2003 Bandit 65, trying to re-power it now, any input? Thx

So the original engine ran properly for you at some point? If it was falling apart, of course it would seem underpowered. I'm sure Bandit didn't design them to roll off the assembly line running slow and not lasting. A brand new factory spec engine, should give you factory spec results, especially on a machine with low hours, as you stated yours was when you bought it.
Yes and no. as you're probably aware, Bandit is still making 65 today and it comes with 38 HP Vanguard. So, a 23 hp engine on a machine that can handle 38 hp is underpowered by design.
 
received my brand new kohler 38 hp engine couple days ago. finished adapting to the chipper mechanically so far so good. Need engine wiring diagram to wire it to the old bandit auto feed system. I'll try to call Kohler, but feeling that it might b hard to get help from them. Also, might have to adjust the governor setting to make sure the disk doesn't spin too fast (bandit dealership guy mentioned that the new engine has a higher peak rpm at 38 hp. any thoughts? Thx. Erwin
 
There isn't any diagrams in the manual for the electronic autofeed system wiring.
I could take some pics or tell you where what goes if you tell me what you need.
I wouldn't worry about the RPMs at full throttle as the disk will be spinning faster than it did with your old motor.
I would think the faster the better.
They offered bigger engines on this model in prior years.
 
1. the old bandit factory auto fed has a 4 wire plug, 2 goes to the disk cover safety switch, 2 goes to the engine harness. the big blue wire goes to the auto feed on/off switch then to a fuse and then to 12V +. The other one is small gauge white wire that goes to one of the outer legs of the 3-legged rectifier, assuming it's getting the AC signal. I just need to find out that same AC signal wire on the new engine. the engine has 3 pig tails hanging unused, so one of them could be the one.
2. the manual for engine set up says connect the ground wire of the oil warning light to the terminal on the oil switch. But, there is only one terminal on it and it's already connected to a wire going into the engine shroud, assuming it's kill wire if oil level is low. So, I might have to make a duplicate terminal on the oil switch.

thinking if it comes with at least a simple wiring diagram I can be more sure of things, less guess work.
 
Isn't your engine low oil light already mounted on the engine?
If it is then it should be already connected to the oil switch and there's nothing for you to do.
 

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no, that control panel came in separate and I have to mount it on the engine as show in your picture. it says the black ground wire goes to the oil switch, as I said, there is already a black wire connected to the oil switch. I either run it without a warning light (assuming it'll kill the engine when oil pressure is low), or somehow connect to it in parallel)
 
I'll look at mine tomorrow.
I"m pretty sure that there isn't a kill switch and the oil switch only turns the light on.
I could be wrong though as Bandits manuals are pretty sparse on the electrical stuff other than the turn and tail lights.

Just checked the engine manual and is is a kill switch.
Oil SentryTM
Most engines are equipped with an Oil SentryTM oil
pressure switch. On pressure switch equipped
models, if the oil pressure decreases below an
acceptable level, the Oil SentryTM will either shut off
the engine or activate a warning signal, depending on
the application. See Figure 11.
 
so, I can use one of the AJ wires from stator to work the auto feed.

three hanging wires:
white --- key on 12V
green --- the wire plugged in to the oil sentry terminal at the factory
yellow --- optional oil light wire that needs to connect to white wire

very fun, will post back once I tested everything.
 
On mine the red wire from the oil light connects to a white/yellow wire located in a two wire harness (white/red and white/yellow colored wires in harness). The white/yellow wire is connected with a thicker gauge yellow wire, both in a singe connector that connects to the back of the ignition key terminal (D) in the above diagram.
The black wire from the oil light is tied off and not used.
Must get it's ground from being mounted.
 

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Let me know if you need to know more.

Out of the engine harness the green and white wires are spiced together to the single green wire.
The yellow wire is spliced to the red wire.
Blue wire goes to the back of the starter spade terminal.
Red wire goes into a fuse.
The smaller black and white wire go to the other side back of the lower cover.

PM sent with my ph#.
 

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I have the 38 hp Kohler. It's my first chipper and a recent acquisition. Seems to me that I would not want an engine with less hp, especially if the knives were dull. I like my chipper very very much, btw, so I'm not knocking the 38hp kohler, but it does take a while to process limbs that are above 5" diameter. 4" and below they just chug right through. If the engine was less capable, I think you'd be looking at 2-3" going through without slowing down. I really think you ought to put the largest engine possible on it.
 
I have the 38 hp Kohler. It's my first chipper and a recent acquisition. Seems to me that I would not want an engine with less hp, especially if the knives were dull. I like my chipper very very much, btw, so I'm not knocking the 38hp kohler, but it does take a while to process limbs that are above 5" diameter. 4" and below they just chug right through. If the engine was less capable, I think you'd be looking at 2-3" going through without slowing down. I really think you ought to put the largest engine possible on it.

Being fanatical about not running dirt through and dressing the knives helps a lot. Difference in chipping performance between wood dull and dressed is marked.
 

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