Show off them splices

The Icetail ring Prusik could be redone with shorter buries to make it longer. The tails don't have to overlap to be safe, only to give a consistent diameter to the cord, which some hitches need, but the Prusik doesn't. Locked brummels are possible on both eyes by unbraiding, and rebraiding, the second tail.
 
Santiago Casanova said:
I made a ring loop and a secret weapon with 8 and 10mm op and it worked out well. I did not cross the tails in the bury.
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Ahh.. ok.. cool man! I just got done with a 10m Op prusik ring.. I'll post pics in a few..

It went pretty good with the exception of pulling the core out at the wrong mark two times like an idiot. Obviously i fixed it though.. i was half awake i think.

I just got a ton of rigging rope too..
In this order with the 10mm Op i got
30ft 10mm Op
30ft 16mm Trex
30ft 11mmnTrex
15ft 1/2in Optimus (figured I'd try it, never heard of it)
20ft 3/4" Tenex tec
Some #12 marlow whipping
3 or 4 different sizes of heat shrink

Also have 12ft 14mm Sirius
30ft 16mm Sirius
10ft 8mm Veritas
& Then the IceTail i mucked up..

I need to get some rings to go with all this stuff.. but the main purpose behing it all is to make some slings for the Safebloc & Triple Thimble i just got..

I just dont know what to sling them up into yet.. kinda overwhelmed with the options..
 
Brocky said:
The Icetail ring Prusik could be redone with shorter buries to make it longer. The tails don't have to overlap to be safe, only to give a consistent diameter to the cord, which some hitches need, but the Prusik doesn't. Locked brummels are possible on both eyes by unbraiding, and rebraiding, the second tail.
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Oh really? No kidding.. i didn't know this.. does that ring true for all prusik's?

So.. if you look at the last post with the Ice Tail you'll see that they don't over lap anymore.. & the cordage is fairly even.. at least when i put it back together for the second time i thought it was. However, I'm pretty sure that i thinned out alot of it starting pretty low.. i think i took each side down to 6 strands & then the total bury is about a fid..

Stay tuned. I'm going to go take a look at it right now.. so i may add to this post

Ok.. so im not sure if i cut anymore off of the taper lengthwise.. i may have buried thinned back further towards the beginning of the bury as best i could.. (hard to keep track of which one your cutting when there's already a taper in place)..

This is what it looks like before..
cea7ed9b746f858a55a5272d9f3021b1.jpg


This is what i had after pulling apart first time
59675a11b295e79e0c23c4dfcaf401f8.jpg


This is it after i tapered & right before second burial. If anything the left side is just a little thicker & was still a smidge longer after burying.
48ece07f3ff58ea9999bd533cd34bdce.jpg


This is it now..
6daa37e50790bfce7acd4a76b5cf12d3.jpg
it's alot thinner & i gained some length back..

Not even as close to as stiff as it was before.. before
2f89e7b12350eeb4ce1948305d8add09.jpg


Now.. flexes under own weight.
05ace08218f47ba3d77ec7bd1bacb2ee.jpg



Now because your saying i can still use this thing, I'm going to pull the bury again & take a peek at how the taper looks. I'll post up but i think they will be the same as the third picture.. Now, once I'm in there your suggesting i should just even things out if i haven't already? The uneveness is your concern?

Now that I'm looking at it again, I think the width is pretty even, Im concerned your suggesting is based off of pictures you haven't seen yet & possibly what it looked like after the original bury.. i just can't see right now whether i posted the second bury yesterday in my previous replies.. I just don't want to take too much out seeing as original instructions were asking for a 8in X-over & two locked brummels. Right now i got a pretty thin fid length missing 6 strands half way into it.

Take a look at these newer second bury pics above & let me know if you still feel the same..

Also, i don't know how to disassemble & braid . Haven't tackled that yet.
 
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Samson and NER had instructions for splicing solid braid 12 strand. It's similar to 3 strand, as the strands are tucked along the outside of the rope. Unravel the tail and pair up two strands that twist in opposite directions, do the others to get six pairs. Form the eye and pass three of the pairs through the rope, like a brummel. The pairs then go over one strand and under two, dropping out strands gradually to taper it at the end.

The other three use the Marlowbraid splice. The Vega splice is the same type. The HTP was the hardest and I had to use a splice that has the cover brummel to the other side. I've seen these types of splices in a couple other sources with slight variations.
 
@moss I need to correct a correction I made in another thread, but can't remember, or find which one. You were correct in calling HTP and other ropes like it parallel core. The laid, or twisted strands run parallel inside the cover. I was mistaking referring to another parallel type of construction , which I think is called unilateral parallel.
 
Brocky said:
Some recent splices, from left TrueBlue, 10mm HTP, 9.2mm Bluewater Dominator, and Sterling 9mm RIT
View attachment 53307
Click to expand...
So Brock.. what are those for? They look too pretty for tree work.. are they some sort of dog bone shackle?

I have AllGears Forestry Pro Glo & been wondering about a single splice to attach something for knotless rigging.. but the instructions make my head spin.. is it easier once you get into it?

What's weird is I can look at Splicing instructions all day but the drawings of the real technical stuff fuck me up.. idk why as i can look at that same drawing but in picture form & completely understand it.. Like Samson vs Teufelberg instructions..

Either way... Pretty cool stuff man.. pretty cool..!!

I'd like to see more of the parallel core splices.. I've always liked the 9m RIT & wanted to try it but the whole splicability thing had kept me away..

I also would like to see a Dreanaline Slaice or something to that nature..

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It is a flip line and mini ddrt system. It is great for rec climbing and some pruning jobs. I have a shorter rig for removals, which doesn't get much use these days. It works well with my main ddrt system.
 
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The toggles are for knotless rigging and canopy anchor climb line. The rigging dogbone has an experimental splice mostly just two locked brummels, with a 1/2" bolt. I'm not sure about the Rit, I used it for the mushy cover so that the very stiff 7mm Mammut Pro cord would work on it.
 
Santiago Casanova said:
View attachment 53363
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So what's this Casanova? Never thought I'd see you flying on sewn cordage? Or is it more flexible this way..? (just suits your needs better)? I've never really gotten into the hitch climber so I'm not sure if it's disadvantages, etc using one splice over another.. flexibility/Cordage taper is the first thing that comes to mind as I'm sure you trust your work.

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Brocky said:
The toggles are for knotless rigging and canopy anchor climb line. The rigging dogbone has an experimental splice mostly just two locked brummels, with a 1/2" bolt. I'm not sure about the Rit, I used it for the mushy cover so that the very stiff 7mm Mammut Pro cord would work on it.
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Dude.. that a really great DIY idea.. I seen those dog bones all over the place in sailing catalogs, i know it wouldn't be long before i came across them here..

So do they have to maintain a weighted configuration to stay on? Have you ever manipulated then to come off inadvertantly?

I'm trying to visualize how the one with wood works, but I'm not seeing it..

Also..I kinda accidentally bought this huge steel ring from tree stuff, i wanted something rated that my pinto would fit through but this thing is just huge.. i don't think I'll be using it as i thought i was.. how about y'all give me a few ideas.. girth it.. splice it .. some sort of knotless rig config? Idk.. I'm at a crossroads whether to return or use..

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The dogbones are very secure. It would be hard for them to come out on their own.
The wood one is a lanyard with the carabiner removed for the picture. Below the wood piece is the friction hitch. It is small cord, so I use the wooden, Cinch Samaritan to make it easier to push the hitch down to descend.
 
Brocky said:
The toggles are for knotless rigging and canopy anchor climb line. The rigging dogbone has an experimental splice mostly just two locked brummels, with a 1/2" bolt. I'm not sure about the Rit, I used it for the mushy cover so that the very stiff 7mm Mammut Pro cord would work on it.
Click to expand...

So hey.. if your getting two locked brummels on that bolt dogbone, you could essentially do the same for a rig n' wrench... right? What I mean is, when your trying to do two "locked" brummels on a ring or anything in closed loop shape, you can't perform the second locking brummel as it's impossible to get the Cordage around it. However since that dogbone isn't a loop you can create a traditional Locked Brummel on the ring side & then do a McDonald on the bone side & slide the dogbone in before setting..

Is that what you did? I been trying to figure a safe splice for a Rig n Wrench tether & i think you just gave me an idea.. As I could do a traditional lock around the becket & then just slide the wrench pin through a McDonald.. I could also probably get a 3 or 4 inch bury for both ends in there without the tether becoming wicked long. It would all be pretty short & hard to work with Id bet, but I'm pretty sure it would be doable..
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
So hey.. if your getting two locked brummels on that bolt dogbone, you could essentially do the same for a rig n' wrench... right? What I mean is, when your trying to do two "locked" brummels on a ring or anything in closed loop shape, you can't perform the second locking brummel as it's impossible to get the Cordage around it. However since that dogbone isn't a loop you can create a traditional Locked Brummel on the ring side & then do a McDonald on the bone side & slide the dogbone in before setting..

Is that what you did? I been trying to figure a safe splice for a Rig n Wrench tether & i think you just gave me an idea.. As I could do a traditional lock around the becket & then just slide the wrench pin through a McDonald.. I could also probably get a 3 or 4 inch bury for both ends in there without the tether becoming wicked long. It would all be pretty short & hard to work with Id bet, but I'm pretty sure it would be doable..
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Just a heads up on the rig-n-wrench, the commercially sold tether is only about 4" long. Not that it can't be longer, but I'm sure a test somewhere showed that a short stiff tether was more reliable.

If you want to make your own tether, probably the easiest way would be to use one of these https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=21&item=1860 with a girth on each end. Then stiffen it with tape or shrink tubing.
 
If you're using a bolt, another way would be to do the locked brummel tightly on the bolt, take the bolt out, and then do the locked brummel on the becket. The first eye will pass through the rope, with a little work, to form the second Brummel. If a toggle, with larger ends than the middle, the method you described would be better. Whipping/seizing will make the eye tight to the dogbone.
 
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