Favorite termination knot

Any of you guys using the Anchor hitch back it up with a stopper knot? For the record I've had the hitch get caught on the spliced end even in the middle hole (which is the one i prefer b/c it seems to happen more on the top), i guess now it became instinct to set the hitch before i sit back.
 
Tyler Durden said:
So I'm curious, how do you find a spliced line would limit your options? You can still tie a knot in the spliced end, just have to leave a long tail.

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I don't use the hitch climbing system, but I have thought that a spliced eye on my climb line would mean that could no longer install and remove my rope runner by just passing through a tail. Tight spliced eyes probably don't work very well with a rope snap. Those leather cambium savers would be out as well. For rigging, spliced eyes are hard to pass through rigging rings and some pulleys/blocks. Finally, when retrieving a line I imagine there's some risk of pinching your spliced eye in a tight crotch.
 
Nish said:
I don't use the hitch climbing system, but I have thought that a spliced eye on my climb line would mean that could no longer install and remove my rope runner by just passing through a tail. Tight spliced eyes probably don't work very well with a rope snap. Those leather cambium savers would be out as well. For rigging, spliced eyes are hard to pass through rigging rings and some pulleys/blocks. Finally, when retrieving a line I imagine there's some risk of pinching your spliced eye in a tight crotch.
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All very good, and valid points. My work around has always been to only have a splice on one end. It takes a bit more rope management, but by watching what end hits your hardwear, you can always do a pull through. Spliced lines are just so damn convenient.

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My favorite termination is the buntline, with the scaffold knot a close second. I prefer the buntline because it is secure and can easily be untied without having a loose biner which can be dropped. I used to climb on an anchor hitch but had it get loose while climbing, so I quit using it. The company I work for does not allow us to use the anchor, because they had a climber fall when it came untied in an oak. I'm not sharing this to step on anyone's toes, just want to inform. Also the knot needs to cinch the biner so that it is not side loaded. I to used to use the hitch climber with a termination knot, it was not a good idea and exposed me to the hitch not grabbing.
 
Keith Byville said:
My favorite termination is the buntline, with the scaffold knot a close second. I prefer the Buntline because it is secure and can easily be untied ..
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As a rule of thumb, Cow based hitches are easier to untie than Clove based.
This goes for the bases, and the bases tied to Standing Part choked around host
>>Turn + 2 Half-Hitches(HH) opposing more Cow based easier untie than continuous Clove type HH's.
Then also same as Cow/Clove based hitches around Standing Part inward for
Clove type Buntline
>>but, to same architecture Cow based Lobster Buoy easier untie.
.
Also, side note: Buntline / Lobster Buoy are used for more tightening
>>than outward around Standing Part 2 HH or 2HH opposing
BUT, that is only true if only single Turn on host preceding the turns around Standing Part.
>>IF upgrade to Round Turn around HOST it gives more frictions
>>taking away extra security of Buntline / Lobster Buoy
>>(that now don't have enough line tension to them to do their super lock for extra security)
.
This also carries to the stronger Scaffold/Dbl. Noose.
It's uninterrupted Round Turn around Standing Part
>>gives back some 'strength' that a simple Turn around Standing Part loses
>>BUT this isn't true if upgrade the Turn around HOST to Round Turn,
>>then not enough line tension left at that point to grip Standing Part hard enough to make stronger!
 
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Keith Byville said:
My favorite termination is the buntline, with the scaffold knot a close second. I prefer the buntline because it is secure and can easily be untied without having a loose biner which can be dropped. I used to climb on an anchor hitch but had it get loose while climbing, so I quit using it. The company I work for does not allow us to use the anchor, because they had a climber fall when it came untied in an oak. I'm not sharing this to step on anyone's toes, just want to inform. Also the knot needs to cinch the biner so that it is not side loaded. I to used to use the hitch climber with a termination knot, it was not a good idea and exposed me to the hitch not grabbing.
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Just wondering if there are any details to the anchor knot failure? How did it come loose?
 
That's a great question. I use one whenever I climb ddrt, and I've not had one work loose. If set properly it should tighten, in my experience. One scenario that may cause failure is having the tail cinch down "behind" the biner rather than on the front side. Thoughts?
 
Crimsonking said:
That's a great question. I use one whenever I climb ddrt, and I've not had one work loose. If set properly it should tighten, in my experience. One scenario that may cause failure is having the tail cinch down "behind" the biner rather than on the front side. Thoughts?
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In my experience, i was using a 10mm single eye bee line footlocking prussik that i felt was too long so instead of using the eye splice i shortened it up with the anchor hitch to a snap. (this was a little while ago and it was one of my first climbs) I knew i had a tail a few inches long when i set it, little while later up in the tree i noticed the single eye splice was right up against the anchor hitch.
Maybe it was the new beeline on the snap? or it loosened up while footlocking? not sure exactly, but i freaked me out enough to not use the hitch again..
 
A buntline is a clove hitch tied to the standing part of the line. I’ve tried swapping the clove hitch portion of the buntline with a picket-line hitch instead as it is about as compact a shape and seems to exit parallel to the line which would be more desirable than the side exit of a standard buntline.
 
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Yea where the tale exits can be a pain. If the fisherman didn’t get so tight it be great because the tail stays very upright and out of the way
 
Bob Bob said:
I've used the scaffold knot to terminate the rope end to the biner in a DDRT setup with the Hitchclimber pulley but knot interference with the hitch cord can happen. Lately I've been using the Anchor hitch which seems to create less interference. The instructions from DMM state to only use it with spliced rope but their lawyer made them say that, with proper monitoring it can be done with knots. Another tip is to use the middle hole on the Hitchclimber pulley to get more clearance between the hitch cord and the termination knot.
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You could bend a split tail with a spliced eye on to the climbing line, especially if the climbing line is very difficult or impossible to splice in an eye.
 
Raven said:
Anchor hitch with long tail has never once slipped on me but each climber's different. In this configuration I have a hard time getting it to grab and release my hitch, although experience has taught me to never let that happen.
View attachment 41508 The backside:View attachment 41509I also find splices restrictive and I prefer to be able to do what I want with the end of my line but thats just me - Find what works for you and what you feel comfortable with.
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Is that swivel on your bridge a black diamond rotor?
 
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