Aluminum Ring canopy anchor

Yes I use a quickie for straight up and down quick work. But for major moving around on big reductions and prunes this is the shit.
 
Oh and when you purchase the fimblesaver it is setup in a DdRT config. The adjustable prussic is set for sitting on the right side so if used like this it is twisted and bunches the rope in thimble. Not nice. Take the prussic off and reset it so when loaded in SRT config it sits nice and flush. Oh shit I use the fimbleclimb. Only treestuff has them they are the smaller of the 2. Fimblesaver is great too just a bigger version. Fimbleclimb says only a sluice works. Bullshit. It is really the small things. Can take a pic to show how the prussic should be set for SRT config. I have other adjust ring/rings that can be loaded both SRT and DdRT without unwrapping the prussic but not these.
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I've been using this, which I made. Or a much shorter version that I don't have a picture of. Knot blocking on the small ring and retrieval is so much easier than when I was running a delta link up on a ab loop. Almost no friction on retrieval and no need to have the retrieval side of the rope going down the same path as the climbing side. I also just recently learned a way to knot block on the large ring in conjunction with a cannobase tie which allows the friction saver to be lowered down real easily, along with any redirects. I'm really looking forward to trimming season.
The long adjustable friction saver works for going the whole way around a trunk, or a smaller lead/branch.


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SomethingWitty said:
Ignore the background gear.
It is just a rope through a ring on both sides while it is over the branch, tie a butterfly, biner because people think the knot will go through, and cinch.
It retrieves about like a tug setup, but with less gear.
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I have no idea how I've never seen that before.. but it's brilliant! Can it be set remotely with throwline without leaving along tail on the ground?
 
swingdude said:
I use a 26mm and 40mm ring/ring. I knot block the small ring. Retrieval side. I climb on the big ring side.
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Woah.. this thread took off.. Dtreez you following along here? Lots of good examples.

Ok.. ic Swing.. you got the real real small ring on your R&R..

I'm trying to utilize a blend of Srt & Drt (whatever the hell were calling it now) & because i had a sewn eye on my prefered climbing cordage i ended up splicing a bunch of stuff with larger 34mm rings after always struggling to thread the sewn eye through the more conventional 28mm rings while at ground level... However, now that I'm easing into SRT, I'm unsure if the 34mm small side of these savers are sufficient/safe to block. "small side" as in 40mm/34mm savers..

It's no sweat to just splice something different up with smaller rings to knot block, im just trying to utilize what i already have, including that sewn eye, that would become a pain again if i went down in ring size..

@RJB you mentioned a technique to block that larger ring on your setup? Does it involve more gear or is it strictly a larger knot used?

@SomethingWitty -
Very cool minimalist idea there.
 
Joeybagodonuts said:
Woah.. this thread took off.. Dtreez you following along here? Lots of good examples.

Ok.. ic Swing.. you got the real real small ring on your R&R..

I'm trying to utilize a blend of Srt & Drt (whatever the hell were calling it now) & because i had a sewn eye on my prefered climbing cordage i ended up splicing a bunch of stuff with larger 34mm rings after always struggling to thread the sewn eye through the more conventional 28mm rings while at ground level... However, now that I'm easing into SRT, I'm unsure if the 34mm small side of these savers are sufficient/safe to block. "small side" as in 40mm/34mm savers..

It's no sweat to just splice something different up with smaller rings to knot block, im just trying to utilize what i already have, including that sewn eye, that would become a pain again if i went down in ring size..

@RJB you mentioned a technique to block that larger ring on your setup? Does it involve more gear or is it strictly a larger knot used?

@SomethingWitty -
Very cool minimalist idea there.
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I should check with the guy who showed me the technique and probably should do some testing too, but I believe he was just using a alpine butterfly with a biner in the loop to knot block the big ring. Not sure what size his were. He was also doing it with a cannobase. So, the r and r is installed below the tip you want , then the climbing side of the rope goes up to the tip. This puts the tip under more compression and less deflection, theoretically. Also allows you to, in conjunction with knot blocking the big ring, pull throwball string back through all the redirects and the original tip and lower all the hardware down. I haven't used this yet, just learned it sunday. The guy who taught it to me seemed real knowledgeable, but because I haven't used it, or done any testing, or compared ring sizes, I can't fully indorse it yet.

Edit: I will probably use a steel delta link to spike the ab knot. I'm sure a biner would be fine as long as it can't fit through the ring, I just don't like the idea of the twist lock gate jamming into the ring. Although, if there is a decent chance of the knot pulling through the ring at all, I wouldn't use the technique. The biner/link is only there as an emergency backup.
 
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The problem with the cannobase is, then you have some added friction on retreival from the natural crotch above your r and r. I'm still just stewing it over in my head. I might have a chance to try some in a tree soon.
 
Go into the treebuzz archives and there are tons of thread on srt and drt friction saver set ups. There's people that have talked about blocking the big ring too and there's some info about testing done one knot blocking rings too. Hit the search and look.
 
