Please let me know if any of this doesn't makes sense.

love
nick

and yes, there's one secret that I have that really helps, but I save that for the folks that take my splicing class! :)
 
First of all, you need to be using the rigth size wand in a vise on a solid object. Second, Stanley Longstaff, Rest his awesome soul, told me that you only need a 7 inch crossover as opposed to the almost impossible 11 inch that was originally called for. The key to the crossover is a lot of milking and massaging. I always had a clevis mounted to my bolted down splicing desk. A small prusik helps the milking process and saves your hands. You are better off splicing 11 or 12 mill. double braid, it's way easier and runs smoother.

Stay tied in,

X-man O.G.
 
[ QUOTE ]
What is the best way to attach the tail to the wire fid or the coat hanger?

[/ QUOTE ]

i just slip it in the wire coat hanger fid
 
I put it in the coat hanger fid, put the tail of the cord thru about 4 inches, then taper that core about 12 at the point of connection at the fid, this lessens the diameter of that lead and has helped a lot.
 
You barely need an inch of tail tucked into the wire fid to pull through. It's a balance. The more you put in the more secure it will be but the harder it will be to pull through.
 
Old thread but I'm having a hard digesting some of this. I recently bought a 16 strand line and opted to get it spliced since I've never tried a 16 strand splice. I was surprised when I got the rope because the eye was very floppy and I realised that there was no core in the eye section. Is this normal?
 
Yes, the core is removed and replaced with the cover and then they overlap further down to lock the core in place. I sometimes put the core back in the eye to firm it up.
 
Awesome thanks Brocky. I can feel further down where it fattens up a little. I've never had a spliced 16 strand so it caught me off guard to have such a floppy eye.
 
I thought the machine did the core bury in double braids, would the rope bend if a full diameter were forced in with the core on a 16 strand.
 
No it pulls the the full diameter in.
I watched it at the factory but can’t remember exactly how it was done. I think both the cover and core were tapered.
 
Looks very tight near the eye, almost more rectangular than round! Thanks for sharing, any idea how far it was buried?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom