Tips and Tricks

Everyone else I work with uses two lanyards on the same side with two adjusters/biners/ropes and that seems like a huge jumble. I have about 3-4 feet daisy chained right at the tail cause I rarely need that much slack. When not in use I then daisy chain the lanyard in front of the adjuster and it hangs really neat compact totally out of the way and is super easy to undo when I need it. Something I've always wondered, maybe yall can give me a solid answer on, is when that lanyard in front of the adjuster is daisy chained is that okay to use? The lanyard in this configuration is easily big enough to use for most spar work and eliminates all slack hanging in the tail.
 
I really like how streamlined that all looks and esp the single line application. That looks awesome! I have some extra rope and maybe I'll give that a try.
 
Who said that there's a regulation about lanyards on opposite sides? I've never read one. Npersonal preference as far as I'm concerned.

I'd never have a lanyard on my right where my handsaw/chainsaw are parked
 
Tom Dunlap said:
Using an ascender as a rope clamp in a mechanical advantage system is NOT a good idea!

They are NOT made to take loads of 2:1 and beyond. Over the years the only time I've seen ropes damaged in MA systems is when they're used as anchors.

The reason to use friction hitches is that they will slip/grab and not damage the host/base rope.

Use tools within their design factors.
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Tom you make good points.
With MA each part of the chain needs to be examined to check the load. I totally agree that friction hitches are much more rope friendly.
I think one very important point here in pre-tension to the porti is that you begin to mix climbing gear and rigging gear, keep them separate and I think a hand ascender will work in this 2:1. again, like you said a prusik or friction hitch is probably a better idea or a rope grab that will slip first like a shunt or other toothless rope grabs.
The Petzl hand ascender is ok on a 2:1 and has a breaking strength of 6.5kN or around 1400 pounds. Probably not going to get exceeded from a couple of guys giving a pull and it is quick to install. The wire gate revolver also would work here IMO.

Again, good points Tom and maybe some things guys don't think about much when you start to work with MA.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
Who said that there's a regulation about lanyards on opposite sides? I've never read one. Npersonal preference as far as I'm concerned.

I'd never have a lanyard on my right where my handsaw/chainsaw are parked
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Yeah, definitely not saying there's a right and wrong way, but just making sure he knows the other options, and that the traditional 2&1 lanyard has been greatly improved upon.

I like lanyard @ left hip too but I keep my handsaw there as well.
 
There are all kinds or ways to dress the end of your climb line.
This has become my favorite.
I use adhesive 3:1 shrink tube, red. Shrink it to the line leaving about a 1/4 inch overhang, then fill that overhang nub with dimensional fabric paint.
Makes for a clean end and a nice attachment for the throw line. Helps the line clear small stuff, screw links, left in place cambium savers etc.

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I had an idea for a cap to plug the bottom of tsurugi scabbards so one could pour alcohol in it for disinfecting. Yesterday a coworker took a spare and used goop to plug it. I used it today and it worked well.
 
Haul up a hard hat as a decoy if you need to make a cut in a tree with aggressive bees like European Hornets- worked for me. leave it hanging near the nest like you are hanging a lowering rope.
 
If you coil rope, coil it like they do in the Navy; normal overhand loop then an underhand loop alternating. When the rope pays out it has no rope twist. This is also the best way to throw rope.
 
Treezybreez said:
If you coil rope, coil it like they do in the Navy; normal overhand loop then an underhand loop alternating. When the rope pays out it has no rope twist. This is also the best way to throw rope.
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I call it "reverse alternate folding". Use it for sailing, audio and power cables - well anything really. Particularly good on long cables because it stops the cores getting mangled!
 
Found at a speleology shop:

A 7 mm (9/32") Maillon can be used as a wrench for a 10 mm (7/16"). There is a "Large Opening" lightweight Zicral (= aluminum alloy) version available.

Be warned if you are an esthete. Because of the small contact surface you can get notches in the screw nut of the big Maillon.

Howie
 

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Paul Hedderly said:
I call it "reverse alternate folding". Use it for sailing, audio and power cables - well anything really. Particularly good on long cables because it stops the cores getting mangled!
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I've been doing that with powercords for a very long time, I didn't know there was a name for it. The end result is, no net turns.
 
Treezybreez said:
If you coil rope, coil it like they do in the Navy; normal overhand loop then an underhand loop alternating. When the rope pays out it has no rope twist. This is also the best way to throw rope.
Click to expand...

I saw this here, but haven't fully incorporated it. I seems to work well, but you do look like an idiot wrapping it around your neck. :spiderman:
 
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