DRT

Ok how is the clicks less? Lanyarding in is 2 clicks removing is two clicks. how is that different for a second line? unclip from harness, run around branch and reconnect. Then when leaving spot, unclip from harness retrieve from "redirect" and reclip to harness. same amount of clips?
 
Your right, my mistake. Its the same in that scenario. I think I have Not come to many cuts where I felt I need to get a redirect for positioning for just one cut.
 
treebing said:
Yes Reg, in general I go down the easiest road possible. I am forcing myself to learn new techniques but I see no disadvantage in that.
The first time I ran a speed line I lost the whole day. Now, I know when it will work and when it won't, and speedlines make me money when I use them.
When I switched from 2:1 climbing to 1:1 climbing I lost a lot of time initially. Then it made me much faster and effecient.
I used to never wear chainsaw protection. Now, I do. and who knows if one day they will save me. I decided I don't care to find out.
I need to keep this work interesting or I go crazy. It makes a lot of sense to me. Anything that gives me more options, more stability, and security, I am likely to stick with. This seems after just a couple of weeks as something I will be doing long term. I don't think I will feel like I'm forcing it. But it's still early. I have a lot of bugs to work out yet but none seem insurmountable.
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Nothing wrong with experimenting new tools and techniques, so long as you give yourself a reality checks too. I only discovered handsaws relatively late into my climbing career....and they seemed like a revelation at the time, silent, accurate and lightweight. I quickly incorporated one into all of my pruning....be that a lot of big trees with lots of cuts throughout. At the time crown reduction was pretty much the first option for pruning trees in the UK....not sure if that's changed more recently. A friend of mine commented on how he'd seem me get through trees much faster with a chainsaw....I dismissed his theory of course and argued all the advantages of a handsaw that I was enjoying at the time. It wasn't until I saw another climber using a handsaw some months after to prune an entire tree that I realized how painfully comparatively slow the whole process was. It begged the question 'did I really look as bad and wasteful as him ? Probably. Blinkered, I was. But never after that. Handsaws are still cool, but are seriously limiting over the course of a whole job. But I had to see it from the outside before realizing that. I have a phenomenal handsaw now, but know when and when not to. Keep it real is what I'm saying.
 
Have you got an 150? That has made chainsaw climbing tolerable on big prunes.

I hear you. There are a lot of things to consider though and they are not all about speed. Handsaw does look better. Chainsaw is faster cutting but more fatiguing climbing.
I think in this DRT experiment I do have to force myself to learn it, so I can do it effectively. I don't have anything to lose by it. Ill get paid for the work I do and I won't get fired. I sub contracted for a guy last week and he was a bit miffed at my setup time and my fiddling with stuff. but he doesn't have anyone else to call so what's he gonna do?
This job has gotten to the point where I feel I do a lot of it in auto-pilot and that actually does really scare me. The feeling oh my gosh, I have taken this whole tree down and I don't even really remember it!

I guess I had a real good time at sprat and I really enjoyed working with all those ropes and getting Profficient at them. Its like relearning climbing again. I like that.
 
treebing said:
This job has gotten to the point where I feel I do a lot of it in auto-pilot and that actually does really scare me. The feeling oh my gosh, I have taken this whole tree down and I don't even really remember it!
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Spending any number of years working the same territory can do that to you. You should come spend a week blowing out big tops in BC. I have a spare room.
 
First conifer removal today. DRT was way more efficient that SRT + lanyard. I actually went 2:1 on one line and 1:1 on the other. No lanyard until the spar. Had 2:1 when I need, and 1:1 when needed. Was just playing around but had that tree down in very respectable time and was tied in Twice and tied in well the whole way. I didn't get my high throw so 2:1 system made advancing my TIP easy.. My SRT rope was like my lanyard. When I reached the top set my block and proceeded down. Lots of time saved by not messing with lanyard for each cut.
 
How about 1:1, 2:1 and 2:2, 3:2, 4:2.

Today I climbed 3:2

First number is how many legs of rope in front of you.

Second number is how many ropes your using.
 
Kev, are you using 2 independent base ties or simply one anchor with both lines in it?
 
That PMI rope seems like it would rival Escalator after being loaded. I used to joke that you push the rope up to install it in the tree. I think I'm going to use 10.5mm Platinum for my DRT ideas. 11.5 for the main line and the thinner for the secondary. After doing a few climbs with DRT in the back of my mind, I can really see where it would benefit (in some cases, not all), but I would feel really naked without my lanyard. That will take some getting used to.
 
sDRT on Rope Runners.webp

Ok. Day one for me in sDRT. Two lines based tied, two Rope Runners, no lanyard. For the particular tree I had to prune, it was absolutely perfect. I had four large leaders to rig out of a big Black Walnut.

What Kevin said about hang gliding couldn't be closer to the truth. The angle of influence you can create with 2 SRT lines is totally sick. Passing redirects is such a fluid thing. I was originally thinking that having no lanyard would make redirecting weird, but it's just the opposite. I always have a short lanyard (8'), so when I climb SRT, I have to be comfy in my lanyard to disconnect from the or art system, but with 2 lines, you can hang just about anywhere and remove one to pass the other. It might not be perfect all the time, but in today's case, it couldn't have been better.

When I ascend, I climb one line with a Pantin and HAAS, and tend the secondary as best I can to avoid too much slack in it. I probably could have set enough weight in the tail to have the secondary RR glide along below my bridge, but I didn't. The process could easily be dialed in.

Two bridges on the saddle are essential. I'm not sure having the secondary RR tethered away is important, but for certain cases it might be best.
 
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This is a dismantle of an American Elm. Two garages and four service drops split through the power lines. I felt I was so solid on work positioning hand tossed the brush out in tiny pieces through tiny holes. Then rigged out the wood.
 
treebing said:

This is a dismantle of an American Elm. Two garages and four service drops split through the power lines. I felt I was so solid on work positioning hand tossed the brush out in tiny pieces through tiny holes. Then rigged out the wood.
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Nice pictorial presentation of your DRT system and how you are using it.
 
treebing said:
Thanks Dave


It's starting to come together.
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Kev, I find that utility eyes are best for installing lines, whether it's one or two simultaneously. I tried something like your photo on day one and had a miserable time. I had to pull in a second throwline and install the 2 lines separately in the same union. A bit of a pain before the climb but really worth it in that case.
 
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