Where to put your lanyard when negative rigging?

If you have a rookie roper, tie in under your rigging sling. Since my experience, although I was not hurt, I will always tie in under. I'd rather take a ride at the top and/or have my lanyard pinched once in a while, than take a ride to the ground.
 
16 years of flipping in tight under the sling,wire core is gonna be more complicated if you get locked down by the load(obviously).i have 2 non wire lanyards on my saddle but like frash said,i too keep my climb setup just above knee level for emergency,never had any though. I used to get locked in often back when i would just tye in 1nce with only wire core lanyard.
 
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Sgriff said:
16 years of flipping in tight under the sling,wire core is gonna be more complicated if you get locked down by the load(obviously).i have 2 non wire lanyards on my saddle but like frash said,i too keep my climb setup just above knee level for emergency,never had any though. I used to get locked in often back when i would just tye in 1nce with only wire core lanyard only.
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Even if my lanyard were to get pinned under the sling during an emergency, I can ditch the lanyard and repell down the climbing line.
 
My climb line is always cinched above my rigging sling

Lanyard is directly below rigging sling when higher up on the spar where there can potentially be a lot of flex and bouncing around going on.

As I get to the heavy stuff down low where the spar is generally quite stiff while negative rigging, my lanyard and climb line both go above the sling.

I don't know which way is right but that seems to work for me.
 
I don't think I always do it one way or the other. Depends on the shape of the tree, where the bumps and knots are, where the branch collars are. Sometimes one just works better than the other. But after watching the rigging line hop onto the wrong side of a nub and burn 1/2 way thru my climbing line while they were lowering it (yes I was also lanyarded in) I'm much more careful about rope positioning and separations. But I've only climbed 2 trees, so I'm sure not the veteran you're looking for. :)
 
I was taught to keep everything above to avoid pinching or severing your line. To avoid losing my lanyard off the top, I'll make a full wrap around the spar with it before making the final cut.
 
Homegrown said:
Was having a conversation with a friend about bucking in above or below the rigging sling. I was at a rigging seminar and they mentioned that it was important to keep your lanyard above the rigging sling to prevent textile on textile contact (lanyard being burnt threw by the rigging line when the piece is allowed to run).

Our conversation moved on to some other good reasons to stay below the rigging sling as well.

So what are the real veterans thoughts on this subject, why is one better or worse than the other. For safety reasons or just common sense reasons help shed some useful light on a important subject.
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This is a question I've pondered for decades. In fact, there's an article here http://portal.treebuzz.com/downloads-page (last one down) that was a reprint from one I wrote earlier for TCI magazine. Check the date on that! And after all of these years I still feel the same as I wrote about. I would also say that the two most important things to remember are not where you are tied in, but that you have 2 systems in place anywhere around the rigging, and that they are choked and ready for a quick escape. Above, below, one up one down - not as important to me. I think we all should make the decision there that best suites our needs and gives the confidence you need to do your job.
 
I set up my choking climb line set up above the rigging and my positioning lanyard under the rigging sling but above the block. This allows quick descent down the climb line if needed.
My blocking method is as follows. Choking SRT setup, descend to next cut, lanyard in, cut face cut, set block, pull down climbing line and set above sling and block, lanyard is under sling but above block (only sling contact), tie up piece, make sure everybody's ready, make back cut. Repeat.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
Lanyard above rigging sling and climb line below at my knees/shins. Like described above. Been at it 24 years. Never seen the rigging line burn the climb line. I could see that happening on a vertical spar if the groundies are wrapping the rigging line around he stem, keeping the line against the bark. But I always use a lowering device of some kind. Second scenario I see would be on a stem with a lean and the climber putting the block on the low angle side instead of overhanging side which would be mistake. I feel I have better control when I make the cut at stomach to chest height. So my lanyard being high helps that. There is a lot of force at the block and I feel safer with my lanyard above it and my climb line way below. The lanyard popping off the stem is a legit concern, but that's why you tie in twice. Furthermore I am ready for the stem to move and brace accordingly. This is a great conversation because details really matter.
 
frashdog said:
I have always run a steel core lanyard.
I always lanyard below rigging.
Climbing line SRT choked around tree near my shins/knees.
I like my eyes at the level of the cut. I'm very concerned about making sure I do not cut my holding wood, nor leave too much.

Flip side...
Here is reason to lanyard above rigging. Guy that worked for me last year had his lanyard around the rigging line and did not know it. At around 90' after topping the tree, he sent a 12' log that we figured was close to 400lbs. The log slapped right under him and just hung. It pulled him into the spar. I had to climb up and cut the rigging line, as he was pinned and unable to do anything. Actually he was able to scream still, a lot. The only thing that kept him from getting seriously hurt was a small stub he left that his lanyard got hung on, preventing the full load to be delivered to his saddle.
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With all respect , I am not running my saw at face level . I like the cut at between chest and stomach level. With a big saw you have way better control. Agreed I use a wire core for spar work.
 
Top to bottom
Tie of piece
Notch
Lanyard
Climbing line
Rigging sling
Porti sling

I do it this way (above) because I once had a top hang up but the butt was into the system and my climbing line and lanyard was under the sling pinched and I was stuck until another climber climbed an adjacent tree to cut tips free.

I put my lanyard above my climbing line because I once had a new groundies pull a top sideways and the other guy ran it but it was over my rope lanyard not into the rigging and it melted over half way through so now I keep my climbing line below for that reason
 
Worthaug said:
I set up my choking climb line set up above the rigging and my positioning lanyard under the rigging sling but above the block. This allows quick descent down the climb line if needed.
My blocking method is as follows. Choking SRT setup, descend to next cut, lanyard in, cut face cut, set block, pull down climbing line and set above sling and block, lanyard is under sling but above block (only sling contact), tie up piece, make sure everybody's ready, make back cut. Repeat.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
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Glad you said that. Im pretty new to climbing but when I'm blocking down i like to have a line above to work my notch then retrieve my line. Especially on a leaner or awkward stem.
My mentor hates it because he thinks I'm about to cut my tip all the time....
 
Kris Anderson said:
Glad you said that. Im pretty new to climbing but when I'm blocking down i like to have a line above to work my notch then retrieve my line. Especially on a leaner or awkward stem.
My mentor hates it because he thinks I'm about to cut my tip all the time....
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I'm not sure you are talking about the same thing as reed. What I would say is stop what you are doing immediately. You're gonna cut yourself out of the tree. Stop stop stop
 
I did this when I first started and still do on awkward and big stuff . It was a good way to learn how to be meticulous about every action while rigging. And it also stimulates good communication with your groundie. It places you in a good work position, which is a huge advantage while you're getting used to running a bigger saw in the tree.
 
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