Share some of your tricks with everyone

if you know you got to top the head out of a tree try and leave a couple of stubbs to stand on as you can balance yourself much better than just digging in the spikes,bend the knees and absorb the shock(hopefully not too much).

with a large tool hook set up on your harness you should be able to make a slow 2 handed back cut when topping,turn saw off,hang saw on tool hook (large tool hook makes for quick easy attachment) and brace yourself before the top goes over,without saw bouncing all over the place.combined with above mentioned foot pegs and a decent ropeman,topping is not too bad
 
[ QUOTE ]
I wanna see newguy18's (Fla17) pics of him removing trees that have been dead since he was in 2nd grade.

[/ QUOTE ]

first off,i've turned 20 since i registered here.second theres only been about a half dozen trees i walked away from because i just had a bad feeling about,3 i work alone so i seldom have time or remmeber my camera but just for you,next week i got a 70' pine that got struck by lightning,its been left for 7 years,i'll take a couple pics from aloft.second who the heck is fla 17?I'm not on here alot as it is,like i have time to start another account,i'm sure any mods reading could do an ip check and i'll check out.oh i know how to use snap cuts,but only use them when i have a piece i'm not rigging over a power line or house,etc
 
some stubs to stand on can be helpful, just be careful not too leave stubs that you could get poked by if things go awry, like a kink in the rope locks up the lowering device and the catch is hard. An example is if someone were to leave a handle to hold.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Leaving a branch or many branches below the topping cut, but out of the falling lane can absorb some of the energy of the swaying spar during a top removal. Easier on conifers, but this holds true for dropping the end off of hardwood limbs, too.

----------------------------------------------------------

Any trees with questionable stability can have the reactive force of the top pushing back reduced by climbing it first to remove the top, then lowering down and working your way back up. Sometimes this requires clearing a falling lane down the side of the tree on which the top is to fall.

Hopefully this situation (dead, root rot, fruiting bodies growing out from the base of the tree radially) is entered into with a climbline in another tree or a highline between two trees. I'll use a friction hitch with a rope flipline/ positioning lanyard that doesn't have a stopper knot. If the tree were start to fail, I would hopefully be able to release the friction hitch and slide it off the end of the flipline. I watch the length of the lanyard beyond the friction hitch like hawk so that I don't inadvertently slip the hitch off the flipline.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[...]

Hopefully this situation (dead, root rot, fruiting bodies growing out from the base of the tree radially) is entered into with a climbline in another tree or a highline between two trees. I'll use a friction hitch with a rope flipline/ positioning lanyard that doesn't have a stopper knot. If the tree were start to fail, I would hopefully be able to release the friction hitch and slide it off the end of the flipline. I watch the length of the lanyard beyond the friction hitch like hawk so that I don't inadvertently slip the hitch off the flipline.

[/ QUOTE ]

I do the same, highline, taking the stopper out of my lanyard but I can tell you, from experience, that it's unlikely you will have the time to release your lanyard during the failure. Maybe once everything stops and you're supporting a dead tree with your lanyard you could cut it but you won't be able to release most lanyard adjusters under that much tension.

Guying dead trees is another way to approach the problem.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[...]

Hopefully this situation (dead, root rot, fruiting bodies growing out from the base of the tree radially) is entered into with a climbline in another tree or a highline between two trees. I'll use a friction hitch with a rope flipline/ positioning lanyard that doesn't have a stopper knot. If the tree were start to fail, I would hopefully be able to release the friction hitch and slide it off the end of the flipline. I watch the length of the lanyard beyond the friction hitch like hawk so that I don't inadvertently slip the hitch off the flipline.

[/ QUOTE ]

I do the same, highline, taking the stopper out of my lanyard but I can tell you, from experience, that it's unlikely you will have the time to release your lanyard during the failure. Maybe once everything stops and you're supporting a dead tree with your lanyard you could cut it but you won't be able to release most lanyard adjusters under that much tension.

Guying dead trees is another way to approach the problem.

[/ QUOTE ]


The guying is a good point! Do you guy it three or four directions?

I suppose that the more sketched-out I may be, the more likely that I'll keep my hitch loose and hold on to the flipline, rather than weighting it and locking the hitch down. If figure (from the armchair) that if the hitch isn't locked down, that it will slide free easily from the end of the flipline. Sorta like a prussick for footlocking, unless weighted, it should slide up easily.

I wouldn't use a 540* wrap (I use sometimes on slimy or super smooth bark trees, even with a cinched climbline) around a questionable tree, either.
 
that is the dumbest post i've ever read, well since the last time i read one of holleys. lol hahahahahahaha
applaudit.gif
twak.gif
get a ground man dude. don't be a douche. what will you do if that seven year dead pine decides to come down with you in it? most of the time the roots are the first to go on those so i'm told. somebody needs to be able to call the hospital. oh i forgot you 20 year olds know everything and are bullet and fall proof. yeah thats it i forgot.
crazy.gif
 
re Familytree's tip-
Im lost here, are we talking like the little PVC pads for sliding furniture over carpet, or like the 4 wheeled dolleys, think really wide skateboard with straps attached to ends or sides of board ?
mmmmm I can see perhaps the flat PVC ones being used......ahhhh no, Im lost here on this one, please explain.
Muches Gracia's sir,
-G.
 
