Show off them splices

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Your last picture shows how to get the baggyness out of the eye, but on the opposite side of the eye. You need to push the slack from throat to the other side of the eye and put a pin through it. Now pull on the pin, which will pull the core out, which gets sucked back into the rope as you try to bury the crossover. If you do that and the crossover is fully buried, it should be done. Next put a small load on it and then see if that narrower diameter is still there. I'm thinking that the cover has slipped in the crossover, creating a longer eye, which would cause the core bury to come out. This would explain why it was easier to do and why it is more flexible than the first splice.

You see.. the problem is.. I've done that with the slack in the eye.. I've pinned the bagginess on both sides & keep getting the same result.. Which is, it won't pass into the the throat... It just bunches up right there before the throat, but won't pass beyond it. I haven't tried what you just suggested though..

Now pull on the pin, which will pull the core out, which gets sucked back into the rope as you try to bury the crossover.

So when you say pull "pull on pin".. do you mean use the little orange pik to pull with? I'm sorry I'm just not following.. i understand how your supposed to lose the slack, but it's just not happening. If i pull on the pik that has the bunched slack below it on the correct side, it should dissapear is what your saying? Or am i trying to pull the bury/core out again by trying to pull on the pin?

I'll give it a shot in the mean time, I'll see what happens..

Heres what it looks like now after pulling the bury out all over again & pinning after my last post last nite. This is not the result of what you just suggested.

You mentioned the cover slipping causing a bigger eye.. BUT.. my eye keeps ending up smaller than planned though.. this eye was supposed to be 8inches or so.. id guess it's buried to about 5" right now.. Also the crossover is stitched so is that still possible?. Just throwing that out there..

Am i just all over the place & not making sense here? Tell me if i am I'll try to explain better.

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[Brocky]

If the eye is three inches shorter than measured, that means there is six inches of the eye that is buried that shouldn't be. Trying to pull it out might also force the core to come along with it, bunching up the eye again. A possible reason is the cover and core have become unbalanced, and you've got too much cover. Tie some string around the side of the eye that isn't buried to keep the core in place and either load it or pull out the bury, until your mark shows up. Keeping your mark in place, milk the cover to the end of the rope to balance it again.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

If the eye is three inches shorter than measured, that means there is six inches of the eye that is buried that shouldn't be. Trying to pull it out might also force the core to come along with it, bunching up the eye again. A possible reason is the cover and core have become unbalanced, and you've got too much cover. Tie some string around the side of the eye that isn't buried to keep the core in place and either load it or pull out the bury, until your mark shows up. Keeping your mark in place, milk the cover to the end of the rope to balance it again.

Oh.. ok i follow what your saying.. i am going to try that right now..

Aside from that & the possibility of it being too screwed up to come back
let me ask you this.. If i did too much tapering on both cover & core everytime it was required plus a little core "removal", would it cause this bagginess & bury too far? On my tapers i made them very long fearing the struggle i had last time burying things. However.. before i did the first bury from C to D, I also removed 4 braids of the core, which were 4 strands per braid.
I did this "removal" right before i did this step..

I also have a question on 16 strand & a indescrepency/confusion in Teufelberger's instructions..

At the mark below you can see it is tapered after the mark which i thought was the exit mark you make on both cover & core right before the last step. However they instructions state to make that mark, then pull cover/core out about 1 fid length & taper..

Well.. i pulled about 1 fid length out from that mark, then cut at mark, then tapered back to the rope. So, it looks nothing like that picture.. see photoshop explaination of what i did.

I guess this question all hinges on whether that black mark is their exit mark or something else. The picture is from Jamestown distributors but instructions are Teufelberger's instructions... If that black mark is their exit mark & as you can see the taper is after, how did they bury it as it's longer than the mark that gets put there after equalizing.

Here's what i did

I know.. I'm bouncing around here.. 24strand.. 16 strand.. just trying to learn correctly.

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[Jimmycrackcorn]

SON OF A GUN!
I just put the two Tachyon Splices I've done next to each other to mess around with lock stiching them & I noticed Mark "D" on both of them looked like they were are different lengths!

So I measured them.. & on the first one I used a "long fid section" like the instructions call for... However, on this second one I've been having so much trouble with, i measured a "full fid length"..

Is this why the 8in eye i wanted keeps sucking down to around a 4or5in eye? The difference in the fids is 3-1/2".. just like the difference in the eye.. So what's going on.. is it like the tapers aren't meeting on the inside? Or something like that? Should i just bury until i can't anymore?


My question on the 16 strand instructions still needs answering though.. i just now noticed i feel a little hollow spot where the core & cover get tapered & buried at the last two marks. It's about a 2in section.. just feels soft like the eye.. Should i care about this or is it ok because it's 16 strand.. I can just trash it if it's a problem.

