Favorite saw lanyard

Serf Life said:
How resilient would you guess? Like cycles-to-failure if off/on many times
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I've been using one recently, but likewise can't comment on longevity. Does seem pretty stout, some kind of high density composite and metal clips, probably as resilient as any component already built into the saw. Really feels a lot more streamlined than a carabiner banging around on the handle itself. Also allows for using a more compact carabiner than can fit over the handle.
 
Anybody using a breakaway lanyard? I worry about the saw being snagged in a falling limb. For that reason I detach the saw when making a cut.
 
Matias said:
The belt loop that the saw is attached to will break off I think. At least thats why I connect to the thinnest loop on mine.
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That's a good point. My Sequoia states the strongest equipment loop can carry 15Kg (33 lb.) but I would not want to test it against my hip joint as I know ultimate strength is way above stated load capacity. However, the plastic Petzel Caritool S has a load capacity of 5 Kg (11 lb.) and that may be in the safe zone of breakaway vs hip joint fracture. A hip joint can certainly survive a persons body weight (lets say 150 Lb.), but what is the ultimate break strength of a Petzel Caritool S (or L)?
 
Camdo said:
That's a good point. My Sequoia states the strongest equipment loop can carry 15Kg (33 lb.) but I would not want to test it against my hip joint as I know ultimate strength is way above stated load capacity. However, the plastic Petzel Caritool S has a load capacity of 5 Kg (11 lb.) and that may be in the safe zone of breakaway vs hip joint fracture. A hip joint can certainly survive a persons body weight (lets say 150 Lb.), but what is the ultimate break strength of a Petzel Caritool S (or L)?
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Low enough that I didn't notice it snag on a branch and break off on a quick ascent
 
Neill said:
I once let the carabiner get on top of my hand as I engaged the throttle- when I released the carabiner kept the trigger slightly depressed and the saw continued running. It was a mistake on my part but it’s made me not want to connect a carabiner directly to the rear handle again
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You see that pirate. It is 12 years old easy. Never ever had what you described happen to me. It has seen a lot of big saw action..
 
Camdo said:
Anybody using a breakaway lanyard? I worry about the saw being snagged in a falling limb. For that reason I detach the saw when making a cut.
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I use TreeStuff's double snap breakaway lanyard. They have tested them to consistently break at 350#. They are not long enough for my reach so I extend the non breakaway end by using a 10 inch saw strap.
 
Personally I like a fixed pig-tail, ring, lanyard configuration. I hate having a floppy carabiner on the handle of my big saws and prefer the girth-hitched webbing that stays put and can't slide around the handle, and that lanyard goes on whichever big saw I'm using at the moment. On my tiny saws (Echo 2511 and 2500) I have the smallest lightest lanyards possible just go go with the light/minimal style, and on my primary climbers (T540i and 201T) I'm back to the girth-hitched pig-tail, ring, webbing. I don't like having the saw directly attached to my saddle, but that's just personal preference. Other than the lanyard that I put on whichever rear handle saw I'm using, my 4 climbing saws all have lanyards that just live on them, because I don't like having to swap gear. The idea of a break-away lanyard appeals to me for safety reasons, but on both my regular saddles how the saw is attached is the intentional weak point that would break away long before anything else.

Honestly it's all personal preference. Except for those people that don't believe in lanyards, they are just wrong :p

000 lanyard.jpg
 
Merle Nelson said:
I use TreeStuff's double snap breakaway lanyard. They have tested them to consistently break at 350#. They are not long enough for my reach so I extend the non breakaway end by using a 10 inch saw strap.
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I have considered the break-away lanyards available but hesitate as the break force seems too high for my comfort. 350 Lbs. seems like a lot of force to me. That is the weight of a cast iron V8 car engine, or 4 bags of cement. Do I want that on my 1/2 inch hip ball and socket....nope.

I was thinking of measuring the break strength of upholstery thread and then bind two rings with multiple thread loops to obtain a custom break-away joint to my liking. I have been thinking of this but have not yet tried it.
 
96coal449 said:
I love my Recoil for top handles. Short and out of the way, with all the reach you could ever need. Yes it can snag stuff but, I've become used to how it behaves. Had a hollow braid I made for the big saws. 8'' loop with a ring on saw side and dog snap for saddle attachment. Got chewed by the saw on a bad spruce removal with a crane. I'll be making another.

