This is the Akimbo

oldoakman said:
I wonder if that set up would change the WWL dynamics for the rope loading/slippage that is published with the device? Might make it viable for we full figured climbers.
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If I were to run it that way I’d have the wrench on the biner and not the tending hole. It was more of a smart assed jab, but it really is something to try.

So day one thoughts are it’s fucken awesome. It worked great for the first half of the climb, then it became jerky. This could be because my rope started getting moist, or the tail weight changed the friction? Granted I could have had it snug, wasn’t exactly a low and slow job, but wasn’t a 100’ climb either
 
Testing out the new gear. Low and slow!

On my initial hang test, using my new Akimbo, I tested three ropes, not listed on the approved list. The Sterling HTP 7/16" held me, but only when I found the right setting shown below. Of the three ropes: Sterling HTP 7/16 was the best. I haven't yet found a sweet spot for either Edelrid Performance Static 11mm or Samson Preditor 11.4, without slippage. I had the HTP setting just past mid way on the upper arm, and cranked tight on the lower arm. The ropes tend to flatten a lot.

The RAD system worked well too on the HTP.

I'll probably feel better using the Akimbo on an "approved" 11.8 or 12.5mm diameter static climbing line. Until then I'll keep testing and practicing until I'm 100% sure it'll not slip, before I depart from the hang-test zone.

It's important to get everything nicely dialed in. I weighed in at 230lbs, with gear on.

#Akimbo #RockExotica #Wesspur #treeclimbing
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evo said:
If I were to run it that way I’d have the wrench on the biner and not the tending hole. It was more of a smart assed jab, but it really is something to try.

So day one thoughts are it’s fucken awesome. It worked great for the first half of the climb, then it became jerky. This could be because my rope started getting moist, or the tail weight changed the friction? Granted I could have had it snug, wasn’t exactly a low and slow job, but wasn’t a 100’ climb either
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Could be you need to open up the bottom settings a bit. There is a bit of a break in period still as the machine marks on the cams wear smooth.
 
JMerritt said:
Could be you need to open up the bottom settings a bit. There is a bit of a break in period still as the machine marks on the cams wear smooth.
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I assume that this is the case. It progressively went from super smooth to jerky over 3-4 hours of climbing. This and getting the settings dialed in, and use to a new toy

One question. The manual states that there need to be distance between the two cams on decent mode. How much is ideal? When it was smooth it was about a fat 1/2”, kinda feels a little too collapsed. True?

I need a tutorial!

I second surveyor comment about the sharp flare on the lower bollard.

AS for the slop, I think RE went over board, if I turn be whole thing on it’s side to see what setting I’m on, it just drops down. Maybe some sort of retaining spring, where the bollard needs to be pulled to adjust and the snaps into place. Just constructive criticism.

dsptech said:
Jerky on decent?
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It progressively became jerky, but it was sprinkling and about 25-30 mph sustained winds. Things got a little damp and crudy. I do see the potential of getting it dialed in.
 
evo said:
I assume that this is the case. It progressively went from super smooth to jerky over 3-4 hours of climbing. This and getting the settings dialed in, and use to a new toy

One question. The manual states that there need to be distance between the two cams on decent mode. How much is ideal? When it was smooth it was about a fat 1/2”, kinda feels a little too collapsed. True?

I need a tutorial!

I second surveyor comment about the sharp flare on the lower bollard.

AS for the slop, I think RE went over board, if I turn be whole thing on it’s side to see what setting I’m on, it just drops down. Maybe some sort of retaining spring, where the bollard needs to be pulled to adjust and the snaps into place. Just constructive criticism.



It progressively became jerky, but it was sprinkling and about 25-30 mph sustained winds. Things got a little damp and crudy. I do see the potential of getting it dialed in.
Click to expand...
I definitely thought about trying to spring load the bollards so they snap closed. I had to draw the line somewhere and adding more springs just brings the cost up. By flare on the bottom cam do you mean the edges of the concave face that contacts the rope?
 
JMerritt said:
I definitely thought about trying to spring load the bollards so they snap closed. I had to draw the line somewhere and adding more springs just brings the cost up. By flare on the bottom cam do you mean the edges of the concave face that contacts the rope?
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No.. Lower bollard sheeve retaining flare.
And I totally understand needing to draw the line somewhere with the could do this or thats..
I am really happy, and kicked my self in the ass for stalling too long on the gofund me..
 
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