Rope wrench sheave (pulley) issue

Mowerr said:
Alright I've never done any of that before s I'm gonna look it up and try to do that....but that's gonna take me a week or two to gather the tools and get the time to do it right. But are you thinking it's still usable for a rigging wrench(almost locked sheave)? Or what would you salvage or do with it?
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I'd use it as a rope wrench.
Probably on small diameter lines if I had any, because the friction will be greater.
I would also not be scared to pull it apart and just use a bolt to hold it together. If it's already awry and not the end of the world if it's done, take it apart and see how it should tick and why it isn't.
I am pretty tinkery, though.
You might even be able to press something wedge shaped beside the sheave and center it back up.
 
Like the Spruce Goose it survived its maiden flight, another design came to mind while working on it, so might be the only trial. I used a piece of wood that was going around a knot. The grain goes straight and also angles to the slic pin hole, a branch union would have also worked, if I had thought of it before starting.
 
I do think it's still usable, just more friction on descent, ascent is the same. I mostly use poison ivy 11.7 and the rope still seems to ride in the groove of the sheave...
Though it probably would be better with a 10-11mm rope
 
I've replaced the axle/sheave/bushing on pulleys with nothing but a drill press in less than an hour. You can use a stainless steel bolt, washers and nut for a replacement axle. Choose a bolt with no threads for the width of the internal span of the frame. If it's too long, cut the excess off (flush with the nut) using a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a .045" steel cutting disc after assembly. Smooth off any burrs with a file.

Most hardware stores, like ACE Hardware, etc. will have stainless bolts, brass bushings, etc. and some big box stores carry a decent variety, as well.

In one case, I bought a nice pulley at a garage sale that had a worn out bushing, and I found a roller bearing assembly at a local farm implement dealership that fit after drilling out the sheave's bushing hole slightly larger. It took some looking to find a SS bolt the right length and diameter, but it ended up working very well.
 
JeffGu said:
I've replaced the axle/sheave/bushing on pulleys with nothing but a drill press in less than an hour. You can use a stainless steel bolt, washers and nut for a replacement axle. Choose a bolt with no threads for the width of the internal span of the frame. If it's too long, cut the excess off (flush with the nut) using a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a .045" steel cutting disc after assembly. Smooth off any burrs with a file.

Most hardware stores, like ACE Hardware, etc. will have stainless bolts, brass bushings, etc. and some big box stores carry a decent variety, as well.

In one case, I bought a nice pulley at a garage sale that had a worn out bushing, and I found a roller bearing assembly at a local farm implement dealership that fit after drilling out the sheave's bushing hole slightly larger. It took some looking to find a SS bolt the right length and diameter, but it ended up working very well.
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X2 on JeffGu's thorough advice if you DIY. And use a nyloc nut on the SS bolt.
 
Brocky, I've given thought to having a wooden wrench of some sort as homage to Kevin but his experience with the original 45 degree hole one was eventual failure. Then I considered reinforcement but that kills the purity of the wooden approach. Do you think a homemade hardwood plywood (think oak) would make yours durable and viable? I've thought of doing a 45 degree one with exotic flooring wood or similar but never followed through.

It's kind of like driving and old 60's muscle car, can't hold a candle to modern tech but lots of cool factor.
 
Bart_ said:
Brocky, I've given thought to having a wooden wrench of some sort as homage to Kevin but his experience with the original 45 degree hole one was eventual failure. Then I considered reinforcement but that kills the purity of the wooden approach. Do you think a homemade hardwood plywood (think oak) would make yours durable and viable? I've thought of doing a 45 degree one with exotic flooring wood or similar but never followed through.

It's kind of like driving and old 60's muscle car, can't hold a candle to modern tech but lots of cool factor.
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Lamination is always a viable option for increasing strength.
I'd like a spectraply wrench.
 
Seems like the plywood approach would work. My design could have been made from a single piece, but it was originally going to be more like the Wrench‘s configuration. Hope to make another, simpler, with a slot for midline attaching, and a passive tether attachment.
 
I call it the rope nut. The tether can be affixed at the attach point shown and tended by the pin above the tether. I also find that a bollard of the right size through the center (not shown) can help it "stick" on the rope. This could also be made of laminated wood I believe, rather than the aluminum shown. It looks like magic on rope as it descends with the hitch below. Maybe Kevin should get ISC to make some?
 
How did you brutalise that slic pin so bad? Looks like a used fishing weight. My one concern with the plywood is localized heating and most wood glues don't like heat. I have an idea for that now that I said it out loud, but I've got to stew on it to see if its sensical.
 
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