Pine branch isolation

Doh! This conversation is going to save me so much time. I tangled two throw balls in these sycamore trees, wasting so much time just to get a few dead widow makers, and never considered putting my ddrt on a pulley and single line just to get started and up and working.
f63e81b93f0a512a6ead5b6edd8eb91b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My favorite way to approach a pine removal, especially white pine, is to tie high into another tree adjacent to it (preferably a big White Oak ;-) ). Then spike and flip my way up clearing limbs or advance up my line and swing over to the first limbs. If I can minimize my self and my gears contact with pine I do it, damn sappy bitches!
If no other tree is around and the pine has no vines in it I will spike and flip and when cutting I choke my climb line with a steel biner around the trunk or a limb. Sometimes it's just faster to not start with the throwball. Every other species, I will start with a high tie in.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/climbing-conifers.13846/

Magnum, I posted a similar thread back in 2009. It's pretty incredible to see how mainstream SRT has become since then, must be really cool for all the Tom Dunlaps out there that have be using it for decades.

Like Steve said, the tree species and structure will dictate your set up. On a white or red pine you might be able to get a decent isolated limb by double bagging it. If you haven't seen it, check out slick tricks in the articles section. On a fir or white spruce a base anchor might be a good option as they're generally thicker and will be more difficult to isolate. Blue spruce.....personally on a dense conifer, unless rigging or speedline anchor needs to be set, I'll spur up or tie into another tree. I hate the spruce rash! If you choke your climbing line around the stem and give yourself just a little slack you can spur up flipping your flipline and climbing line at the same time. It takes practice but it works really well once you get the flick down. Works best with an SRT device so you can decend on a single line.

What you described on the last page sounds like a good plan!
 
I would like to speed line some but not sure if that is viable or needed option. I feel like my hitch hiker make be a very handy tool to use on this removal. My only concern is this is a very large pine (for this area) and after watching the likes of Mr Coates and Hunicke I don't want to feel like a noob for not having a climb line already set.
 
When I was apprenticing, the rule was never isolate on a single limb in conifers. Multiples or around the stem. depending on the tree and distance to the first limbs I've put it around a few, ascended Ddrt, limbed as I went, adjust the rope around limbs that are between the two parts of the line. This is on a prune. removals I generally don't set a line but will work mine up using a throw ball to gain some height.
 
Magnum783 said:
I would like to speed line some but not sure if that is viable or needed option. I feel like my hitch hiker make be a very handy tool to use on this removal. My only concern is this is a very large pine (for this area) and after watching the likes of Mr Coates and Hunicke I don't want to feel like a noob for not having a climb line already set.
Click to expand...
I have definitely just spiked up a pine without cutting (handsaw only), lead climbing with alternating lanyard and climb line or 2 in 1 lanyard, to a suitable tie in/ rigging point (slide line or block/ ring set up). And, only then ask for the power saw. This also can be faster then throwline.

Depends on the tree really, like Connelly said.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
It also depends on exactly what has to happen in the tree. If I'm just gonna blast out a top and not limb the tree I'll rarely set a climbing line. Usually it depends on multiple factors. Ivy, lean, obstacles and trunk size. One of the downfalls of climbing on the sidewinder is the pliable lanyard. It doesn't lend itself to an easy climb on a large trunk like a steel core does. If she's fat I almost always tie in befor I go up and then take advantage of the spikecender.
 
Magnum783 said:
So as a whole do you guys set a line before a pine or just carry it with you....
Click to expand...

My APTA with a lazer sight has spoiled me and lets me set a line with unbelievable precision and speed. Always my first choice. But if for whatever reason setting a safe high line looks like it will be a problem, I just spur up with a flip-line and a climbing line choked using a steel carabiner.
 
The most important thing to think about while climbing and life in general is T.I.T.S : TIE IN TWICE STUPID! hahaha

depending on the tree and task at hand,
Option A: is to tie into an adjacent tree.... this option can be a curse or a blessing depending on the relative location of the tie in point and the climber.
Option B: ill shoot a throwline over several large limbs and secure a base anchor.
Option C: I will tie in just above my lanyard(s) and move my tie in point as I spike up the tree.

If I have to blow out the top of a skinny pine, ill use a modernized version of 'four inch tie-in system' with a base anchor and a ISC D2. with gear i'm a 200lb nancy , So I tend to use this on anything between 4 - 8 inches.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom