no lie, that's slick.
hitchhiker 2 versus HHx
- Thread starter Kandelero
- Start date
Phil
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Oak Lawn, IL
The holster just gets in the way more than anything. The rope tender I bought but since it's not load bearing, one could be made out of any number of cordages.
Attachments
Exactly what Rico said. Picture that ring on a rope bridge, and tend right on the ring. This is a pic I saved that @DSMc has posted a few times before. I impulsively wanted to tend the device from the biner or somewhere further up on the device itself too but it’s totally not necessary. Tending from the bridge ring under the device to chest harness or neck tether lifts it along nicely. Dave’s using a Petzl Fixe (I think), Rico has one from CT, mine is made by Camp, people use a Pinto sometimes.
Try it
Try it
Phil
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Oak Lawn, IL
why and how is your stuff so damn shiny?
JMerritt
Branched out member
- Location
- santa cruz
I really want to see some way to keep the stopper knot tied and install /remove it from the dogbone. I thought maybe you could milk one side into the shape of a tuning fork and cross drill it for a small slic pin. Another idea was to cut a slot just wide enough to squeeze the prussic in and out. Make the hole big enough for a flange bushing to fit the hole but it’s too big to fit the slot. This would allow the cord to be threaded through the bushing and tied, then you wrap your preferred hitch and pull the bushing down below the dogbone. Press the cord in through the slot and pull the bushing up into the hole. Now you have the bushing locked into the dogbone and the hitch wants to pull it up and keep it there. You’d have to beef up the bone of course if your going to go cutting slots in it.
Maybe a removable ferrule that clamps on the cord under the dog bone. Pull the cord through to your desired length/tension after tying your hitch and clamp/crimp. I know cable and rope ferrules exist but don't know of a reusable version that is life support rated. Put that inventor's brain to use!
Tom Lynch
New member
- Location
- Brockville
How long does it take to untie and tie a stopper? Sure it is annoying but worth adding complexity and cost? For me no. If I was to do it I'd do a bigger U channel with a cross-drilled hole, for a slic pin to capture the stopper.
@Brocky You solution likely is the most eloquent. As per normal... haha.
@Brocky You solution likely is the most eloquent. As per normal... haha.
JMerritt
Branched out member
- Location
- santa cruz
What I found most annoying about having to tie and untie the stopper knot ( besides the knot cinching down and being a pain to get loose) was having to retune he perfect length of hitch every time.
The dog bone with a stopper knotted hitch cord, is a simple and bomb proof design. It goes well with what the HH represents in the multicenter category.
The time it takes to tie it and get it adjusted is inconsequential when measured against what it does. Keeping the hitch short and simple will also increase speed and repeatability.
The time it takes to tie it and get it adjusted is inconsequential when measured against what it does. Keeping the hitch short and simple will also increase speed and repeatability.
John@TreeXP
Branched out member
- Location
- Bainbridge Island
Perhaps one solution would be to swap out the hitch cord for a mechanical zigzag-like prusik. It would make the HH non-midline-attachable though, unless someone invents a midline-attachable mechanical prusik or is able to merge something like Thompson Tool's new Hipster as prusik replacement on the HH.
Last edited:
Is it possible to stuff a spliced eye through the dog bone and then capture the eye with a biner or anything else to prevent it from getting pulled back through?
