CLIMBING HAZARDOUS OAK TREE
- Thread starter Kenny Sanchez
- Start date
Chaplain242
Branched out member
Like a crane lift, tip tying and spear cut means no large swing forces applied to branch, and any swing will be back against the trunk leaving it vertical and the slap against the trunk will be smaller than if tip tying and hinging the top which requires slack to do...
Not human. For fucks sake. Have not seen any vids from him lately.
No I haven't. He has gotten to the place where he seems to tell his whole life sorry with the camera's running. I don't give a fuck about his day to day struggles for gawd sakes. I just want to watch some good tree-work. I like and feel for Human, but the dude seems to be perpetually depressed and always playing the martyr card. Fuck that!!! If he doesn't drink coffee he needs to start doing so immediately. A veritable wonder drug in which doom and gloom miraculously disappears right before your very eyes!!!!
Chaplain242
Branched out member
Makes me remember watching a documentary on the discovery of coffee. Some herders in the wilderness came across some goats dancing in a circle on their hind legs whilst chewing tips of coffee bushes and berries...
He is not fucking enough Erik. That is the mofos prob.
Agreed. I think we should rally the community and buy that man a few hookers for his birthday!!!
I imagine Mr Gu can give us some good local references?
Lets set up a gofundme for the skunt. May just help him recover.
Scratch
Participating member
- Location
- Hudson, WI
A question for you all...
Early on in this thread, a few of you mentioned that you could tell from watching his video that his chain was dull and too tight. I know how you could tell his chain was dull, but how can you tell it was too tight?
Early on in this thread, a few of you mentioned that you could tell from watching his video that his chain was dull and too tight. I know how you could tell his chain was dull, but how can you tell it was too tight?
You can tell by the sound which is always a tell tale sign. Another dead giveaway is the fact that when he takes his hand off the trigger the chain come to a stop very, very quickly.
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Such an annoying sound. A travesty to a good tool. Everytime I go to the saw shop for a repair this is how I get back my saw. It is dumbfounding that they do not know better. I have to invariably tension it to my liking. It is so dangerous when you cannot feather a chain in the kerf setting or tripping your hinge in critical cuts. Hence Kenny pushing hard. Why he cuts through his hinges prob and cuts through his undercuts when making his face cuts.....just one reason though, the other is pure inexperience.....
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Kenny Sanchez
New member
- Location
- Small part of the world
Hey Eric I have a few questions about this video of yours and I also wanted to hear others input so wanted to share it on here.
Why does it look like you’re almost cutting shoulder high, or above your ahead around 9:14 instead of more level chest high with the saw. Also looks like your life line is only a few inches apart from your lanyard, don’t they need to be at least a foot apart in the event you hit your lanyard with your saw you don’t hit your life line as well being so close? Also when chucking down those larger section why not cut through the past center of gravity and let gravity do its work instead of having to bang out wedges.
Why does it look like you’re almost cutting shoulder high, or above your ahead around 9:14 instead of more level chest high with the saw. Also looks like your life line is only a few inches apart from your lanyard, don’t they need to be at least a foot apart in the event you hit your lanyard with your saw you don’t hit your life line as well being so close? Also when chucking down those larger section why not cut through the past center of gravity and let gravity do its work instead of having to bang out wedges.
1. I usually cut somewhere between chest/chin height when chunking down logs. The reasons for cutting at chest/chin height are obvious. You can see what the fuck your doing, resulting in clean under-cuts, perfectly level back-cuts at the proper height, and being able to keep a close eye on your hinge.
2. I always try to keep my climbing line set below my flip-line and both are usually set around waist height. Sometimes I will step up into my flip-line which will increase the space between my 2 lines, and sometimes I don't. Either way, if I am cutting around chest/chin height then my lines are generally 1' - 3' feet below my cut. How much more does one need? Always know where your lines are, and always know where your bar tip is, and an inch is a mile. 40 yrs and not so much as a nicked Flip-line!!
3. I tend to chose and use methods that increase my odds of, and almost guarantee that my wood is gonna go where I intend it to go. A simple clean undercut, a level back-cut at the proper height, a nice clean strip of hinge, and the patient use of some wedges or a tagline do just that. Sure snap cuts, step cuts, or the old COG cut can be quicker and can work great, but I have found myself in dicey situations with 5000 lbs of wood dangling over my head when one of these cuts doesn't go as planned. Thanks, but I'll leave that nonsense to others.
I was climbing for an outfit in the Sierra's a few years ago and watched a highly experienced and very good climber chunk down a slightly back leaning Sugar Pine using the old COG cut. Everything was going quick and easy until it didn't. He misread the amount of back lean on a log and lost a 20 ft log over backwards, and destroyed a garage. Oops. Were the few minutes of time that he gained from not pounding a couple wedges or setting a few tag-line worth it? Nope.
I have picked up quite a few trick cuts along the way, and some are great, some not so much. I will occasionally use one if and when a situation really calls for it, but 99.9% of the time I stick to the basics because I can always count on them to put my wood where I want it, and to keep me safe.
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Kenny Sanchez
New member
- Location
- Small part of the world
Hey Eric thanks for your response as always. I was thought that when cutting face/chin high your using more of your shoulder than your back meaning less control of your saw and in the event of a kickback you have the saw right on your face or cut your neck off, if cutting chest high you have more control of your saw specially larger saw and less chances of an accident.
I get you have your life line bellow your lanyard that’s what I was taught as well, but why not at least a foot apart, you mentioned you never clipped your lanyard in all these years but then again just like using wedges for big chunks of wood instead of cutting through center of gravity why take your chances of cutting your lanyard and hitting your life line as well and falling off? All you have to do is slip it a few inches lower.
I dislike using a line to pull chunks over because they tend to dive into the soil.
As I said I always try and cut somewhere between chest and chin height, and I will flow to the position which is best for an individual cut. Many times I will make my undercut from chest height and step down and make my back-cut from shoulder/chin height because it is easier to get my back-cut perfectly level and at the proper height. Getting your cuts right is much more important than the minimal amounts of leverage that may or my not be lost or gained from cutting at shoulder height vs chest height. .
Again and inch is a mile when it comes to hitting you flip line or climbing line. If you feel more comfy with your climbing line well below your flip-line than have at it, but as long as my climbing line is below my flip-line I am happy. I use my flip-line as a reference point when cutting, and I always know where my flip-line is and I always know where your saw is.
Shit I spent a few years in Alaska limbing and ripping big tops out of trees with nothing but a flip-line. Why? Because thats what they gave you, thats how it was done, and you were taught early on not to do something as stupid as cut your flip-line. As I didn't really want to die I heeded their warnings, and have done so to this day
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
I dislike a rope when it's a waste of time. Gravity is very reliable.
If in doubt, use a rope.
@Kenny Sanchez
You might need to adjust your technique. A rope can simple rotate the COG over the hinge, without pulling it off.
Consider your face-cut shape and size, log length/ weight distribution in relation to spar height, and if you give the log any help to rotate, or slow rotation ("flippin' logs).
Kenny Sanchez
New member
- Location
- Small part of the world
So far I’ve never had a problem using gravity to chunk 7-10ft sections. The closer to the ground the smaller the section since it has less distance to flip over. Land flat every time, learned it from the fundamental. But I agree, if ever in doubt put a rope.
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