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[Brocky]

The tapers on the crossover on the 16 strand should be gradual on both the cover and core. If done right the rope will have a consistent diameter. Having it bulge or have a thin spot from not tapering correctly won't effect the break strength, it will be a problem when you try to run a hitch over that spot.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

I really recommend getting some practice rope. Get some double braid and practice making dead eye slings. Then you can cut off the tachyon eye and try again. Tachyon is a finicky rope to splice with.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

This is my practice rope bud. Was cheap enough to lose if i gave up on it.

Can you comment on the differences in length i noticed or should it be obvious I answered my own questions there... On this most recent eye splice, in respects to marks B - D i did a full fid where it calls for a long section. I just don't know if that's the reason it's burying so far beyond what i was shooting for. I don't need an explanation as to why, just a yes or no.

If you still think i should try something different, what would you suggest? I want something i can use, not just throw in the junk closet..lol. Do you have a preferred double braid? Maybe something i could make a Pulley saver with. That's kinda what i was going for with that big eye.

Also need some 8mm i can easily do something with.


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[Santiago Casanova]

This is my practice rope bud. Was cheap enough to lose if i gave up on it.

Can you comment on the differences in length i noticed or should it be obvious I answered my own questions there... On this most recent eye splice, in respects to marks B - D i did a full fid where it calls for a long section. I just don't know if that's the reason it's burying so far beyond what i was shooting for. I don't need an explanation as to why, just a yes or no.

If you still think i should try something different, what would you suggest? I want something i can use, not just throw in the junk closet..lol. Do you have a preferred double braid? Maybe something i could make a Pulley saver with. That's kinda what i was going for with that big eye.

Also need some 8mm i can easily do something with.


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For 8mm, Ocean is really easy to splice. I like samson and yale double braid rigging lines.

http://www.splicesbynick.com/splicingdirections

Use his tachyon directions. I do everything the same except I bury the cover in the core first and taper it. Next I bury the core, taper and bring it home.

I really like NGD's method. I pretty much learned from this vid and practice.

 

[Santiago Casanova]

Don't be too hard on yourself now. I had to take a break from trying to splice kernmaster. Once I got my skills a little sharper I am able to splice the unspliceable.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

The tapers on the crossover on the 16 strand should be gradual on both the cover and core. If done right the rope will have a consistent diameter. Having it bulge or have a thin spot from not tapering correctly won't effect the break strength, it will be a problem when you try to run a hitch over that spot.

Right right.. ok.. that makes sense to me.. i won't sweat it...
But do you see that picture i posted? It's looks like it's tapered way beyond the exit mark.. like on the wrong side of the mark. If that mark represents the rope equalized, then that means anything beyond & to the right of the mark will be exposed after.. Right?

Teufelberger Instructions don't have a picture of that step.. it's Jamestown's picture with Teufelbergers instructions.. so i don't have anything to compare in that respect. I believe Samsons 16 strand instructions would fall in line with the way i was doing it, but the Teufelberger 16 strand is a little different in regards to the core material so i want to be positive.

There was also a huge red disclaimer warning about splicing this particular rope, whereas i haven't seen it on any others..

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[Santiago Casanova]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1-2-x-...344450?hash=item23a2b0b2c2:g:Nd8AAOSwdu9aocS1

This is good practice rope.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Don't be too hard on yourself now. I had to take a break from trying to splice kernmaster. Once I got my skills a little sharper I am able to splice the unspliceable.

Ok.. great.. I'll look into the ocean..

I am familiar with the NGD video. Although i don't believe i just fast forwarded to where he was getting rid of the bag in the eye as that is a issue in the Tachyon I'm having. I will watch again & listen a bit closer.

I had downloaded Nick's instructions but was having a hard time reading them on the phone & the pictures sucked.. I'll have to print them out & get a better look. I think I've tried the different methods of burying the cover in the core etc.. haven't landed on what i find to be easier yet.

Can you comment on the measurement screw up i made? Is that why my eye is coming out wrong or would the measurement between the B-D mark have no bearing on that. To me, It seems like it would. Especially seeing as the difference in the eye is the same as the measurement screw up... If it's not ok too have a longer core bury without changing other measurements, I'm just going to trash it.

Don't worry i won't be too hard on myself.. however i can't take any breaks..lol i need what I'm making.. i choose to fabricate instead of buying.. I just feel guilty bombarding y'all with these questions.. questions that may or may not have obvious answers to some, but not too me.

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[Jimmycrackcorn]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1-2-x-...344450?hash=item23a2b0b2c2:g:Nd8AAOSwdu9aocS1

This is good practice rope.

Oh boy.. you just opened up a can of jimmycrackcorns...lol.

