Compact Bulldog Bone

That is likely because your mod puts the friction link 1" from the pivot, at 1.5" (stock) the upper arm has more leverage and purchase. However your point is well taken because the Bone will release, as previously mentioned, at either location given the right conditions.
 
I circumcised my bone today. Shortened the upper arms and re-threaded for the safety nubs. Made a groove in the upper arms for ease of putting rope on. Pretty much copy cat. We'll see how it runs after xmas. Seems to collapse in a way now that will help slack tending even more : )
 
MikePowers321 said:
I circumcised my bone today. Shortened the upper arms and re-threaded for the safety nubs. Made a groove in the upper arms for ease of putting rope on. Pretty much copy cat. We'll see how it runs after xmas. Seems to collapse in a way now that will help slack tending even more : )
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When you say "shorten", do you mean at the rear pivot or at the nub side?

"Nub side"...LOL! So technical, this lingo here.
 
oceans said:
So, it sounds like the uppers can collapse more for possible improved tending?
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I wouldn't say collapse more. I noticed very early on that the unwanted friction I was getting was eliminated when I would lift the tip of the upper arm just a little bit, which changed the angle and seemed as though the Bone didn't lean forward so much. Hard to put in words.

So now, I shortened the arms and lowered the nubs off center on the arms to give it that little bit of added lift on the swivel link before. I won't know how successful the mod was till I test it in the field though. But just playing around downstairs seems solid. I'll try and post a picture.
 
Mike, I had the upper arms shortened for about a week. Then asked myself why I didn't shorten the lower arms as well. So I shortened the lower arms cause I didn't use them anymore. Unless one was to use the hole for tending with a slick pin of course.
 
I know I'm getting a late start here but now that everyone has had some time on the bone what are you finding are the better ropes to use with it. I have been flying the yale 11.7mm variations but it flattens out fast and never seems consistent to me. Anyone have any good suggestions as to something that runs nicely? I'd like to stay 12mm or smaller. Even with bollard changes I haven't been real happy with the yale 11.7 I'm considering something more like kmIII but wanted to hear thoughts.
 
cthompson22 said:
I know I'm getting a late start here but now that everyone has had some time on the bone what are you finding are the better ropes to use with it. I have been flying the yale 11.7mm variations but it flattens out fast and never seems consistent to me. Anyone have any good suggestions as to something that runs nicely? I'd like to stay 12mm or smaller. Even with bollard changes I haven't been real happy with the yale 11.7 I'm considering something more like kmIII but wanted to hear thoughts.
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KMIII 7/16" will run nicely with the 3/4" bollard, but I just find it a bit thin for the hand, but if it suits your style, go for it. It's super light and consistent with the Bone in my experience. I could be off since I use the KMIII in DSRT, in conjunction with another New England 24 strand DB line. This means my load may not be fully on the KMIII, so I guess take it with a grain of salt. Tachyon is so nice because of the 3 inner core strands that really keep it round. If you can stand some elongation at the beginning of the climb, that line will reward you in all other ways in the crown.
 
Worthaug said:
Not gonna say it again....I like Cougar. :)
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I thought about that as well just figured once it was broken in well it would flatten out. To me broken in cougar is about like new yale 11.7 as far as stiffness.

Oceans I actually want this for a DRT or DSRT set up so you have good advice lol. Maybe I should consider doing the same Tachyon is fine for me with elongation I don't have any issues with it. I haven't used it yet with the bone I think I have a piece of well broken in tachyon laying around to try out and see. I just know that "static" lines are still good and stiff even when broke in at least that's how it has been for me. Thanks for the info guys I guess maybe I will start with a piece of kmIII and see how it works.
 
cthompson22 said:
I thought about that as well just figured once it was broken in well it would flatten out. To me broken in cougar is about like new yale 11.7 as far as stiffness.

Oceans I actually want this for a DRT or DSRT set up so you have good advice lol. Maybe I should consider doing the same Tachyon is fine for me with elongation I don't have any issues with it. I haven't used it yet with the bone I think I have a piece of well broken in tachyon laying around to try out and see. I just know that "static" lines are still good and stiff even when broke in at least that's how it has been for me. Thanks for the info guys I guess maybe I will start with a piece of kmIII and see how it works.
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Tachyon is great with the Bone for the day to day work, small removals and short SRT prunes. But, for long ascents and long hours of static line work positioning Cougar rules (RW, BDB, HH, F8 Revolver...).
 
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