Rope Wrench Methods?

If you ascend with an ascender your probably carrying it. If you clip it on for the long limbwalks and run a bight through you set up a 3:1 no extra gear very fast.

Honestly though I never find the need for a 3:1. I do a lot more climbing the tree then rope for short ascents. I don't miss body thrusting at all. The very rare occasion I climb ddrt I find body thrusting time consuming with having to tend all that extra rope. When body thrusting your using upper body strength when climbing the tree you use your legs much more efficient and your using your stronger muscles.

I try to make the long limb walks the very last part of my climb so I can just drop off and hit the ground. No need to work back in.
 
One last thing if you use redirects you avoid long limb walks. Its probably the thing I like most about srt. The ability to do amazing redirects and vastly improve your rope angles.

Srt takes a whole new way of thinking to be used to full efficiency.
 
I wouldnt call it body thrusting if ive got a pulley saver installed.more hand over hand,no thrusting about it.I also use the pantin and my arms going up ddrt system,really easy with a pulley installed.I agree with Jeff these days,im more about getting it done and going home early.
 
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why would you not put a small hitch on the standing part of the line as you are about to descend the sloping branch and the clip the tail into the hitch with a revolver and clip the other part of the tail to you saddle with a dog snap or another revolver; when ascending back up said drooper then unclip the rope from your saddle and use the three to one to haul your fat azz back up the limb, all while tending your slack at the same time?

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Hell yes, Jeff Cochran.
Best words of advice I have heard on TreeBuzz in a long time. Especially the last two points.

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Yea I was thinking this technique as well because of Taylor's CElanyard video. The same concept is used in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-LSbQfNCNU

Starts at 2:27

Just us a revolver instead of a thimble...
 
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One last thing if you use redirects you avoid long limb walks. Its probably the thing I like most about srt. The ability to do amazing redirects and vastly improve your rope angles.

Srt takes a whole new way of thinking to be used to full efficiency.

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just read this whole thread. I have been srt 99% of the time for the last three years and your statement says it all. I am hardly ever doing the crazy limb walks I used to do in ddrt and yes it did require an entire rethink of how I strategize my climb, which now comes natural. However there are plenty of climbers that are way better than I am and they choose to climb ddrt, so I guess it's whatever works best for you and makes the climb more productive. I always climb with the idea of getting the work done as fast and safely as possible. I never hang out in a tree to be fancy with a particular style. Hell it's too hot here for that.
 
As I was watching TMLs video on the C lanyard I thought it would be cool if DMN could make a one sided pulley like Regs Coats uses for his lowering device, but make a small one for the hall back method on lanyards or mechanical advantage for climbing. Maybe it’s a little better than a revolver?
 
On that pulley that I’m thinking about. Maybe you could make a quick release clip so your rope won’t fall out as you are climbing. Or a carabineer with the wheel of the Micro pulley with small side plates so the rope fits on the wheel without getting jammed. And make the top part small enough to fit through the bottom part of a hand ascender or small friction hitch.
 
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As I was watching TMLs video on the C lanyard I thought it would be cool if DMN could make a one sided pulley like Regs Coats uses for his lowering device, but make a small one for the hall back method on lanyards or mechanical advantage for climbing. Maybe it’s a little better than a revolver?

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On that pulley that I’m thinking about. Maybe you could make a quick release clip so your rope won’t fall out as you are climbing. Or a carabineer with the wheel of the Micro pulley with small side plates so the rope fits on the wheel without getting jammed. And make the top part small enough to fit through the bottom part of a hand ascender or small friction hitch.

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FWIW: There's a YouTube video of how you can modify a micro-pulley that fits your description ... and a vid if of it in use.
 
I was just thinking it would be a lot more simple if they could make a small rope grab with the pulley wheel attached. Everything all in one. That would be the fastest hall back system. But I’m not sure that any of the hall back systems will even work in this application? I just got back from the yard and was playing around with some things and was thinking, a hall back system may be out of reach, not sure?
 