[ QUOTE ]

oh i nkow how to use snap cuts,but only use them when i have a piece i'm not rigging over a power line or house,etc

[/ QUOTE ]

On both side of your keyboard there is a button that says "shift", if push that and hold it while pushing a letter button it will capitalize the letter. Try using that at the beginning of each sentence. Not using it shows pure laziness. Hopefully, your treework is not as shoddy.

Secondly, if you work alone all the time I can only assume you snap cut everything, how do you rig without a groundie?

Lastly, you are Fla17. Maybe not on this forum, but you know who you are. I do.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
haha your an idiot i wish tree buzz had editors who scratch stupid comments like that

[/ QUOTE ]

this idiot as you put it has climbed trees that have been dead for over 10 years.I think i'm competent enough to work as i see fit for the situation.

[/ QUOTE ]

Please understand that your actions do not affect only you if you perform them under the title "professional". You are then part of a larger collective according to the legal community and as such effect how this collective is perceived and rated. Insurance companies do not look at us individually but as this collective and thereby establish the risks and therefore their exposure and how much they will charge us.

So, while you may consider yourself to be competent to perform the manual aspects of the job there is much more to being a professional than that.

No man is an island.
 
dude that was funny. you have you moments and when you do i seriously laugh my ___ off. thanks that is funny. man i love hee haw it reminds me of some of my neighbors.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

oh i know how to use snap cuts,but only use them when i have a piece i'm not rigging over a power line or house,etc

[/ QUOTE ]

On both side of your keyboard there is a button that says "shift", if push that and hold it while pushing a letter button it will capitalize the letter. Try using that at the beginning of each sentence. Not using it shows pure laziness. Hopefully, your treework is not as shoddy.

Secondly, if you work alone all the time I can only assume you snap cut everything, how do you rig without a groundie?

Lastly, you are Fla17. Maybe not on this forum, but you know who you are. I do.

[/ QUOTE ]\

I don't know who fla17 is,but its not me,i'm newguy here,and at all the other forums i'm on,As for rigging without a groundie,its rough slow,and tricky but very possible.I usually hang up limbs,then piece them out as they are held by a rope,same with a top.
 
Throw lines, i don't know how i ever lived without them, i'd be handicapped without one now.

Here is what i use my throwline for.

1: The obvious installing climbing lines wether it srt or doubled rope.

2: Instaling cambium savers from the ground

3: Removing hangers

4: setting pulling lines (I do this by throwing from where i want the pulling line to be to the highest crotch i can get then letting the throwbag drop down the other side of the tree, tie on my rope the otherside then pull it up and tie it off at the base of the tree just above felling cut, no need to isolate a limb and tie a running bowline)

5:Retrieving stuck cambium saver from the ground

6: setting up rigging systems/pulleys from the ground

Most of these are obvious to you, I put my list up in the hope some of you can add to it.
 
Who uses a throwline to remove their Ring-and-ring friction saver?


I've been using mine with a fixed side pulley that seems more prone to damage than the rings if it were to come down hard.

How do you attach the throwline to the FS? Is is just tied directly on the FS, so that when the climbline gets pulled out a person can control the descent by letting out their throwline?

I think that I'd misunderstood the technique in the past and attached the throwline to the knotted tail of the climb line, which resulted in the throwline having a lot of drag from wrapping around the trunk.
 
[ QUOTE ]
you can buy actual landing pads but theyre expensive we used them alot when i was on hydro

[/ QUOTE ]

what are the landing pads made from?
Durability?
From Where?

thanks.
 
Southsoundtree there are 2 ways i do this, the first one is in say a tree with tight forks where i'm not 100% sure i'll be able to retrieve it. I take a small throwline mug up the tree with me in the bottom of this mug i'll have an old throwbag to give it a little weight. I'll set my cambium saver as normal then take the end of the throwline from the mug and pass it over a fork a little higher up (doesn't have to be a substantial union in can even be a twig) then tie it on the big ring using a clove hitch. I then drop the mug to the ground, hopefully the groundie can retrieve and put it out of the way ssomewhere. This technique does mean you'll have the throw line hanging in the tree for the durration of the climb which can de annoying. Once on the ground i'll retrieve my FS as normal if it comes out with out the assitance of the throwline then great, if it gets stuck then giving the throwline a tug should lift it out of the fork and allow you to smoothly retrieve it.

The other way is if I haven't set a throwline and its got stuck, or maybe its made it someway down before getting stuck, then i'll use my throwline to get above my FS, it doesn't always need to go through a fork just be above the FS, you then need to get the throwbag to come down the tree followwing exactly the route of your climbing line, this is very important (i've got into the habit of always descending directly below my FS it makes it easy to manipulate the rope and free it) then once you have the throwbag clip a karabiner on it and clip this to your rope pull the throwbag/karabiner back up it should reach the FS and lift it up and free then you can lower it back to you.

Note: Always untie the bag and karabiner from your throwline once you have retrieved your FS you don't want that getting stuck at the end of the day
 
Also can anyone explain the phenomenon of why your Friction saver will get stuck on the last tree of the week on Friday more than any other day of the week?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom