Morbark chipper

Good paint job.

For the Morbark, coming close on the paint will be tough, but a rattle can that is close to the color looks better over rust than rust, until you get it done right.


You want quality blades, not cheap blades. Three sets is optimal. Two sets is almost requisite. Blade-sharpening turn-around is often 1-2 weeks for me.

Check your anvil condition and gap.

Check everything your can for tightness, from engine cover bolts to oil pan bolts, if you can.
 
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southsoundtree said:
Good paint job.

For the Morbark, coming close on the paint will be tough, but a rattle can that is close to the color looks better over rust than rust, until you get it done right.


You want quality blades, not cheap blades. Three is optimal. Two is almost requiste. Blade turn around is often 1-2 weeks for me.

Check your anvil condition and gap.

Check everything your can for tightness, from engine cover bolts to oil pan bolts, if you can.
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Morbark sells shaker cans of paint
 
southsoundtree said:
Good paint job.

For the Morbark, coming close on the paint will be tough, but a rattle can that is close to the color looks better over rust than rust, until you get it done right.


You want quality blades, not cheap blades. Three is optimal. Two is almost requiste. Blade turn around is often 1-2 weeks for me.

Check your anvil condition and gap.

Check everything your can for tightness, from engine cover bolts to oil pan bolts, if you can.
Click to expand...
Good idea I need to check every bolt cause I've noticed some loose ones. As for the anvil it looks ok but when I put on new blades I'm gonna adjust it if it needs it
 
VenasNursery said:
Morbark sells shaker cans of paint
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The paint fades terribly. I've been told by a signmaker that red is the worst color for fading.

I suggest taking the chipper or a panel to the paint store. Find something similar. Buy one can, test in the parking lot.

If you have the time to prep the rust, much better. You'll have to do it at some time.

IDK about rust-coverters. POR15 is one product I've heard of. A sandpaper flapwheel is meant to blow paint and rust off quickly. Use a respirator.
 
Do you want it "Ok" or "right"?

Look at a saw really quickly, and it may Look sharp, but...

You can flip some anvils to four fresh surfaces.

Pictures or a manual reference helps.

Check with Morbark for a manual.

Vermeer allows online manual access with a serial number. Morbark may have similar.



Knife and anvil bolts have a limited lifetime. Ask Morbark for factory specs. Bandit specifies a certain number of knife changes (stretching and relaxing of the metal in the bolts with torquing and loosening).
 
Ok thanks that's some good info I hope I can just flip the anvil but I'll do whatever it takes so it's right, gotta have it chipping correctly or it's just to slow. Plus it's hard on the machine itself
 
southsoundtree said:
Good paint job.

For the Morbark, coming close on the paint will be tough, but a rattle can that is close to the color looks better over rust than rust, until you get it done right.


You want quality blades, not cheap blades. Three sets is optimal. Two sets is almost requisite. Blade-sharpening turn-around is often 1-2 weeks for me.

Check your anvil condition and gap.

Check everything your can for tightness, from engine cover bolts to oil pan bolts, if you can.
Click to expand...
My chipper states wear greater than 1/8 radius, but I flip a little before that. Think of it as a set of hand pruners,
 
I don't mean to brag, and maybe I'm gifted with an angle grinder and flap wheel, but one nice thing about the eager beaver is it has just two blades. Its easy to match them up in size and keep them straight if you have a few simple tools. It takes me 30 minutes tops to sharpen my chipper blades with an angle grinder, no burning the steel, edge holds almost as well as a new blade. I had the same set of blades on what was then my only chipper for over 4 years. They are still on it, but I got a second chipper last year. That one set of blades did around 1 million dollars worth of work. Oh yeah, we don't throw rocks and garbage in our chipper.
If I had a 4 blade chipper, I might keep a spare set of blades around and send the dull ones out... maybe.
 
That looks very similar to our first chipper. One thing we found was that because of the angled and sloped guard behind the feed wheels, which guides the brush into the chipper wheel, we would have to feed curved limbs in so the curve swept to the right. Basically, if a limb didn’t feed we would flip it over and typically it would feed right in. Looks like a good buy for under $4000. The colars on the feed wheels that go on the motor splines tend to wear out, so you might have to replace one or both of those every once in a while. Hope it works well for you.
 
Nathanael said:
That looks very similar to our first chipper. One thing we found was that because of the angled and sloped guard behind the feed wheels, which guides the brush into the chipper wheel, we would have to feed curved limbs in so the curve swept to the right. Basically, if a limb didn’t feed we would flip it over and typically it would feed right in. Looks like a good buy for under $4000. The colars on the feed wheels that go on the motor splines tend to wear out, so you might have to replace one or both of those every once in a while. Hope it works well for you.
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Yeah I've already noticed that since I've been chipping with it but it runs really well. I'm used to newer bigger chippers with the companies I've worked for but I'm happy with the buy it gets the job done
 
RBJtree said:
I don't mean to brag, and maybe I'm gifted with an angle grinder and flap wheel, but one nice thing about the eager beaver is it has just two blades. Its easy to match them up in size and keep them straight if you have a few simple tools. It takes me 30 minutes tops to sharpen my chipper blades with an angle grinder, no burning the steel, edge holds almost as well as a new blade. I had the same set of blades on what was then my only chipper for over 4 years. They are still on it, but I got a second chipper last year. That one set of blades did around 1 million dollars worth of work. Oh yeah, we don't throw rocks and garbage in our chipper.
If I had a 4 blade chipper, I might keep a spare set of blades around and send the dull ones out... maybe.
Click to expand...
Yeah I may try grinding the set that's in there now I just bought a new set cause one side of the looks like they were chipping rocks so I may send them out this first round and I'm sure I can get a good edge on there with a grinder myself. Hopefully it will go smoothly.
 
I used to drop off blades at two different Ace Hardware stores, before using this builder's supply. Those sharpening services charged $1/ inch
Ask if they sharpen Planer Blades. Chipper blades are the same thing on a different machine, I think, as far as sharpening.

A pro sharpening service will know what they can/ can't do.




I'd like to see the flap-wheel sharpening method on video.

I touch up with a manual sharpener like this...https://www.amleo.com/aml-knife-and...wzvfhY0FvLmlptKEV-TPmeuxrCgQ7P9waAozfEALw_wcB
 
evo said:
What paint did you use, and what degreaser?
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Use any good degreaser to remove visible oil/grease.

But use prepsol prior to paint with wax-on wax-off method with rag in each hand (one to apply prepsol, clean rag to wipe dry).
 
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