I kinda like Jeff C's idea, install a prussik just above the wrench, keep it there, nice and loose.

then on a limbwalk, set it, clip a revolver or pulley on it, clip your tail in, go out, come back and over hand :)

Or to move up ,loosen a bit and push it up as far as you can, clip your tail in, hand over hand the short 5-6', the prussik could stay on the line the whole climb, ya know?
 
I don't have much of a problem coming back in from limbwalks. If its some crazy limb, I'll try to redirect and just come down on it. Most the time though I have no problem with it. Actually improved my limbwalking when I switched to SRT. Just the constant friction and being able to hold onto the rope for balance and tend slack at the same time, where as in DdRT I would grab both ropes for balance, walk in a bit, have to grab the running end and tend slack, rinse and repeat. Just so much simpler with SRT.

And as for going up short stints, just clip in a pantin and go to town. No need for the lanyard over the shoulder. Just grab above the wrench for balance, stand on the pantin, one hand to hold self upright, other hand to slide the hitch and wrench up, and either hold weight and lift foot or sit in hitch and repeat as needed. And thats only when I can't climb the tree.

Also, like others have mentioned, when you feel you need that 3:1 on a limbwalk or whatever, just pop in the hand ascender most people carry up on ascent of the SRT climb, clip into the biner, capture your tail at your saddle, and you're good to go. This is how it was first shown to me before the wrench, when it was just the F8 system. No need to add extra gear to the system.

The loose prussic above the wrench would just create too many problems in my mind. You have tie it loose enough to follow you, its another piece of hardware that can get caught in crotchs or limbs and hang you up. Either use an ascender to pop on and off or just tie the prussic every time you want to use it.
 
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I don't have much of a problem coming back in from limbwalks. If its some crazy limb, I'll try to redirect and just come down on it. Most the time though I have no problem with it. Actually improved my limbwalking when I switched to SRT. Just the constant friction and being able to hold onto the rope for balance and tend slack at the same time, where as in DdRT I would grab both ropes for balance, walk in a bit, have to grab the running end and tend slack, rinse and repeat. Just so much simpler with SRT.

And as for going up short stints, just clip in a pantin and go to town. No need for the lanyard over the shoulder. Just grab above the wrench for balance, stand on the pantin, one hand to hold self upright, other hand to slide the hitch and wrench up, and either hold weight and lift foot or sit in hitch and repeat as needed. And thats only when I can't climb the tree.

Also, like others have mentioned, when you feel you need that 3:1 on a limbwalk or whatever, just pop in the hand ascender most people carry up on ascent of the SRT climb, clip into the biner, capture your tail at your saddle, and you're good to go. This is how it was first shown to me before the wrench, when it was just the F8 system. No need to add extra gear to the system.

The loose prussic above the wrench would just create too many problems in my mind. You have tie it loose enough to follow you, its another piece of hardware that can get caught in crotchs or limbs and hang you up. Either use an ascender to pop on and off or just tie the prussic every time you want to use it.

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Mr. B taught you well young padawan....;)
 
I, Like Adrian aggree that even when I was climbing on dDRT, I would climb with an SRT style. grabbing both legs of the rope and pull myself up the rope 1:1. This is awkward because to tend the slack you have to figure out which leg to let go of to tend. I truly think certain styles of climbing and certain situations lend themselves to different systems. One thing I have been playing around with is using a fat line. 1/2 double braid sold as a rigging line. Its a little heavy but it is a pleasure to swing around on and my hitch really likes it. doesn't work with the pantin so well but footlocking is cake. Just another thing to play with.
 
I got an ART positioner and used it with the rope wrench. It worked but it basically needs to be a spider jack. I was able to use the positiion but I definitely burnt my gloves on descent because the positioner provides no additional friction on descent. It needs to be a spiderjack with a wood friction adder built in. I would like to know what a spiderjack does with a wrench. Anyone? Low and slow only please.
 
Do you mean lockjack in the first part of your post and spiderjack in the last question of your post? Because I would like someone on here to answer that question...is the spiderjack okay to use with the rope wrench? It may have been answered already, but would someone direct me to that info..

Thanks,
Ken
 
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