Get a leather tube cambium saver and quit wasting time fiddling about with all that expensive extraneous stuff that gets stuck in every other tree.
jomoco
jomoco
Share some of your tricks with everyone
- Thread starter jodystreeserv3
- Start date
Blasphmey!!!!!
There is no such thing as to much expensive bling
It may seem by my post that i'm forever fishing out stuck friction savers, but we are talking a half dozeen times or so a year given the many hundreds of climbs i may have to do its a small price to pay, and with these tips any stuck saver is not an issue.
Besides the pros outweigh the cons.
There is no such thing as to much expensive bling
It may seem by my post that i'm forever fishing out stuck friction savers, but we are talking a half dozeen times or so a year given the many hundreds of climbs i may have to do its a small price to pay, and with these tips any stuck saver is not an issue.
Besides the pros outweigh the cons.
- Location
- ottawa ontario canada
[/ QUOTE ]what are the landing pads made from?
Durability?
From Where?
thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
i believe you can order them from sherrill or wespur theyre made of hard rubber theyre pretty heavy and they are like 7 ft by 3 ft if you get two thats plenty room we used them for the tires on a bucket so it wouldnt ruin the grass and we used them for drop zones so we wouldnt ruin the grass
Durability?
From Where?
thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
i believe you can order them from sherrill or wespur theyre made of hard rubber theyre pretty heavy and they are like 7 ft by 3 ft if you get two thats plenty room we used them for the tires on a bucket so it wouldnt ruin the grass and we used them for drop zones so we wouldnt ruin the grass
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
[ QUOTE ]
[/ QUOTE ]what are the landing pads made from?
Durability?
From Where?
thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
i believe you can order them from sherrill or wespur theyre made of hard rubber theyre pretty heavy and they are like 7 ft by 3 ft if you get two thats plenty room we used them for the tires on a bucket so it wouldnt ruin the grass and we used them for drop zones so we wouldnt ruin the grass
[/ QUOTE ]
I was at the farm supply store yesterday. Saw rubber stall mats for horses and though, "Hey, those might be good."
Anyone ever try them?
[/ QUOTE ]what are the landing pads made from?
Durability?
From Where?
thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
i believe you can order them from sherrill or wespur theyre made of hard rubber theyre pretty heavy and they are like 7 ft by 3 ft if you get two thats plenty room we used them for the tires on a bucket so it wouldnt ruin the grass and we used them for drop zones so we wouldnt ruin the grass
[/ QUOTE ]
I was at the farm supply store yesterday. Saw rubber stall mats for horses and though, "Hey, those might be good."
Anyone ever try them?
- Location
- ottawa ontario canada
pretty much the same thing i think probably cheaper the ones we had at hydro were like 250$ each they are just nice for those picky customers and soft grass for your truck if you need to pull on the grass to get a cut or whatever
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
The horse stall mats are recycled rubber and vary in thickness, 3/4" or 1" thick, about 3-4
' x 7-8' were about $40-$50. Really heavy.
I though that they could be cut in half and be still be large enough to bomb chunks of wood onto the doubled-up mat. I suppose two full sheets would be big enough to drop a top. I suppose they could also be cut lengthwise and used in the shop at the work benches, then taken into the field for truck tire strips. Could be used when working close to a house/ fence as protection, too.
Seems like it is still likely to have a compressed area, even if doubled up to be 1.5-2" thick, but much better than without. I suppose one could lay one down, sandwich some brush in the middle, and lay another down as the top piece of bread.
What about bounciness?
' x 7-8' were about $40-$50. Really heavy.
I though that they could be cut in half and be still be large enough to bomb chunks of wood onto the doubled-up mat. I suppose two full sheets would be big enough to drop a top. I suppose they could also be cut lengthwise and used in the shop at the work benches, then taken into the field for truck tire strips. Could be used when working close to a house/ fence as protection, too.
Seems like it is still likely to have a compressed area, even if doubled up to be 1.5-2" thick, but much better than without. I suppose one could lay one down, sandwich some brush in the middle, and lay another down as the top piece of bread.
What about bounciness?
- Location
- ottawa ontario canada
no they didnt bounce much if your worried about a piece throw some brush on the mat cover the rubber im a pretty small guy and i was around hydro so i was probably only throwin 15-25 pound pieces from 25-30 ft up and always throw the wood length wise
Tree-Taylor
Branched out member
- Location
- Canada
Looking for extra support while lugging that chainsaw (and your butt) around that tree?
http://www.kunysleather.com/products/detail002.asp?partNo=SP-90
These are $20 at Rona and Home Depot. Despite how they look in the picture, they are actually quite strong and padded. Just for support, not for fall arrest.
http://www.kunysleather.com/products/detail002.asp?partNo=SP-90
These are $20 at Rona and Home Depot. Despite how they look in the picture, they are actually quite strong and padded. Just for support, not for fall arrest.
I didnt read everything so you all might have already seen this but here is one of the bridge configurations i use. you can get a quick extend, multi-tie-in, as well as a floating ring setup, switching form the floating ring to the extension can get trick if you don't want to use you lanyard witch is why I mostly use an adjustable bridge instead of this set up. I will post a few pics
Attachments
- Location
- NW Indiana
I usually attach my rope guide to my ascent line for so that it can be retrieved without crashing to the ground. But that only works when I don't need to move my rope guide to other tie in points. When I need to use multiple tips I wait until I get back to the ground then I throw a throwline in the vicinity of the ropeguide. Afer the throwline is in position I just place a carabiner around my climbing line and pull the throw weight up near the rope guide then when I pull my line to retrieve the rope guide it catches in the carabiner and can be lowered to the ground with the throw line.
[ QUOTE ]
i made a little extender for my piranah so when i decend i can leave my hitch in and it wont get in the way also my piranah takes about 90% of the friction so your not burning out your hitch
[/ QUOTE ]
Im a big fan of this technique if you are using technora you need to preserve it or replace it often. a figure 8 is cheap and last a long long time. I usually install it for my long/speedy descents but have not figured out and efficient way to keep it in the system while working the tree, save spar pole rigging.
i made a little extender for my piranah so when i decend i can leave my hitch in and it wont get in the way also my piranah takes about 90% of the friction so your not burning out your hitch
[/ QUOTE ]
Im a big fan of this technique if you are using technora you need to preserve it or replace it often. a figure 8 is cheap and last a long long time. I usually install it for my long/speedy descents but have not figured out and efficient way to keep it in the system while working the tree, save spar pole rigging.
