Hitch hiker/2/x thread

Banyan man

New Member
Location
Minnetonka
Does the biner on the terminating end conflict with the hh2 at all? It looks kind of like the two biners would hit together at the bottom and hold themselves apart at the top.
I didn’t try it that way. I totally hear what you are saying, seems cluttered. I never liked trapping a pinto as I disconnect all the time. Seemed like a simple solution.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
I didn’t try it that way. I totally hear what you are saying, seems cluttered. I never liked trapping a pinto as I disconnect all the time. Seemed like a simple solution.
I too often disconnect for redirects and stuff and putting the pinto on in tree is a pain. I just picked up a fixe pulley on the recommendation earlier in this thread, but I don't suppose it fixes the reconnecting troubles.
 

rustykfd

Active Member
Location
Pasco
Also, mine has screws, not rivets.
@rustykfd did a little mod on his, he took out the 4 lower screws, countersunk the holes a teensy bit and put machine screws in it that seat flush with the body so he could use a bow shackle. It has to be easier than fighting the slick pin.
Pic is his from when he sold it, maybe he’ll see this and comment how it worked for him.
View attachment 61827

This did work well with the shackle. It was a little work to find the right shackle, I think I ended up getting it from Wespur. I never tried a slick pin.

I did previously switch from the steel biner that the HH2 comes with to a different rounded steel biner, that tended better than the stock one.

I hope this answers a couple questions.

I’m flying a BDB now.

I prefer the HH2 over a Hitch Climber/Rope wrench setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Joeybagodonuts

Well-Known Member
Location
Boondocks
Especially on SRT, I think the new versions of the ZZs are more heavy duty and better suited for tree work, with or without the built-in swivel. The earlier versions just seem more rickety in comparison.
Yes, that's what I'm specifically taking about, SRT, the rest of the time I'm 100% cool with the swivel's position.. it don't even cross my mind. Yes the "original" version was not as beefy.. if you jump a generation & see the newest 2-3 hole design, it has been totally updated. The swivel has either been moved a tad, given enough room, or placed in such a way that it can fully articulate & be used SRT without ending up leveraged against something.

Personally, I'd go with the 3 hole design & hopefully gain some headspace..

But! I just bought this uber versitile HHX instead so hopefully l'll never need spend another dime on gadgets!!!! Right? Right?

I’d climb on those worn ones all day probably, that doesn’t look like much wear at all. Maybe I’m missing something looking through my little phone.
Still, good on CMI for being perfectionists.

Cali is on my wishlist. I got a couple Rooks, and like them, but glides a little too well sometimes.
Exactly.. me too.. I don't think your missing anything..
Note where that notice says it's not a notice to discontinue use..
Yet i guarantee there's a gaggle of Insta-Arbs clammering for refunds or free exchanges, probably the same ones who caused the hysteria about it in the first place & halted production..
Note to public -"Send all CMI California Swivels with two days of real use.. or more, to Joeybagodonuts!"

Yeah yeah, i know it's life support, it's no joke, but com'on, every single peice of gear i own that gets used for real work shows similar wear like that, especially if shaped like that. All my RE swivels with squared edges look just like that picture.. i honestly can't even see material worn away from that tech notice's example, there's still hard raised lines from manufacturing running through the "Worn" section, it purley just looks like the color is missing, that's it!!!! Id bet money they were i-net shamed into pulling it as opposed to an actual problem. Otherwise it would have been recalled.

Haha.. that's for sure Bango, that Rook will take you from 0 - 100 if you ain't used to it!! Lol.. It always sneaks up on me when my bridge is extended a bit & I reach down for my foot ascender.. I don't think i gave it enough time, but I've always liked less weight & a little more friction up there anyways. The CMI CS seemed like a good compromise until someone had to ruin all the fun.

Sure I will get a picture.
My understanding is, the "fault" in the original was that the hard coat would wear off where the bridge rubs it. There is or was an advisory pdf about it on treestuff in the details of the cali. If the hard coat is not worn off, i think there is no problem. I have never heard of a failure, but that doesn't mean one didn't happen. The redesign doesn't mean a failure did happen either, it just means cmi is doing their best to not have one. If the redesign is just a reformulation of the hard coat or application process, it might not be a visible difference. I actually don't know why it would matter if the hard coat wears off unless it made a sharp edge. If the metal wore more than 20 or 30 percent, I could see being concerned, but those things are thick! Half of that swivel is thicker than most rings. And its rated for what, 40kn? I'm going to see if I can find anything else out about it too.
Exactly.. The coat that's it...
Why Pull it? Just phase existing ones out & slip in the new one..

Yes, on both accounts. I'll try to make time to experiment with them. Rather swamped right now.
Oh fancy! You got both! Nice! Yes, please look into that, although i don't think it would have enough clearance to pivot like this HHX shackle does, it would be nice to know what fits what.. i deff like those shackles... it's just one toy at a time here lately.. be nice to know when i get around to purchase.
Thanks Jeff.

- Last comment here i swear
Anyone know what rich is dipping his rope ends in? The viper & boa? Whatever it is, it's rock hard & seals the unmeltable aramids from fray very nice. I sure could use this product for other projects.. it's not just regular clear whip dip is it?
 
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RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
BDB better than both?
The Bulldog bone is great on the right rope. In many ways I think it's the best device that I have used. On the right rope. On the wrong rope it is not good. The hh2 is adaptable to a far greater range on rope and can be tuned in different ways with different hitch cords and hitches which makes it superior in some ways, and fun to use. Both are great devices and I am glad I have one of each. I kinda want two of each.
 