This is where my mind melts down.. Boat VS Arb industry..
What is what, where does it go & what is acceptable.. can i use for rigging, can i use for climbing, what's it's elongation, can it be shock loaded..blah blah blah... Ever since i saw that Yale YouTube clip where there much larger Ultrex was shock loaded & snapped compared to the much smaller static line which didn't, it blew my mind & I've never looked at rope the same..

That's the same seller i bought the Tachyon from.. i wish he just gave a little more specs on the rope as i have no clue what half of the Marine lines are or what they can be used for.

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[Santiago Casanova]

Oh boy.. you just opened up a can of jimmycrackcorns...lol.

This is where my mind melts down.. Boat VS Arb industry..
What is what, where does it go & what is acceptable.. can i use for rigging, can i use for climbing, what's it's elongation, can it be shock loaded..blah blah blah... Ever since i saw that Yale YouTube clip where there much larger Ultrex was shock loaded & snapped compared to the much smaller static line which didn't, it blew my mind & I've never looked at rope the same..

That's the same seller i bought the Tachyon from.. i wish he just gave a little more specs on the rope as i have no clue what half of the Marine lines are or what they can be used for.

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Oh boy.. you just opened up a can of jimmycrackcorns...lol.

This is where my mind melts down.. Boat VS Arb industry..
What is what, where does it go & what is acceptable.. can i use for rigging, can i use for climbing, what's it's elongation, can it be shock loaded..blah blah blah... Ever since i saw that Yale YouTube clip where there much larger Ultrex was shock loaded & snapped compared to the much smaller static line which didn't, it blew my mind & I've never looked at rope the same..

That's the same seller i bought the Tachyon from.. i wish he just gave a little more specs on the rope as i have no clue what half of the Marine lines are or what they can be used for.

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Arb rigging lines first came from nautical applications. What you need to look at is materials, construction, working load and break strength. I believe yale polydyne or dynasorb is used as a dock line.

Samson tenex is heavily used in marine applications because it is strong, cheap, easy to splice and easy to inspect. You will find a lot of crossover in rigging lines. Climbing lines are very much arb specific.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Arb rigging lines first came from nautical applications. What you need to look at is materials, construction, working load and break strength. I believe yale polydyne or dynasorb is used as a dock line.

Samson tenex is heavily used in marine applications because it is strong, cheap, easy to splice and easy to inspect. You will find a lot of crossover in rigging lines. Climbing lines are very much arb specific.

I figured as much..

Seeing as you can identify direct industry crossovers.. have you found that the Arb side has a higher mark up than it's marine counterpart?

Say.. other than just guestimating, is there a standard manufacturer approved method for making an E2E with 16strand that doesn't require it to be super long? This may be advanced for me but I'd like to at least look over the method..


Just did this guy here with 16 strand.. How about some fuzz... Does this look correct or is there a special requirement for the rig rings.. ring is in super tight... this will either end up as an adjustable Friction saver or a light limb sling..

Shold i be concerned about this bend radius? I really got this thing in there tight.. no hydraulic assist this time though.. Just my weight in a harness tied off to a hitch.


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[Santiago Casanova]

That looks good. Don't worry about the fuzz or the bend radius. The bend radius is bigger than a carabiner. You can use heat to melt the fuzz back. A torch lighter passed near the fuzz for less than half a second can take care of that but be very careful.

I have not found differences in prices between manufacturers because I mainly get my rope from ebay. If you know the markings you can buy name brand stuff that is sold as unknown rope.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

That looks good. Don't worry about the fuzz or the bend radius. The bend radius is bigger than a carabiner. You can use heat to melt the fuzz back. A torch lighter passed near the fuzz for less than half a second can take care of that but be very careful.

I have not found differences in prices between manufacturers because I mainly get my rope from ebay. If you know the markings you can buy name brand stuff that is sold as unknown rope.

Cool cool! I'm glad to hear that!! Now only if i had planned ahead to put an eye at the other end.. this thing is going to be a little longer than i thought..

Is this why i see more double braid rope tools..? Cuz 16 strand uses a ton of cord to make the splices?

Anyone know the right measures for shortening up 16 strand? Or do i really have to add another 2-3ft to this thing for a eye?

 

[Daveyface]

View attachment 51945

i swear you buy every rope i look at lol. i got a bunch of tachyon of all colors to make some goodies. i love the green

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Hey.. is it ok to leave the core in the eye of a 16 strand..? Just in the eye.. no where else it's not supposed to be. Full core tapered in between Mark A & B.. hoping by tapering, it won't end up too hard to bury.. (tighten strands around bury, etc..)

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[Brocky]

You can put the core back into the eye, easy to to do, you won't need to taper. It's a two step process, first one side of the eye and then the other.