Tree versitile saddle

The strength of 16 strand is in the cover. The core is only for shape. It's very easy to pull it out. I love it for my bridge, way better than the green TM bridge. That is about the only thing of the tree motion that I want to modify is the bridges. After March. The hollow 16 strand gets like a nice rectangular flat lay that runs very smooth.
I also like the 16 strand because what you see is what you get. When you inspect it, if you don't like what you see, don't use it. On a lot of these bridges, you can't see the part that is doing the actual work.
 
As for splicing, I much prefer knots on these saddles. Splicing is too permanent and hard to adjust. It also increases the cost of the saddle outrageously If you go at a 20$ a pop splice. Also you can end up tieing up good hardware. Tenex splicing would make sense but not so much the 16 strand. I just like the ideas of just taking the pads and a piece of rope and tieing up a saddle. Double fishermans and buntlines hitches
 
Thanks for responding so much kevin! so when you said you made a saddle with 16 strand, u didn't use splices but instead knots without the inner core? One more question: Could you use 16 strand without the inner core as a bridge on a tree motion? or is that not a good idea?
 
TylerHoffman said:
Thanks for responding so much kevin! so when you said you made a saddle with 16 strand, u didn't use splices but instead knots without the inner core? One more question: Could you use 16 strand without the inner core as a bridge on a tree motion? or is that not a good idea?
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You could, but why? The lower d's are setup for stopper knots not splices...
Velocity makes a nice bridge for the TreeMo, btw.
 
I would swap out 16 strand for my bridge on a TM in a heartbeat and use stopper knots just like it is set up. But swap out the green cordage.
 
Worthaug said:
Seems like more texture = more abasion. This is true with sandpaper.
But I see what you're saying with a hollow 16 strand.
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Less PSI? That's what I was thinking. Flattened out seems like it would spread wear over a wider area and take longer? I don't know, just a hunch.
 
I also think the core-less 16 strand would be easier on hard'wear'...spread out the surface area... just like on the cambium of a tree - the wider the better.

What about the Hydra for decreasing friction on the bridge? Is the expense the only downside...and the bulk? I have one on my TM and I really like having the swivel incorporated and having 3 attachment points. Maybe I'm on the wrong page, but I feel this decreases the wear on everything. I just got it, so I can't give a solid verdict on how I feel about it on day to day operation.
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=135&item=3610
 
Worthaug said:
You could, but why? The lower d's are setup for stopper knots not splices...
Velocity makes a nice bridge for the TreeMo, btw.
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I meant splices on the tree versatile saddle to make it look clean. For the tree motion, i meant using coreless 16 strand as a bridge with stopper knots as its already is setup.
 
I've got 10 mm HTP on my TM bridge currently, works at least as well as globe 3000, maybe better because its all poly. I preferred 16 strand on my cougar, wonder of core-less 16 strand would fit through the holes on TM?
 
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