Speed Ascent Setups

WaitakKauri

Well-Known Member
@TimBr
It creates friction with a bend inside the device rather than a moving cam. The release action is using leverage to rotate the entire device on the pivot of the carabinier so that the channel that the rope is in has less friction. Kind of genius.



I don't know, but I would like to be able to run it. I have a month to figure something out, and hopefully something as fast as the taz.
The 2017 itcc ascent tech brief mentioned it, but I'm not sure it's still ok.
 

SomethingWitty

Arkansawyer
I found that tech video. About 31:54 is where the two hand ascender question comes in.
If there have been changes, they are hard to find. The question is answered very clearly here though. This video is actually really baller. I found out about several viable systems that I was unaware of previously.
 

TimBr

Official Well Known Greeter
It creates friction with a bend inside the device rather than a moving cam. The release action is using leverage to rotate the entire device on the pivot of the carabinier so that the channel that the rope is in has less friction. Kind of genius.
This sounds a lot like the way that the Trango Cinch operates. Only it looks like they've figured out a way to make the rope run more freely through the Taz than it does through the Cinch. It has been a long time since I last tried to use the Cinch to climb with, but my vague recollection is that it did not tend slack as well as the Taz seems to do.

Tim
 

WaitakKauri

Well-Known Member
This sounds a lot like the way that the Trango Cinch operates. Only it looks like they've figured out a way to make the rope run more freely through the Taz than it does through the Cinch. It has been a long time since I last tried to use the Cinch to climb with, but my vague recollection is that it did not tend slack as well as the Taz seems to do.

Tim
The rope just drops through the Taz with these ascent systems. No rads configurations.
 

WaitakKauri

Well-Known Member
I found that tech video. About 31:54 is where the two hand ascender question comes in.
If there have been changes, they are hard to find. The question is answered very clearly here though. This video is actually really baller. I found out about several viable systems that I was unaware of previously.
Yes, there's some good nuggets in there.

You'll be interested in this blog post about ascenders as primary anchors.

Hand ascenders as a primary anchor - NO!

Personally, I think some communications to competitors about accepted systems would be useful, or even a YouTube from this year's ITCC. I know there's impracticalities in this - there are so many options, but something as a start would be good.

Otherwise, I hope people share their systems here so we can learn and improve.
 

moss

Well-Known Member
I think people rave about the use of the Cinch as a lanyard adjuster. @moss?

Tim
I've liked it as a Captain Hook progress capture paired with 10mm Reep Schnur. Currently prefer either the Rope Runner, BDB or similar multicender for the Hook line. The Cinch is a 2-hand release under load which makes it a pain as a lanyard adjuster.
-AJ
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Here is the cover that I showed above on True Blue. It went on fairly easy. An added bonus is, it doesn't seem to want to unravel, like a typical rope cover.
IMG_2103.JPG
The blue rope on the right is from a Beal Escaper, and shows how they sewed the tail for easy threading.
 
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SomethingWitty

Arkansawyer
That stuff is pretty cool.

The carabinier in your profile pic now is possibly the ugliest clip I have ever seen. Is it from the storric collection? It would fit right in.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
No, not from Gary's collection, he doesn't do carabiners. It's just been released from Madrock, and called the Gemini. Opening the non locking gate also opens the screwgate. Locking the screwgate also locks the other gate. I've been waiting my whole life for this type of carabiner! Seriously, the advanges are, things maybe less crowded with two separate sections. It might also help prevent cross loading.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
The literature says to only use it with a belay device. Seems like it would be good for the rock climbing harnesses, to keep the running rope away from the belay loop.
It's only five inches long, smaller than it appeared in pictures. That means if you cut off the non locking parts, you could get a locking carabiner two and a half inches long. Should have bought two!
 

WaitakKauri

Well-Known Member
Here is the cover that I showed above on True Blue. It went on fairly easy. An added bonus is, it doesn't seem to want to unravel, like a typical rope cover.
View attachment 54491
The blue rope on the right is from a Beal Escaper, and shows how they sewed the tail for easy threading.
Nice.
My thinking with this, as with you, was that it needs to be easy to feed the end on the line into it. That why I used a modified funnel to hold it open.
 
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WaitakKauri

Well-Known Member
I've been thinking more about a RW setup and I'm going to try something new.

I'm going to pre-install a line through my system (have done this, it works) with a tiny tiny biner on the end. My accent line has a 3mm accessory cord loop on the end of it with the rope end smooth'ish with heat shrink. With the loop, I can just hook it on and pull it through. This will be nice as currently I still have to close the pin on the RW as a separate step.

I'f this works, I see the biner/loop changing to some steel and super strong magnet. Or maybe a joint of some type. Having this on the end of my rope would provide something stiff to pickup and accurately place.

Earlier I tried the above using duct tape. It actually worked pretty good in the garage so long as the tape didn't get bumped and stuck to itself. I just didn't see it was going to work in the rain if my rope end got dirty.

Couple of grammer edits, I'm tired after a long fast bike race today
 
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SomethingWitty

Arkansawyer
I'm thinking I'll run a double hand ascender with a RW system clipped to it, double stationary lines, use a top handle saw powerhead as a weight if they will let me (I can throw one on a line faster than fooling with a cam), and just a foot ascender clipped on. If I can figure out how to set a step on my boot this week, I can basically marbar up. My rope walker game is pretty weak. Then only one cam comes off for changeover.
 

CanadianStan

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking I'll run a double hand ascender with a RW system clipped to it, double stationary lines, use a top handle saw powerhead as a weight if they will let me (I can throw one on a line faster than fooling with a cam), and just a foot ascender clipped on. If I can figure out how to set a step on my boot this week, I can basically marbar up. My rope walker game is pretty weak. Then only one cam comes off for changeover.
Make sure you collect that extra point for a backup! Can you throw a prussik above the hand ascender ?

I’ve also seen guys run a rope access style fall arrest device like the Petzl ASAP on the other static end (setup was a rope, halved, tied with a midline fig 8).
 

SomethingWitty

Arkansawyer
The double hand ascender on two lines gets me the backup points, or it would have last year.
I think it will set fast. Gonna play with it as soon as I bolt some steel plates to my old boots.
 

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