Shock loading of hardware

I think it is probably nylon double braid. I like a polyester double braid with a nylon core because they are a little tougher. The nylon/nylon construction gives for a higher stretch.

If I had to guess what makes it special beyond an extra abrasion resistant cover/coating, it would be that it is not steam/heat treated when it is constructed. Most climbing lines with a nylon core are steam treated at the factory to stabilize the core and minimize shrinkage.

Chains can be more dangerous and they can be safer. Rope can be more dangerous and rope can be safer. It really depends on what you are doing. Don't "snatch" with a chain. Tension it slow and then give it hell when all the slack is gone. Don't snatch with a rope. Draw it tight without going too fast. Hold and let the rope do its magic. As the tension drops use the throttle to keep it kind of constant.

I think the 30% claims are probably BS. That is probably right before it breaks. I think if you were to repeatedly go past 10% elongation, the rope would wear out pretty quick.

One last thing to consider is the environment you are using the rope in. Mud becomes very abrasive once it dries into rope. It really shortens a ropes life. Why spend 600 on a name brand recovery rope when you can buy some yale or samson scraps and make a dozen for the same price.

You can also buy recovery straps much cheaper. $50 to $100 buys a 30 foot strap, with eyes, rated over 30,000lbs abs.
 
I think it is probably nylon double braid. I like a polyester double braid with a nylon core because they are a little tougher. The nylon/nylon construction gives for a higher stretch.

If I had to guess what makes it special beyond an extra abrasion resistant cover/coating, it would be that it is not steam/heat treated when it is constructed. Most climbing lines with a nylon core are steam treated at the factory to stabilize the core and minimize shrinkage.

Chains can be more dangerous and they can be safer. Rope can be more dangerous and rope can be safer. It really depends on what you are doing. Don't "snatch" with a chain. Tension it slow and then give it hell when all the slack is gone. Don't snatch with a rope. Draw it tight without going too fast. Hold and let the rope do its magic. As the tension drops use the throttle to keep it kind of constant.

I think the 30% claims are probably BS. That is probably right before it breaks. I think if you were to repeatedly go past 10% elongation, the rope would wear out pretty quick.

One last thing to consider is the environment you are using the rope in. Mud becomes very abrasive once it dries into rope. It really shortens a ropes life. Why spend 600 on a name brand recovery rope when you can buy some yale or samson scraps and make a dozen for the same price.

You can also buy recovery straps much cheaper. $50 to $100 buys a 30 foot strap, with eyes, rated over 30,000lbs abs.

- Yes, they are nylon Double braids.

- You may be into something with the steam treatment as a few of the ads i saw mentioned to Abington fit shrinkage if after getting wet or something like that.. However, it may be a brand specific thing.. iirc, the ones that mentioned this were cheaper alternatives.

- I agree, that 30% thing has got to be BS.. At least not on a repeatable basis.. That is unless they have something super special being manufacturer for them.. But considering what I've found available from rope manufacturers within their general lineup, i doubt it.. The stetchiest I've find so far is a nylon 8 brait from Yale, it elongated upwards of 25% before it reaches it's minimum breaking strength. I'm looking forward to hearing back from Atlantic Braids & seeing what they have to say about their Jerk-it rope.. yes.. that's the name they applied to it..lol..

- Again, i agree, I'm definatley not going to blow 600 on a recovery rope when i can make something identical to what they are doing for probably a 1/4 the cost. I think what these vendors are doing is just preying on the fact most ppl don't know anything about Cordage, nevermind possesing the splicing knowledge... Yeah, 1" - 2" double braid can get pricey for sure, but if you break down the length of the "sling" on a per foot basis, what they are charging is outrageous..

I want the most stretch i can get, so instead of just using what i already have kicking around, I'll wait to hear from Atlantic Braids & if it ain't nothing special I'll probably just grab some Yale Yalon, Samson Super Strong or possibly some Yale 8 brait depending on its Splicing instructions, however i would prefer a DB.

-As far as the straps go, I've only had bad experiences with snapping them.. but i was real young & a bit wild back then trying to dislodge full size trucks from boggs etc.. when in reality they needed a winching..
Regardless, I just know i did not like the hammering i had to give my daily driver with tow chains last winter when i got jammed up & compleley snowpacked with a 1100lbs on the front & about 1000lbs in the bed after losing a sight of a driveway while plowing.. Only way that thing was coming out was by snapping it out .... or by a winch that wasn't available & would have taken to long to show up while big $$ was falling from the sky. Hence current my quest for something super stretchy.. i believe this dynamic rope technic would have worked without the hammering of vehicles.

Although i now have a better idea of what these vendors are using, if anyone knows exactly what these vendors are using, feel free to chime in. It would be good info to have..
 
I think hard stretch on line, can get some elastic recovery immediately, some hours later, some never.
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I look at elasticity as the more delicate property of rope that can more easily be degraded and strength the more macho and durable element.
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When try to show proper rope alignments not to leverage too hard, it is partially to the imagery of not running the rope as a tool thru wear cycles at higher loading. Just as if using wood or metal devices etc.
 

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