Favorite termination knot

I've been running the zig zag with a Yosemite Bowline on my anchor side. I can control how much distance to put between the biner and where I start my knot. It's clear of mechanical prusik so never have to worry about it catching and sliding.


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Anchor hitch with long tail has never once slipped on me but each climber's different. In this configuration I have a hard time getting it to grab and release my hitch, although experience has taught me to never let that happen.
DSCF6167.webp The backside:DSCF6174.webpI also find splices restrictive and I prefer to be able to do what I want with the end of my line but thats just me - Find what works for you and what you feel comfortable with.
 
Anchor hitch with long tail has never once slipped on me but each climber's different. In this configuration I have a hard time getting it to grab and release my hitch, although experience has taught me to never let that happen.
View attachment 41508 The backside:View attachment 41509I also find splices restrictive and I prefer to be able to do what I want with the end of my line but thats just me - Find what works for you and what you feel comfortable with.
Raven, can you please tell me a little bit about what's going on with the configuration of the positioning system that's oriented to the left in the first photo? It appears you have 2 lines running through a single hitch. Looks interesting!
 
Raven, can you please tell me a little bit about what's going on with the configuration of the positioning system that's oriented to the left in the first photo? It appears you have 2 lines running through a single hitch. Looks interesting!
That is what caught my eye a well.
 
Being a twin type system it would be super safe made even more so being made of what looks like Technora.
 
It's an adjustable footlock prussik, for lack of a better term. Makes a good redi also and in this case a much needed third positioner on a storm damaged snag. I call it my thneed, it's one of everything.

Nifty. Just a loop with a hitch tied on it?
I could dig that. Or do you run tails with stoppers on the end? Can we just have a picture of your thneed?

I had a thing we called the thneed. It was a horribly ugly rigging sling with 4 legs that came off of a big steel ring. There were loops and rigging rings and steel rings... it was more versatile and novel than it actually got used. Just so clunky, but it kinda looked like the thneeds in the book.
I think I probably like yours better.
 
Did you teach yourself? Any books or vids to watch out for?. I have a 200ft velocity i want to splice. Its a 24 strand though , ill have to search the splice rack and get some details on it.
Try not to get disheartened. I always recommend people start with stable braid or another loose double braid before trying a really tight one like velocity...
Especially used velocity.
 
I'm keen to splice myself how many splices did it take before you would climb on one?
I climbed on my first... But full hearty agree with the above advise, most of my starting splices were on the harder ropes to splice, bluemoon, tachyon, kernmaster all come to mind... Most took an attempt or two cut off the end before I got it right. One of my first took about 1/2 a day, and I felt like a rockstar doing a softer 24 strand rigging line in under 20 minutes!
 
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I've used the scaffold knot to terminate the rope end to the biner in a DDRT setup with the Hitchclimber pulley but knot interference with the hitch cord can happen. Lately I've been using the Anchor hitch which seems to create less interference. The instructions from DMM state to only use it with spliced rope but their lawyer made them say that, with proper monitoring it can be done with knots. Another tip is to use the middle hole on the Hitchclimber pulley to get more clearance between the hitch cord and the termination knot.
I've always preferred the middle hole over the top one in that setup, splice and knot alike.
 

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