EDIT: I made my own because I wanted a long non bungee style for a big bared saw.
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Update: I made another temporary replacement from 5/16 hollow braid. I got the hollow braid years ago from TS bag of rope deal. I reused the same hardware. Doing some crane work in a black willow, I rigged the top for a pick. Made a relief cut then cut through on the opposite side. My cuts were off just enough for a saw kerf snag scenario. I was wearing gloves with synthetic palm side for rocking down with the ZZ. Anyways, the cut grabbed my saw, and took it out of my hands before I could get a better grip. That 5/16 lanyard held it's own though. The Sugi Hara bar ended up snapping, giving the saw freedom of death, and stayed with me.

Thanks again Swing. You saved me $700 plus.
 
I’ve enjoyed the breakaway for ease of connect and disconnect switching between saws. It’s the only notch product in my arsenal. It’s cheap and readily available and the reach works for my short arms.

I never use the ring on the lanyard to clip to my harness though... Use the built in clips on the top handles. And then on rear handles, you can get a carabiner on the handle in between the girthed lanyard clip so it stays in place. But do not simply clip the carabiner to the lanyard clip. This also keeps the saw a little higher up in stow mode.

350# of force may be perfect in that rare but dangerous scenario of a large piece being cut and taking your saw with it. Rather it come off my harness than suck me into it as well. But the breakaway aspect is really more appealing to me because I can quickly switch between saws.
 
The only time a saw seriously got caught in a piece was 20 years ago.
Big oak branch, used a step cut, it broke off and grabbed the husky 288 with it, the saw freed itself after a split second, bar got bent beyond repair, hip hurt for a bit, but no lasting damage. Lanyard was an old hank of climbing line.

My point/question is, I am unsure that a saw could hold on to a significant piece of wood for more than a moment before breaking free.
 
Mick Dempsey said:
The only time a saw seriously got caught in a piece was 20 years ago.
Big oak branch, used a step cut, it broke off and grabbed the husky 288 with it, the saw freed itself after a split second, bar got bent beyond repair, hip hurt for a bit, but no lasting damage. Lanyard was an old hank of climbing line.

My point/question is, I am unsure that a saw could hold on to a significant piece of wood for more than a moment before breaking free.
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I think it’s an excellent point / question :)

It isn’t the selling point for me, let’s just say that.

Also I recently pulled up a saw and upon inspecting the two buckles noticed one of them was just completely cracked, and it was a fairly new buckle. So maybe 350# is aspirational? And also hammered in the lesson to use something other than the plastic clip to hang it on my harness.

I do think it’s important for folks on the ground for there to be something connecting the saw to your harness. I remember that as an ANSI standard but I could be wrong. Maybe using a saw lanyard that has a less than bombproof construction is the worst of both worlds? I’m open to that conclusion.

I really like these homemade doohickies.
 
I love these on rear handles. Keeps things from sliding around.

www.husqvarna.com

Husqvarna Eyelet

Eyelet with a unique design, made for arborists who use a standard chain saw. <br />Offers a safe way to connect the chainsaw to the chainsaw strop. <br />Has
www.husqvarna.com www.husqvarna.com

If they ever come back in stock these are simply the best saw lanyard:

www.securitelandry.com

Chainsaw retractable lanyard SNAKE by HiiGARD - Sécurité Landry

Chainsaw retractable lanyard SNAKE by HiiGARD [...]Read More...
www.securitelandry.com www.securitelandry.com
 
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Boomslang said:
I love these on rear handles. Keeps things from sliding around.

www.husqvarna.com

Husqvarna Eyelet

Eyelet with a unique design, made for arborists who use a standard chain saw. <br />Offers a safe way to connect the chainsaw to the chainsaw strop. <br />Has
www.husqvarna.com www.husqvarna.com

If they ever come back in stock these te simply the best:

www.securitelandry.com

Chainsaw retractable lanyard SNAKE by HiiGARD - Sécurité Landry

Chainsaw retractable lanyard SNAKE by HiiGARD [...]Read More...
www.securitelandry.com www.securitelandry.com
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Those eyelets!! Thanks for posting that. Gonna grab a couple.
 
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