Share some of your tricks with everyone

[ QUOTE ]
Always 2 TIPs Jomoco. That way I don't get jerked around...... much...

[/ QUOTE ]

I hate to admit it TH, but I'm a flagrant violator of that particular rule on a regular basis. I like my TIP above as my major support, but my lanyard gets little usage unless for a very specific purpose.

One of the many reasons I don't post more of my takedown vids is that I don't want to teach bad habits to newbie climbers, like all the onehanded cuts I make with my 200, and other assorted scalliwag behavior that could get a newbie hurt.

I leave the teaching to Reg, he's got good habits and much better videography skills than I do.

jomoco
 
I bet, with very little tinkering, you could rig up an old flyfishing reel with fly line that would pay out nice and smooth. I'm thinking one of the reels that has the auto-retrieve feature.

clip biner on rig line before the piece swings away
biner tied to flyline/1.75 zing-it
line spooled on reel
reel attached to saddle/somewhere close by on the tree

I like it
 
[ QUOTE ]
I bet, with very little tinkering, you could rig up an old flyfishing reel with fly line that would pay out nice and smooth. I'm thinking one of the reels that has the auto-retrieve feature.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've got one that is used for pulling lines to let me do a tree to tree traverse. There's no reason why it wouldn't work in your application.

love
nick
 
Dang...another great head-slapper! And, like all head-slappers, it's SO obvious :)

Yesterday I did a cat rescue and [re]learned something...when it's time to put pooter in the carrier or a sack, slide them in tail first. Trying to do it the other way will lead to a fight...the cat will slip the grip...run around and head back up another tree...lesson [re]learned :)
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Always 2 TIPs Jomoco. That way I don't get jerked around...... much...

[/ QUOTE ]

I hate to admit it TH, but I'm a flagrant violator of that particular rule on a regular basis. I like my TIP above as my major support, but my lanyard gets little usage unless for a very specific purpose.

One of the many reasons I don't post more of my takedown vids is that I don't want to teach bad habits to newbie climbers, like all the onehanded cuts I make with my 200, and other assorted scalliwag behavior that could get a newbie hurt.

I leave the teaching to Reg, he's got good habits and much better videography skills than I do.

jomoco

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm the same way,i've been in situations where 2 tie ins would have killed me.Experiance is key in deciding where and how to work the tree.
 
I like having both hands available to work. With the lanyard in place I think through how I'm positioned so I'm not in harms way and then can cut two handed. Takes a bit longer but safe and compliant.

Now to figure out how to video it and sell it or at least get it on here....
 
Following rules can be hard when they infringe on your safety in the tree.

For instance, I'm tagged into the middle leader of a 3 leader tree, and I'm butt hanging the leaders on each side using my nylon loopstraps and a clevis, TIP above lanyard around the leader to be hung, rigging on and back cut made,

But I don't want to hang around on that leader when it catches that load and starts thrashing about, so prior to my finish cut I take my lanyard off that leader, make the finish cut, then float away safely back to the midleader as the butt hung leader settles down and hangs straight down, then I'll float back over and cut the branch free just below the strap, chuck the 2-3 foot log left hanging on the strap, put my straps away, move to the other leader and repeat the process, using only one TIP above at that critical catch point.

Having an escape route if something goes wrong sometimes trumps the 2 TIP rule on many occassions when doing strategic takedowns in my opinion.

jomoco
 
[ QUOTE ]
True enough. There's many ways to get to the same point. Just need to be sure the path you choose isn't the more perilous. Like the guy in Georgia.

[/ QUOTE ]

The least perilous route can change quickly, and a little forethought can potentially save your bacon up top.

For instance, lets use the same scenario as before except that this time floating away from the catch dynamics is for whatever reason more dangerous than staying attached to the leader and riding it out.

In these situations, I never use a wire core lanyard for the specific reason that I can't cut through it with my chainsaw. If for whatever reason the catching leader you're now attached to splits out or fractures under load, you have noway of avoiding being dragged down with the whole mess, unless you're quick enough with your saw to cut that lanyard and free yourself, then deal with the original danger of a perilous route to your TIP's center of gravity without injury.

Better to risk getting hurt than killed when the unexpected leaves you with only two options.

jomoco
 
most my finishing cuts are made with a hand saw (unless its a really big piece) IF something were to happen and i only have 1 second to react ill throw my handsaw and unclip my landyard dont have time for both.
 
[ QUOTE ]
most my finishing cuts are made with a hand saw (unless its a really big piece) IF something were to happen and i only have 1 second to react ill throw my handsaw and unclip my landyard dont have time for both.

[/ QUOTE ]

And a very wise precaution to use Mike.

I get teased alot for brushing out strategic cut and throw leaders with just my handsaw, then snap cutting the wood down with my chainsaw.

When the cutting hand gets uncomfortably close to the holding hand, handsaw usage is very wise indeed.

jomoco
 
One of the reasons I bought the sugoi was to have a faster cutting saw for removals. The chainsaw comes out when it's time to make a big cut. If the top is coming down and it's going to give me a bit of a rough ride then the handsaw is the safest way to go about it.

Safety creates a professional workplace void of the macho attitude that danger is cool.

Nothing better than a professional making things look easy and routine.
 
I kinda chuckle to myself when I hear this never one hand a climbsaw rule, thinking about the things I do routinely that demand onehanded chainsaw use on takedowns as a climber.

When I'm tagged in up top and running out a lateral leader to pop the head off it, I find my cutting spot, wrap my lanyard around the leader once or twice, get the slack out of my bodyline so I'm triangulated securely, and make my undercut.

We all know what happens next. Now if you used both hands on that final cut, when the leader rises as a result of no longer supporting that lateral load, your relationship to your TIP changes your triangulated support in a big way, and few climbers can maintain a balance point on top of that leader as it rises so abruptly.

So rather than looking like an amateur climber left unbalanced and hanging by my lanyard under that rising leader, I maintain my balance point above it by keeping my climbing lines in my left hand and making the final cut with my right hand, then when the leader rises on me, I can adjust for the triangulation changing by taking in the body line slack by bending my left arm, adjusting for the sudden slack change and thus maintain my balance point above the leader, rather than finding a new center of gravity below it like an amateur left hanging.

I wonder what the arbormaster experts do in that all too common situation to keep both hands on their climbsaw?

jomoco
 
Preload the piece so it's pulled up close to the point it'll settle once the tip is cut? Use my handsaw for the back cut? Often it doesn't take much to cut that piece loose.
 
Not trying to be argumentative TH, but I'd love to see a vid of a climber relieving a lateral of a 2-300 pound load with both hands on his climbsaw without ending up hanging under that leader by his lanyard after things settle down, particularly if you're jump cutting the head so it lands flat on the ground.

I'm here to learn like the rest yu know!

jomoco
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom