Compact Bulldog Bone

I believe the slippage reported is due to the rope being flattened by the clamping action of the Bone with repeated use, rather than wear on the spine. It would be useful to know or see the amount of wear that the spine is developing on the users Bones to date. It may help to go with a larger bollard if possible, or even the DMM spacer shown in Tyler's picture.
I have experimented before with the DMM spacer, with the spacer installed on the link pin (with no inner bearing) for 1/2" size ropes, and with the spacer installed with the 1/2" bollard as the inner bearing for 7/16" size ropes. When installed in this manner the spacer has a sort of rolling cam action on the rope that may help with grip.

Tyler, if you were to obtain a size 80 roller connecting link, you could press the axles out and they would fit perfectly on the link pin, and also span the width of the link across the top of the release arm. You could then capture the axle/bollard with the locking swivel link. This not only narrows the gap, but raises the swivel link a bit, giving a bit more bend to the rope. You could do the same thing with the other axle/bollard on the bottom arm with the same effect.
 
Paul Hedderly said:
Also watch out that the sleeve doesn't slip to the side over the link plate - the rope could then slip the other side and jam or cut get cut against the other plate.
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I'm not gonna climb on this. I just did it to see if it worked.

oceans said:
You say it worked, but could you elaborate? I imagine you just wanted to see if you could get it to hold and didn't run around a tree with it, but from the looks of it in the second picture, the arms are getting really upright. How did it feel to break open/release/control on descent?
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Once i broke it open it slipped about 4" before grabbing again. It felt pretty inconsistent too because my beeline blue was milking a good bit.

surveyor said:
I have experimented before with the DMM spacer, with the spacer installed on the link pin (with no inner bearing) for 1/2" size ropes.
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I want to try this! With 11mm rope that is. Is it okay if there is that much play? I don't see a problem with it.
 
Try it low and slow and see what you think. put the 1/2" bollard inside the DMM spacer to reduce the gap that the rope runs through.
 
My 1/2" New England rope is flatter than hell! It's now 1/4" rectangle rope. The Bone is nice but im wondering how long my rope will last??
 
surveyor said:
Try it low and slow and see what you think. put the 1/2" bollard inside the DMM spacer to reduce the gap that the rope runs through.
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I think that if I put the 1/2" bollard in the dmm spacer, it will be way to much. I mean if I put only the dmm space on the link. There will be lots of play but the friction will be the same once engaged. Wouldn't it? Correct me if I'm wrong please
 
Tyler, with the 1/2" bollard within the spacer/sheave, the gap is nearly a perfect 11mm. You could try it both ways and see which works best on your rope.
 
hammer0419 said:
My 1/2" New England rope is flatter than hell! It's now 1/4" rectangle rope. The Bone is nice but im wondering how long my rope will last??
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Hammer, are you on a 16 strand rope?
If you see broken fibers, excessive fraying, etc, you may have a concern, but all that is happening is the fibers are conforming to the shape of what the rope ran through. You should be able to shake out the flattening fibers and return the shape to normal.
I would also recommend moving into a 24 strand double braid rope. Perhaps something like Vortex. Take your time with it and make a decision you're comfortable with. There's lots of info about that in this long thread, but I'm sure others will chime in for you.
 
Oceans, thank you very much for the info. Yes the new england is 16 strand. I will just keep an eye on it. After winter I will buy another rope. The bone works excellent. I was concerned with being 245# and using it. However, I believe it will easily and safely handle quite a bit more than me!!
 
JTree said:
Anyone try KMIII yet? I've never even touched the stuff before, but I'm thinking maybe a full on static rope might be just the thing.
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I've used 7/16" KMIII a whole bunch with the 3/4" bollard. Fantastic combo, but a little thin for my overall preference.
 
hammer0419 said:
Oceans, thank you very much for the info. Yes the new england is 16 strand. I will just keep an eye on it. After winter I will buy another rope. The bone works excellent. I was concerned with being 245# and using it. However, I believe it will easily and safely handle quite a bit more than me!!
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I really feel that the thicker ropes will lend well to your weight, which also should not be an issue for the Bone to handle. That Vortex will break in to a real nice diameter over time...but a LONG time with the Bone. It's so rope friendly.

I really like hearing from everyone's experience, which is always so varied. Keep us posted man, and have fun with that thing!
 
JTree said:
Anyone try KMIII yet? I've never even touched the stuff before, but I'm thinking maybe a full on static rope might be just the thing.
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I flew tachyon today 5/8 bollard. Thats a real good climb right there. Imori was pretty good doesn't tend quite as buttery. The bounce factor wasn't too noticable for me today with only 100 feet of rope in use with base anchor. I don't think it will be unless you have lots of rope in system in some tall trees and its probably not going to last but a few feet at the start of ascent. All in how you move as well I guess so I'm generalizing really. I'd like to try a static rope like km3 , just enjoy the hand knot a billity working flex of the 24 strand double braids . I do believe a rope that can absorb some energy in event of fall shouldn't be overlooked. Oh and the bungee tender is legit. Didn't notice a difference with between the top arms and behind the back of spine both ways seemed to have worked equally well.
 
Treetopflyer said:
I flew tachyon today 5/8 bollard. Thats a real good climb right there. Imori was pretty good doesn't tend quite as buttery. The bounce factor wasn't too noticable for me today with only 100 feet of rope in use with base anchor. I don't think it will be unless you have lots of rope in system in some tall trees and its probably not going to last but a few feet at the start of ascent. All in how you move as well I guess so I'm generalizing really. I'd like to try a static rope like km3 , just enjoy the hand knot a billity working flex of the 24 strand double braids . I do believe a rope that can absorb some energy in event of fall shouldn't be overlooked. Oh and the bungee tender is legit. Didn't notice a difference with between the top arms and behind the back of spine both ways seemed to have worked equally well.
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You're really on point here. I've said it before and say it again...if one is using their redirects properly, they're not going to notice the elongation in a line like Tachyon while working aloft. You may notice it at the beginning of your ascent, but that's really about it. Let it be. Give yourself (AND THE TREE!!!) some energy absorption. You're only going to need it when you need it, so fly a line that gives you good hand, good performance in the multi-scender, and some energy absorption.
You can mark my words that it won't be long before rope manufacturers start to offer lines specifically designed for SRWP. A rope company would be silly to overlook the ever growing swell of climbers using these systems on ropes that sort of work. Soon we'll have options that truly work rad!
 
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Gordon, have u tested using bearings instead of bollards? These are from roller skates, the inside diameter fits perfect on the swivel link. Two of them is the exact width too.
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I have a few bearings but not that size. You will have to keep us posted. The largest one looks like it may work with 11mm line.
 
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