An alpine will pull through a 40mm or 34mm if using 11 to 11.7mm rope if a significant fall exists. Saying that the biner will prob save ones life here. But knot blocking the big ring can easily be avoided. So why do it. Cannobase has it's place but is entirely used on a tree to tree basis. Previously topped trees come to mind. It certainly is a trick in the book which has it's place. Not an everyday thing IMHO. Use what makes sense. We have big strong trees so really does not apply a lot here. I sm not in previously topped trees much and I know what leads I can trust.
 
I really like the one ring friction saver idea and plan to try it out. How well does it release when retrieving compared to other 2-ring setups, with and without redirects? Looks like it may get hung up under certain conditions. I'm generally too lazy to use a throw line to lower my rope and whatever friction saver or rope sleeve I may happen to be using, but agree that it's a good housekeeping habit and it's a lot more gear friendly, despite the slightly added time it takes to lower a rope out of a tree using throw line at the end of a climb, rather than letting it free fall out of the tree, with the added risk of getting it snagged on something unexpected.
 
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rico said:
Perfect Swing. I have just been choking with an AB and a quickie or a pulley but with these big conifers there can be a lot of friction making retrieval a real pain in the ass sometimes. What I was envisioning was using something very similar to my DdRT retrievable set up and that is basically what you have going on there. The fimblesaver looks super clean and super simple. Fucking love it.
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Because you are working with such tall conifers, using a set up like this but with a mid line attachable friction saver might save you some set up time. You can keep your base tie as your retrievable end and use a ddrt set up on tail of your rope to advance after initial long ascent. Oval delta link and steel carabiner on each end of an eye to eye works well. AB on the oval link. I still prefer the thimble saver but still an option cause your trees are quite tall. Then you dont have to send down 150 ft of rope through the thimbles to make your retrieval end touch the ground. Just knot block and go. Dont need a groundie to untie you as well
 
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John@TreeXP said:
I really like the one ring friction saver idea and plan to try it out. How well does it release when retrieving compared to other 2-ring setups, with and without redirects? Looks like it may get hung up under certain conditions. I'm generally too lazy to use a throw line to lower my rope and whatever friction saver or rope sleeve I may happen to be using, but agree that it's a good housekeeping habit and it's a lot more gear friendly, despite the slightly added time it takes to lower a rope out of a tree using throw line at the end of a climb, rather than letting it free fall out of the tree, with the added risk of getting it snagged on something unexpected.
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It does not retrieve like a base tie (but easier) the way that a knot block RnR does.
What it does is keeps friction at the tie in, and doesn't increase your friction on the first redirect the way that a Texas tug does.
With thoughtful placement, it easily pulls two to three redirects and keeps your ring on the rope at the height of the stopper knot as you retrieve.
 
swingdude said:
An alpine will pull through a 40mm or 34mm if using 11 to 11.7mm rope if a significant fall exists. Saying that the biner will prob save ones life here. But knot blocking the big ring can easily be avoided. So why do it.
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Thank you Swing.
In the scenario i am thinking of, the 34mm is the small ring & my line is 11.7, so that about wraps it up for me.. I'll just splice up with smaller rings or continue using the AB/Quickie cinch method with Rich's M.a.r.c.s. , which provides me a little friction saving for Drt once up there.. it's not Drt on a pulley, but its pretty dang easy to work with.
 
MikePowers321 said:
Because you are working with such tall conifers, using a set up like this but with a mid line attachable friction saver might save you some set up time. You can keep your base tie as your retrievable end and use a ddrt set up on tail of your rope to advance after initial long ascent. Oval delta link and steel carabiner on each end of an eye to eye works well. AB on the oval link. I still prefer the thimble saver but still an option cause your trees are quite tall. Then you dont have to send down 150 ft of rope through the thimbles to make your retrieval end touch the ground. Just knot block and go. Dont need a groundie to untie you as well
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Yes use a MACA. You will need a revolver and a pinto/biner plus a special eye/eye made to accept the revolver. Need a bigger eye on one side. Sweet for you @rico. Retrieves with a standard retrieval ball.
 
swingdude said:
Yes use a MACA. You will need a revolver and a pinto/biner plus a special eye/eye made to accept the revolver. Need a bigger eye on one side. Sweet for you @rico. Retrieves with a standard retrieval ball.
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Took me a minute to figure out MACA (mid-line attachable canopy anchor), haha

Paul is fancy but that set up works great, with even less friction on retrieval. I just do something simple with steel like pictured, which also retrieves with a ball/cone. I just tend to bomb my Friction saver out of the tree 90 percent of the time so I stick with steel

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MikePowers321 said:
Took me a minute to figure out MACA (mid-line attachable canopy anchor), haha

Paul is fancy but that set up works great, with even less friction on retrieval. I just do something simple with steel like pictured, which also retrieves with a ball/cone. I just tend to bomb my Friction saver out of the tree 90 percent of the time so I stick with steel

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That is the first one I ever seen used.....bombproof think @rico would love it. One less part. I hate soft retrieval myself. I try to catch it but over concrete I am soft retrieval.
 
Can someone define "canobase" for us dummies? I am picturing a base tie along with a cinched canopy anchor! If this is the case, why two anchors?
 
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