Addressing hitch binding with the Rope Wrench on descent

Oertl

New Member
@Oertl; You've asked a sharp question.
...I know I'm being way too wordy and unclear, here
...I've run on too long in this post. I hope some of this is helpful.
Tim
I don't find it so. I'm always thinking of TNPG, the next poor guy/gal, who might come this way, who'll now find your thoughtful presentation, thank you.

My attempt at an observation was that the first redirect only changes the angle on the rope at the tie-in point, with the force/tension remaining the same. I supposed that a change of direction could result in pulling along a vector that was weaker than the original. I get the compression vector and that all those upward-leaning limbs have components pushing up as well as to the side, and each contributes to sharing the downward load with the tie-in. Their side forces added up create a side-load on the tie-in which didn't have one before. It's an extreme, edge case. <geek>

++1

re: the chest roller
(I too checked it out immediately... [shock] ...and briefly considered whether to sell the rest of my equipment to raise the money. Then I hit on a solution: Christmas list. Brrrr. Edit: birthday list.)
 

TrunkMonk

Member
So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Perhaps the basal anchor, having more rope, stretches less than a single leg of rope, allowing the hitch to grab better. Did you happen to notice if the slipping occurred the entire length, or more towards the top or bottom?
 

TrunkMonk

Member
As far as I recall it would slip at any stage of the climb unless I set the hitch manually with each fraction of ascent. On odd occasion it would set by itself. Using the basal it will always set as I sit back.
I can't put an extra coil on my hitch because it's too short!
I think I'll play with a few hitches specifically for canopy ties and report back..
 

John@TreeXP

Well-Known Member
I'm on the heavy side and that extra coil really does make a big difference, when trying to avoid slippage. I also find the Michocan to be a very compact and efficient hitch knot on the Rope Wrench. Strangely, I when from a longer eye-n-eye to a shorter 28". Maybe your's is under 28". It may also have something to do with the relationship between the hitch cord and your climbing line's diameter.
 

TimBr

Official Well Known Greeter
As far as I recall it would slip at any stage of the climb unless I set the hitch manually with each fraction of ascent. On odd occasion it would set by itself. Using the basal it will always set as I sit back.
I can't put an extra coil on my hitch because it's too short!
I think I'll play with a few hitches specifically for canopy ties and report back..
One advantage of SRT is that you can use hitch cord without the eye splices, so that the length of the hitch cord can be adjusted by just moving the position of the knots. There is no worry about the termination knots bumping the hitch, as can happen with DdRT and the Hitch Climber pulley. It is a lot cheaper to just buy straight lengths of hitch cord by the foot, also.

Tim
 

Acerxharlowii

Well-Known Member
So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
I’ve tried to use the Michoacán on several occasions and it always slips on me. I always use the distel or knut with 9.3 epi
 

TimBr

Official Well Known Greeter
So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
This is an interesting observation, and unfortunately I cannot shed any light on the question, as I always base tie, and have not yet played around with canopy anchors.

I just wanted to register a second vote for the Knut hitch, which is my favorite so far.

Tim
 

TrunkMonk

Member
I'll get around to trying out some new Hitches with my Canopy tie "soon" :D
Michocan is perfect for that Base Tie.
Will give the Knut a whirl
 

Burrapeg

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the knut is one I have never tried, either. Will check it out next chance I get. How is everyone doing, riding out this Arctic blast? Just heard it hit 55 below somewhere over near Chicago. Right, SwingDude, no need for you to answer!
 
Michocan Hitch for me folks.
Hands down
Yes I agree. I have found for me that the Michocan works the best. I use it with a Hitch Climber set up, with 11mm Yale Blaze Rope. I use New England 8mm Prusik cord. Five wraps on a 26" cord, keeps it close and set back is at a minimum.
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
One advantage of SRT is that you can use hitch cord without the eye splices, so that the length of the hitch cord can be adjusted by just moving the position of the knots. There is no worry about the termination knots bumping the hitch, as can happen with DdRT and the Hitch Climber pulley. It is a lot cheaper to just buy straight lengths of hitch cord by the foot, also.

Tim
I don't see what your saying here. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use tied e2es DdRT. Of course using a termination knot on the climbing line DdRT can pose serious problem.
 

colb

Well-Known Member
Yes I agree. I have found for me that the Michocan works the best. I use it with a Hitch Climber set up, with 11mm Yale Blaze Rope. I use New England 8mm Prusik cord. Five wraps on a 26" cord, keeps it close and set back is at a minimum.
Welcome to the Buzz, Mark!

I'm impressed you can put 5 wraps on 26". Is it really small diameter? I use a 28" 9.3 epi sewn for 5 wraps.
 

TimBr

Official Well Known Greeter
I don't see what your saying here. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use tied e2es DdRT. Of course using a termination knot on the climbing line DdRT can pose serious problem.
Ah, yeah, I must have been feeling a little loopy when I wrote that. Late at night, just before bedtime, kind of thing. The termination knot on the climb line was what I was thinking of. In my confused way at that time I was trying to answer a question about how to get a better fit for the length of hitch cord. Thanks for your post, you are correct.

Tim
 
Thank you colb!

Yes that's correct. It is a tight hitch however, I took the time to stretch it out end to end and measure it again today. From eye to eye it is 27"long. I make my own hitches and they vary as much as 1". I use a fisherman's knot at the terminations ends of the hitch. They are very compact and there is little to no set back. Another thing that I like is that it self tends very well and is responsive in a 3 to 1 MA. set up. It does not matter If I connect the bite to the top of my hitch climber pulley or take a bite from under my pulley to self tend.
 

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