Rooted.Tree.Solutions
Branched out member
- Location
- Elkhart, IN
The only time we charge a fee for quoting work is if they are far away or if they’re an HOA. We charge HOA’s $250 to come quote their trees because they are so difficult to work for.
How would you prune this tree
- Thread starter climbingmonkey24
- Start date
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Just take the damn test. It’s easy to keep up with the CEU’s? Do you have documentation of safety meetings? Boom one ceu.
Basically 1 ceu = one hour class time.. 10 multiple choice questions = .5 ceu’s. More often than not two answers are obviously wrong, and by default if you have half a brain odds are you will get most right.
I hate that it’s this time watered down but you can take ‘Arborist news’ quizzes.. I always challenge the test before I read the article! Most all the time I easily get the passing score for a 1/2-full ceu. You just need 30 in 3 years, it’s no sweat really.
And HELL Yes Charge for what you know, a cert is just and only that. Working experience is the most valuable, and you certainly have that. Worse case you might learn something to better your service.
Mick Dempsey
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- France
Me too.
I insist my clients complete a series of tasks before they can even gaze on my face, then they have to spend 7 years in a Tibetan monastery before I’ll consider working at their property.
Once there they have to avoid eye contact and throw petals at my feet as I pass…..
climbingmonkey24
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- United States
But you just said earlier in the thread that if a tradesman ever tried “educating” you they’d be in the truck and off the property in less than 60 seconds.
Don’t you think that’s kind of contradictory if you’re making your clients throw petals at your feet and have to avoid looking directly at you?
Mick Dempsey
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- France
It’s not education, it’s dharma.
As for pruning the middle aged maple that has never been pruned, the way I would write it up/perform work
Crown reduction with goal of managing size
System: Natural
Specs:
- Slight end reduction of scaffold limbs( lower and middle portion of canopy)
-Reduction of upper canopy with goal of getting light to reduced scaffold limbs to encourage interior growth ( try to get some healthy laterals to prune back to in future pruning cycles)
-Remove dead wood
- Remove/reduce load on any defects
- Avoid removal cuts on main stem and scaffold limbs as this species is not good compatmentalizer
- quick touch up with pole pruner for aesthetics
Research in recent years has indicated June(growing season) is good time to prune maple trees
Crown reduction with goal of managing size
System: Natural
Specs:
- Slight end reduction of scaffold limbs( lower and middle portion of canopy)
-Reduction of upper canopy with goal of getting light to reduced scaffold limbs to encourage interior growth ( try to get some healthy laterals to prune back to in future pruning cycles)
-Remove dead wood
- Remove/reduce load on any defects
- Avoid removal cuts on main stem and scaffold limbs as this species is not good compatmentalizer
- quick touch up with pole pruner for aesthetics
Research in recent years has indicated June(growing season) is good time to prune maple trees
Serf Life
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Maine Island
Cool, source?
I have a shallow understanding of it( still working on it) but has to do with non structural carbs being available which is essential for tree to occlude wound quickly. Lindsey Purcell has a video available on treestuff website where he names reseachers from past (possibly misinterpreted by our industry ) research as well as recent more inclusive research projects(greater diversity of species)
I believe webinar title is
“Late Season Pruning “
climbhightree
Branched out member
- Location
- Lebanon, Pa USA
Depending on external thickness and internal limbs, I feel you did the right thing on this job. I usually say reduction should start once the tree reaches the desired size, not after. That way you can keep your cuts small, and start training the tree to maintain size. But if the tree is overly thick and minimal interior limbs, doing a thinning is a good first step. Especially if never pruned before, as you said. We usually do our thinning and/or reducing on a 3-5 year schedule...especially on younger trees. Some try to get me to come out yearly, or every other year, but we refuse. We will go look at it, but if too early we will not redo it.
I feel that Crimson maples can be one of the harder trees to properly reduce, because they often don't have a lot of interior limbs, other than suckers.
As to bidding, educating, consulting etc. That is a rough one. We give free quote, but we will charge for consultation...though I'm not sure if we ever actually have. There definitely have been cases where I wish I would have, especially when my words and suggestions were obviously given to another company and acted on, but is life. When appointment is setup the consultation vs free quote is discussed if it seems like it may be an issue. I personally don't feel that giving my direct (non traq) opinion on the tree, from a quick visual observation, and then answering what I would do if my tree is a consultation. When I show up to bid the customer has a set goal or reason for calling me. I make a direct point to ask what are their goals for this work and future goals for the tree. Then I prepare a proposal to help reach those goals while being a CA and following ansi pruning specs etc. If they want it topped I explain why we won't do it. If they insist, we walk away. If they want it reduced, I ask by how much and then explain how much I am willing to reduce it (ca and ansi). Majority of the customers I've met with, in my 20 years as a CA and in business, very few have decided to go ahead with topping or a hard reduction.
I feel if you leave a customer better inform/educated than when you showed up you are bettering the Arborist field, whether they go with your company or not.
So once again I think you did the right thing. I would probably be following up in a year or 2 to start the reduction (maintain tree size) cuts. I have trees that I have been going this to for a long long time.
I feel that Crimson maples can be one of the harder trees to properly reduce, because they often don't have a lot of interior limbs, other than suckers.
As to bidding, educating, consulting etc. That is a rough one. We give free quote, but we will charge for consultation...though I'm not sure if we ever actually have. There definitely have been cases where I wish I would have, especially when my words and suggestions were obviously given to another company and acted on, but is life. When appointment is setup the consultation vs free quote is discussed if it seems like it may be an issue. I personally don't feel that giving my direct (non traq) opinion on the tree, from a quick visual observation, and then answering what I would do if my tree is a consultation. When I show up to bid the customer has a set goal or reason for calling me. I make a direct point to ask what are their goals for this work and future goals for the tree. Then I prepare a proposal to help reach those goals while being a CA and following ansi pruning specs etc. If they want it topped I explain why we won't do it. If they insist, we walk away. If they want it reduced, I ask by how much and then explain how much I am willing to reduce it (ca and ansi). Majority of the customers I've met with, in my 20 years as a CA and in business, very few have decided to go ahead with topping or a hard reduction.
I feel if you leave a customer better inform/educated than when you showed up you are bettering the Arborist field, whether they go with your company or not.
So once again I think you did the right thing. I would probably be following up in a year or 2 to start the reduction (maintain tree size) cuts. I have trees that I have been going this to for a long long time.
