hitchhiker 2 versus HHx

John@TreeXP

Well-Known Member
I have a plan to design and machine my own version of the HH one day... (this winter I hope). With a pulley built into the body, a slick pin in place of the 'beainer (a tapered notch on the inside of the cheek like the new RRP, to release the pin) and a swivel built in conjunction to the Quicky style connector. (Imagine two quickies had a baby with the last image.) Still lots of development and redesigns to go. I'm a machinist by trade and found a shop that will let me play this winter :cool: Solving some of the minor quality of life issues I have with stacking a pinto and swivel. The idea would be to have a full feature system in the shortest stack height possible. While having one point to undo for ponytail redirects and nothing to drop. Right now fighting to clip a 'beainer onto a swivel while holding the pinto just right is a major P.I.T.A! While I'm at it I'll stamp and bend up a cleaner tending point, the one I have is not too far off my ideal design.

(Using a regular quicky leads too many problems in my experience. For sure need one with longer arms, to prevent binding.)
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For the cleanest setup, we'll need to invent and tree-quickie with a swivel, with a way cool name of some sort? There are swiveling shackles, but nothing using a slic pin. Maybe add a tending point on there too.
 

Jonny

Well-Known Member
Location
Buffalo
Exactly what Rico said. Picture that ring on a rope bridge, and tend right on the ring. This is a pic I saved that @DSMc has posted a few times before. I impulsively wanted to tend the device from the biner or somewhere further up on the device itself too but it’s totally not necessary. Tending from the bridge ring under the device to chest harness or neck tether lifts it along nicely. Dave’s using a Petzl Fixe (I think), Rico has one from CT, mine is made by Camp, people use a Pinto sometimes.
Try it :)
13FA4CD7-B915-4795-A168-F3C3E257AF30.jpeg
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
If you do decide to try a Fix type pulley, take the time to adjust the side plates so they grip your bridge ring. A snug fit that allows it to stay on when you let go makes getting things together and apart much less fiddly. 20150409_100116-2.jpg
 

rico

Well-Known Member
Location
redwoods
First is the fact that I have a lot of shiny new gear around here. Secondly, and more importantly, is the fact that I don't actually climb or work with trees. I just hoard the aforementioned shiny new gear!
 

Jonny

Well-Known Member
Location
Buffalo
I want Dave’s mirror polished HH2.
Maybe I’ll order a bottle of Brasso and have at it on a slow night shift.
 

JMerritt

Well-Known Member
Location
santa cruz
I really want to see some way to keep the stopper knot tied and install /remove it from the dogbone. I thought maybe you could milk one side into the shape of a tuning fork and cross drill it for a small slic pin. Another idea was to cut a slot just wide enough to squeeze the prussic in and out. Make the hole big enough for a flange bushing to fit the hole but it’s too big to fit the slot. This would allow the cord to be threaded through the bushing and tied, then you wrap your preferred hitch and pull the bushing down below the dogbone. Press the cord in through the slot and pull the bushing up into the hole. Now you have the bushing locked into the dogbone and the hitch wants to pull it up and keep it there. You’d have to beef up the bone of course if your going to go cutting slots in it.
 

Njdelaney

Well-Known Member
Location
Detroit
Maybe a removable ferrule that clamps on the cord under the dog bone. Pull the cord through to your desired length/tension after tying your hitch and clamp/crimp. I know cable and rope ferrules exist but don't know of a reusable version that is life support rated. Put that inventor's brain to use!
 

Tom Lynch

Active Member
Location
Brockville
How long does it take to untie and tie a stopper? Sure it is annoying but worth adding complexity and cost? For me no. If I was to do it I'd do a bigger U channel with a cross-drilled hole, for a slic pin to capture the stopper.

@Brocky You solution likely is the most eloquent. As per normal... haha.
 

JMerritt

Well-Known Member
Location
santa cruz
How long does it take to untie and tie a stopper? Sure it is annoying but worth adding complexity and cost? For me no. If I was to do it I'd do a bigger U channel with a cross-drilled hole, for a slic pin to capture the stopper.

@Brocky You solution likely is the most eloquent. As per normal... haha.
What I found most annoying about having to tie and untie the stopper knot ( besides the knot cinching down and being a pain to get loose) was having to retune he perfect length of hitch every time.
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
The dog bone with a stopper knotted hitch cord, is a simple and bomb proof design. It goes well with what the HH represents in the multicenter category.

The time it takes to tie it and get it adjusted is inconsequential when measured against what it does. Keeping the hitch short and simple will also increase speed and repeatability.
 

John@TreeXP

Well-Known Member
Perhaps one solution would be to swap out the hitch cord for a mechanical zigzag-like prusik. It would make the HH non-midline-attachable though, unless someone invents a midline-attachable mechanical prusik or is able to merge something like Thompson Tool's new Hipster as prusik replacement on the HH.
 
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Is it possible to stuff a spliced eye through the dog bone and then capture the eye with a biner or anything else to prevent it from getting pulled back through?
 

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