Stihl 026 Questions

You questioned base gasket, have you put eyes on cylinder base and made sure screws were tight and gasket was present?

Check fuel line if you haven't. The original 026 line was short and didn't reach all the way to bottom of fuel tank. So it would starve for fuel before tank was empty. This could potentially cause a stalling issue when turned on side as well.
 
Rob Stafari said:
You questioned base gasket, have you put eyes on cylinder base and made sure screws were tight and gasket was present?

Check fuel line if you haven't. The original 026 line was short and didn't reach all the way to bottom of fuel tank. So it would starve for fuel before tank was empty. This could potentially cause a stalling issue when turned on side as well.
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The gasket is present, didn't check the screw tightness.
Yep, my 026 has the old line, and I'm aware of the problem, I actually had that happen to me in a tree, and I thought: "Shit, here we go again..." before noticing the fuel was that low. As far as I'm aware you can't just stick a longer one in there though, because the hole in the housing is a different size. Is that correct?

I was going to do the pressure check today, but with my luck of course I was sent a defective pump, so I only put in a new intake boot, and started it up. Much to my surprise, it works in all positions, but there is an increase in RPMs when turned on the flywheel side. It does not like being turned back from there really fast, although it doesn't shut off usually. This was also my first time using a tachometer to tune the carb. I used 2800 for idle and 14000 for high speed, does that need to change because my muffler is modded?
 
For the new line you have to enlarge the hole to 23/64. Carefully of course, as if you let it get out of round or too large it will leak and cause more headaches. Done properly, well worth the time.

Make sure you test pressure and vacuum. A lot of those smaller stihl seals tend to leak under vacuum only. Also rotate crank while testing. Wouldn't hurt to do so in varying positions to make sure if no leak is initially showing. These old 026's are notorious for the issues you are having though.

I have a tach, but only tune my double ended chainsaw mill with it, so the two powerheads are tuned the exactly the same and tuned super rich. Everything else I tune by ear. Should have a burbling rich sound out of the wood and clean up under load for the H side. L and LA are finding the sweet spot between idling correctly and have good responsive throttle response.

Definitely sounds like a crank seal though. Increase in RPM when turned on side is one of the tell tale signs...
 
I think I'll hold off on enlarging that fuel line hole.

Will do on the testing in different positions and such. Still waiting on a reply from the dealer on exchanging my pump.

Ok, I'll just go back to tuning by ear, at least for the L and LA side.

Maybe I did something wrong when changing the crank seals? I just hope I didn't damage the crankshaft or the crankcase. Maybe I should invest in the OEM installation tools for them... And if I'm doing the seals again, I'll probably just open up the crankcase, change all the seals and check on the bearings too. That also saves me the hassle of getting out the seals from the outside...
 
Those tiny seals can be a pain, but doable even with some homemade tools. If you aren't going to use them a lot, the farmertec clone tools might be worth looking at. Not big on most aftermarket saw parts, but for tools that will hardly get used, it is worth a look. Some of the oem ones are pricey.

Opening up the crankcase is a lot more work, and more tools needed. If you do I would consider new bearings while you're in there. They are cheap compared to the time spent getting to them if you are going to be right there already.
 
If I open up the crankcase I get to replace everything that could be the issue. Not sure if I'm going to use the aftermarket seals I have, or if I'll go completely OEM.
That bearing puller looks like it could work. I just replaced my cheap screwdrivers with a set by Wera, so I have plenty of stock to make one of those. Also, I just broke my favorite pair of needlenose pliers getting the seal out, so maybe a seal puller will save me some tools...
On that note, does anyone know of a quality pair of small, very narrow, but relatively long needlenose pliers? Preferably with a slightly curved tip?
 
Rob Stafari said:
Crank seals... go oem. Case seals and cylinder seal, more debateable. Put a some oil/gas resistant sealer on them and I would use them.
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Would the high temp silicone you put on the crank seals be something to use on those? It only says oil resistant on mine...
But I'd probably just go oem there too, they're not expensive. I'm assuming I should get oem bearings as well, right?
 
Usually one of the stihl crank bearings is proprietary and there is no suitable replacement. The other is usually a standard 6202 C3 I believe, but might as well get both from the Stihlership.

I use motoseal which is available at most auto parts stores. Basically the same thing as yamabond. Stihl uses dirko, which I believe you have to get through them. There are some other options out there as well. If you get the oem gaskets I wouldn't worry about it unless the service manual calls for it.
 
Rob Stafari said:
Usually one of the stihl crank bearings is proprietary and there is no suitable replacement. The other is usually a standard 6202 C3 I believe, but might as well get both from the Stihlership.

I use motoseal which is available at most auto parts stores. Basically the same thing as yamabond. Stihl uses dirko, which I believe you have to get through them. There are some other options out there as well. If you get the oem gaskets I wouldn't worry about it unless the service manual calls for it.
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I have source for aftermarket bearings, but it's probably better to just go with oem.
Screenshot_2020-02-28-09-39-43.webp

No, you don't have to get Dirko through stihl. At least not here in Germany. I have an equivalent product by UHU, which is a german company. They are not low quality either.
 
I got the pump working now, everything seems to be tight. I did check the cylinder bolts again, I did get a liitle bit of movement on two of them, maybe that was the issue.
Didn't have a chance to run it for a bit yet.
 
Had it running and did some cuts with it, after a while the carb had adjusted itsself to where the throttle response was lagging. Could that be the carb, since everything was tight? The increase in RPMs on the side was still present.
 
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