Stihl 026 Questions

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
I just bought an 026, it ran fine at first, then it started getting problems and sometimes would not stay running, especially after some work. I retuned the carb (which is brand new), it worked a little while, then stated acting up again. So I decided to take the saw apart and clean it before doing anything else.
Which leaves me with the first question: Where does this part go? 20191105_104356.jpg 20191105_105251.jpg
I know I didn't take this off of somewhere, my only guess is it goes behindthe recoil spring, I did have that apart.
Also, if anybody knows where to get a service manual or IPL for free, I'd appreciate that info. I have one for the 034, I couldn't find that part there.
 

Rob Stafari

Active Member
Interesting, I have an 026 I have had apart and that piece doesn't look familiar. I glanced through the IPL quickly and it didn't stand out. Sent you a PM with some literature that may help. Googling the part number on it certainly didn't...
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I tried googling it too. The closest part was something on the clutch, but I can't see how it would go there.
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
So I got it running a little better now, to the point where it idles well, and won't shut off after touching the throttle. I can't seem to get the acceleration to be good though, and it bogs down really quickly in the cut. I'm new to all of this, so any advice is welcome.
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
I don't know why, but it's working flawlessly now. Idles well, and cuts well too, without me adjusting anything.
Anyway, now that it runs well, I want to do a muffler mod, because the ports it has are tiny. I am a little bit concerned about opening the internal baffle, I think that would be a straight path for sawdust and debris to get into the cylinder. My muffler does not have a spark arrestor or other rerouting of gases, it is a single wall.
Is getting stuff in through the exhaust even a concern? And where do you think I should drill or cut the additional holes? 20191102_125249.jpg 20191102_125238.jpg 20191102_125910.jpg 20191106_112743.jpg
 
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Rob Stafari

Active Member
The 026 I have is real finicky to get tuned at times. A lot of them have a little lip in the intake port of the cylinder that can pool fuel and make them that way. A little bit goes a long way when turning the carb screws. Trial and error is the best advice I have. Plus making sure you remember what you've done. And only turn one screw at a time then retest. You'll get the hang of it before long.

The biggest concern with no spark screen is mud wasps deciding they want to nest in the muffler, never a good thing. When it is running it will have enough outward pressure to not let anything of concern in. That thing would definitely like a little more area to breath. I would look into perhaps adding a deflector and spark screen while doing so. May be able to find just a muffler cover that is already set up for it too. Should be lots of parts around for that thing. Good little saws. Good looking one you got there too!
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
Going to revive this thread instead of starting a new one, since it's about the same saw. I'm having trouble getting the saw to run properly, the card adjustment seems to change by itself to the effect of the throttle response lagging. It generally idles very well, as long as the carb stays adjusted, however it shuts off immediately if I turn it on the bar/clutch side.
I just changed the crankshaft seals, the impulse line is new.
My guesses for potential causes are the carb (entire carb, the kit was new), the intake boot or the base gasket.
What do you guys think about this? Should I invest in a pressure testing device?
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
Looking at the intake boot, it looks perfectly ok, so I don't really think that's the issue. I think I am going to buy a pressure tester, to see where the issue is.
 

Rob Stafari

Active Member
I'd say invest in a pressure/vac tester. Sounds like symptoms of a crank seal leak. Of course you just replaced them, so they should be good. Bearings look and feel ok when you had them out? The mityvac 8500 is what is generally recommended by the real chainsaw gurus. Nice to have around for bleeding brakes too. Did you adjust the metering lever height when you replaced carb kit?
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
I'd say invest in a pressure/vac tester. Sounds like symptoms of a crank seal leak. Of course you just replaced them, so they should be good. Bearings look and feel ok when you had them out? The mityvac 8500 is what is generally recommended by the real chainsaw gurus. Nice to have around for bleeding brakes too. Did you adjust the metering lever height when you replaced carb kit?
What side would usually be the bad one if the saw shuts off on the clutch side?
I didn't take the bearings out.
The mityvac is pretty expensive over here, I was looking at one by a local online saw parts shop, that one only costs around 40€. It has pretty good reviews too.
I did "adjust" the metering lever height, although I just got lucky on that. I believe that was a topic im my "Rust in carburetor" thread.
 

Chaplain242

Well-Known Member
Haven’t had your issue but have read similar on one if the 2 stroke chainsaw tuning articles online and they specifically mention temperamental chainsaws often have leaking bearing seal, and it doesn’t always show up on the vac test (it’s temperamental...)

If everything else fails, change the bearings and seals and it could solve your issue...
 
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