What is your saw sharpening station like?

I gutted a 24’ camper trailer 1.5 yrs ago and trenched power to it from the house. Decked in painted osb (free from a jobsite), framed some shelves/hooks mouse-proofed etc. 36” bar for scale. I like sharpening saws in a vise and in a shop, do mult saws in one go and have any tools on hand for repairs plus air compressor.

Campers are cheap, weather proof, have working windows, and easy to transport for when you buy and when you sell. With the camper, 250’ coil of romex for power, a couple bought metal shelves, paint, fasteners, vise, fire extinguisher etc I have about 4k into it Hoping for a barn/shop in a few yrs.View attachment 89886View attachment 89887
Sexy saw!
 
I’m surprised at the lack of grinding. I hand file on the job site occasionally with the saw in my lap, in my garage in a vice, and on an Oregon grinder mounted on a bench in my garage. I like the grinder to restore perfect angles and it’s a good opportunity to dress the bar, lube the needle bearing, and blow out buildup.
 
My vise station was fabricated using a 2" receiver hitch welded to the frame of the chipper on the passenger side. using the space between the bumper of the chip truck and chipper keeps the person out of the traffic lane.

The horizontal part of the vice stand was built so it could be used in any of the trailer receivers too. It was tall enough so that the bar was at a comfortable height. About waist level.
 
Yes, though the powerhead in toward the chipper and nose away, somewhat, will give you more working room at the nose of the bar.

Keeps you from leaning over the chock holder.
 
Yes, though the powerhead in toward the chipper and nose away, somewhat, will give you more working room at the nose of the bar.

Keeps you from leaning over the chock holder.
Thanks southsound. I've got that 3 foot tall round stock bar on fender the cones ride on, hard to see in pictures and the vise isn't tall enough so large powerhead can't fit well in way your describing only on side the way I've pictured. If I could turn vise more without spare tire there it would work id bet.. I've only flipped top handles in past with short bars, so power head didn't mess up line of file stroke, never had problem upright on longer bars. The cone bar actually can act as the rest to steady the chainsaw bar when filing from that side and spare tire does same when faced other way. It's near belly button height, not uncomfortable or leaning too far into it for a short guy probably perfect . I'm 6'3" and need bit of athletic leg spreading to get me where I'm not bent over, but for decent spot on the job, so far so good. Only thing is like @Tom Dunlap alluded to having on passenger side would be better for traffic purposes, but there is already a box mounted that fender side.
 
My eyes have gotten so old/bad that I file on a board on my mill table, raised up another foot from standard bench top height. Saves the back from bending over. Don't use the vice, but set the chain constantly slop free in the bar groove with my left hand while filing with my right hand. I cant the file a bit to match the new 90 angle. New sharp files keep the push force down so the saw doesn't skid around. Dremel disc for the rakers. Two wall mounted luxo lamps on the mill table for lighting at the perfect angle.
 
I'd love to see how @Mark Chisholm and @treebing do it
I am not heavy into big removals, but I have moved to a philosophy of field sharpening. Keep chains on the saws until they are completely spent. Someone is ussually putting an edge on something while others struggle with throwlines. Hit a nail, just sharpen it. I really like the stihl file rigs that get the rakers at the same time. They seem easy enough for anyone to use which is their main appeal to me. There is a decent vise on our chipper. I used to think that time is money and I would pack extra chains so when one got dull I would just swap in a new chain, but I always ended up with a mountain of chains and no motivation to sharpen them.
I do have the chainmeister to carry extra bar and chain so I can swap between sizes for one saw and also still sharpen a chain that is not on the saw while in the field.
I love the chainmeister for that. I try to keep everything reasonably sharp in the field. It's been a while since I sharpened a saw at the shop or at home.
 
I sharpen my chains after every job. Every job, even if is a 10 minute job. I find a light touch up after cutting is way easier than waiting until they dull. Even if they seem sharp, I still touch them up.
For my round file jobs I use what @treebing uses.
Note: They are all the same. Buy it with Stihl's name on it and it cost $45. Without Stihl's name I have seen them for $11. Same tool with same files. Pferd sells theirs in blue color for about $38. Still the same tool but they use their files. I have many different ones and can't tell one from another in terms of use or longevity.
They are fast, accurate, and take care of the rakers all in one shot. All my saws over 50cc have square ground chains, and I find sharpening those to be relaxing for me. Takes good light and I have to pay attention to what I am doing. Knowing I have done a good job is rewarding, even if it is trivial in the grand picture. If I am extremely tired I will sometimes wait until the next day to sharpen, but it will be the first project of the day. Except for hitting a spike or other hunk of steel, keeping them sharp is such a quick job that it has just become part of every project, like putting in bar oil.
 
When I get the lighting right I can see the cutter corner form if it was damaged, see the whole top edge is all good and also see the reference tooth angle mark. I stay 30 or 35 or whatever it is. Stlhl chain.

Don't you guys get hardened rakers nuking your file teeth? That was my problem. Heard Oregon chain is softer, maybe it never gets any hardened rakers.
 
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So I've been kind of MIA from the forums as I've been out of work due to injuries (shoulder than back), but I did just install a light at my sharpening bench in my mini-shop building. This is of course in addition to the main overhead lights that honestly provided plenty, but more is better right??

00 sharp light.jpg
 

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