Joeybagodonuts

Well-Known Member
Location
Boondocks
Used to use super glue gel for the nonmeltable types, but that left the ends prone to snagging while tying knots or hitches. Recently trying whipping twine and very low heat to fuse together.
Ahhh super glue.. right on..! I can see your concern about snagging, but i think it would work well for the ends. Interesting fusing technique you have there, those must be real nice to thread through stuff. Personally, I'd like something to use over stitching on E2E's, like Teufelbergers resin. Something that could take the place of shrink tube. I use pinto's alot connected back to the becket so my shrink gets destroyed almost immediately.
 

John@TreeXP

Well-Known Member
Ahhh super glue.. right on..! I can see your concern about snagging, but i think it would work well for the ends. Interesting fusing technique you have there, those must be real nice to thread through stuff. Personally, I'd like something to use over stitching on E2E's, like Teufelbergers resin. Something that could take the place of shrink tube. I use pinto's alot connected back to the becket so my shrink gets destroyed almost immediately.
I watched a few how to whip videos and whipped all my loose ends :cool:.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
Ahhh super glue.. right on..! I can see your concern about snagging, but i think it would work well for the ends. Interesting fusing technique you have there, those must be real nice to thread through stuff. Personally, I'd like something to use over stitching on E2E's, like Teufelbergers resin. Something that could take the place of shrink tube. I use pinto's alot connected back to the becket so my shrink gets destroyed almost immediately.
@yoyoman recommended clear dimensional fabric paint I think. I know nothing about fabric paint, but I also dislike shrink wrap on my stitching. So I am planning on trying to find it at some point.
 

Joeybagodonuts

Well-Known Member
Location
Boondocks
@yoyoman recommended clear dimensional fabric paint I think. I know nothing about fabric paint, but I also dislike shrink wrap on my stitching. So I am planning on trying to find it at some point.

I like these ideas y'all are pushing out.. I truley do.. so don't take this sarcastic or know it all.
Do we know for fact these sealers/resins/etc were experimenting with don't alter the cordage or the stitchings' strength? How are we determining this..

Also, a side note regarding shrink wrap, sometimes I've noticed i really need to heat the fuck out of some wraps to get them to shrink down efficiently.. When we do this, are we not pushing these poly's/nylons past their deterioration point with our heat guns? Sure there might be low temp shrink, but how do we know it's not 500-600 degrees causing it to shrink? This one has bugged me since i started splicing & having a need to shrink..


Last-
Regarding the HHX, i don't want to get ahead of my self here, but wow, the way this thing ships out really surprised me.. There's definitely a personal touch (that takes time) to do what rich is doing here. I expected just a bag of parts, no..no.. everything's assembled, Innovation Hitch tied around the secondary cordage that comes with it, the Shackle is in place with an little removable tether already made/installed so you don't lose the pin, the smc ring is already on the shackle with a little rubber keeper in place, cordages are whipped/dipped. You get your usual stickers, but includes as well, some extra little rubber donut keepers & a CI wrist band. You can just tell alot of thought went into this item. Nice job Rich!
 

Jonny

Well-Known Member
Location
Buffalo
I think the idea of the fabric paint and or super glue was just on cut ends of heat resistant cords to keep them from unraveling, not for spliced or stitched eyes. Correct me if I’m wrong though.
 

Joeybagodonuts

Well-Known Member
Location
Boondocks
I think the idea of the fabric paint and or super glue was just on cut ends of heat resistant cords to keep them from unraveling, not for spliced or stitched eyes. Correct me if I’m wrong though.
Ahh ic.. just the ends... makes sense..
Also, i didn't notice that it was yoyo that may have recommended it.. I'd have to assume he put some of thought into the use of it, either before or after..
Still like to know what Teufelberger us using. Wish they did all their eyes in it too, as opposed to just one resin & one shrink with tag. Probably would slow production waiting for it to dry in order to then shrink/tag.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
Yoyoman aka Richard Mumford aka Climbing Innovations has most likely break tested stitched eyes with the fabric paint. It was definitly stitched eyes we were talking about with the paint to protect the stitches instead of shrink wrap. He puts a lot of break test videos out on youtube, maybe one of them has a painted stitched eye.
You make a good point though. Does the heat or paint, ect, alter cord strength? Only comparison break testing could tell us for sure. Anyone want to donate a dozen stitched eyes to break?
 

Joeybagodonuts

Well-Known Member
Location
Boondocks
Yoyoman aka Richard Mumford aka Climbing Innovations has most likely break tested stitched eyes with the fabric paint. It was definitly stitched eyes we were talking about with the paint to protect the stitches instead of shrink wrap. He puts a lot of break test videos out on youtube, maybe one of them has a painted stitched eye.
You make a good point though. Does the heat or paint, ect, alter cord strength? Only comparison break testing could tell us for sure. Anyone want to donate a dozen stitched eyes to break?

Yes, something to cover the stitches on unshrinked eyes..
I dont think ive seen any videos with the actual fabric stuff in a break test, none that i noticed anyhow..
I did however see a clip where either him or someone who sent him something, used some sort of straight up Industrial Epoxy on the eye to renforce the stitching or hold the eye together by itself, i can't remember.. all i recall was this chunky clunky looking thing getting broken, i think it actually broke impressive for what it was... It definitely looked like a 4yr old went crazy with the paste bottle... got a good laugh out of it.
 

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