So as I ponder chippers you guys and gals get to answer all my annoying questions

I think having the gas tank on will help some also. Protection posts that double as a log dolly holder will also help. If I add a rear jack stand I figured I would also add a label by the key.

A label is good, a cone visible on a walk around... You may intend to chip more, then not. Fwiw.

My leg is super simple. One piece of pipe with a slightly smaller piece inside. One pin and cotter key, with many adjustment holes. The pin jams under the frame if it tips back a bit. No need for pressure, though the tongue jack can easily counter-pressure against the leg/foot. I disconnect sometimes for minimal feed tray height, maximum discharge height/ distance to chip pile or woods.


Nothing fancy, easily shop-made, possibly from scrap.

This is a picture of it stowed, with the pin and cotter key on top of the frame.
 

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I like it. I was just out measuring all the intakes and outlets for the air filter hoses, and the pre filter. Also got the exhaust pipe size so I can add a rain flipper. I want to get all that complete before I put the gas tank on and it becomes "In my way". I did find the tail light protection in the other toolbox but I need to check the wiring. I had trailer brake lights but I was outside the truck and the trucks lights were off. Something is not quite right with that, might just be the plug wiring. It looks newer than the chipper.
 
Just ordered;
Hoses for the air filter work
Rain flapper for the exhaust stack
Steel plate to mount the gas tank to the frame
Steel plate to fabricate the chip deflector
Steel tubing to fabricate the sliding post for the back of the frame support jack

Ordering little bites at a time. Otherwise I will just misplace it before I go to fabricate it.
 
Got the steel parts in and partially fabricated, should finish them up early next week hopefully. Then I can mount the fuel tank, rear jack post and chip deflector.

Still need to connect the carb to the air filter, I need to find somewhere I can rummage for ideas. I got a 2-5/16" carb intake that needs to mate with a 1-7/8" air filter outlet. Also need to find a 2-1/2" mushroom cap pre-filter. My 1-3/8" exhaust flapper will be here Monday.

Trailer plug has been rewired so the lights works. I have no idea what it was wired for but it certainly wasn't from this planet. Far worse than what we thought Mert.

Now for a question.... I am having a hard time seeing in the tank to determine which hose goes to the fuel pump and which one is the return line. Is the one by the cap the pull side and the far one the return or is it opposite? Thanks.
 
Got the steel parts in and partially fabricated, should finish them up early next week hopefully. Then I can mount the fuel tank, rear jack post and chip deflector.

Still need to connect the carb to the air filter, I need to find somewhere I can rummage for ideas. I got a 2-5/16" carb intake that needs to mate with a 1-7/8" air filter outlet. Also need to find a 2-1/2" mushroom cap pre-filter. My 1-3/8" exhaust flapper will be here Monday.

Trailer plug has been rewired so the lights works. I have no idea what it was wired for but it certainly wasn't from this planet. Far worse than what we thought Mert.

Now for a question.... I am having a hard time seeing in the tank to determine which hose goes to the fuel pump and which one is the return line. Is the one by the cap the pull side and the far one the return or is it opposite? Thanks.

Gasoline engine doesn't have a fuel return does it?
 
This one doesn't but I don't know about newer ones. The tank I got came off a diesel so it has 2 lines. The temp gas tank (5 gallon bucket) only has one line.
 
This one doesn't but I don't know about newer ones. The tank I got came off a diesel so it has 2 lines. The temp gas tank (5 gallon bucket) only has one line.
You just plug the return side once you determine which one it is. I'd probably put a couple gallons of gas in the tank and hook an electric fuel pump to one of the ports. If it picks the fuel up with the fuel level low, you are in business. If not, try the other one.
 
You just plug the return side once you determine which one it is. I'd probably put a couple gallons of gas in the tank and hook an electric fuel pump to one of the ports. If it picks the fuel up with the fuel level low, you are in business. If not, try the other one.

Lol, yep that was my first thought. I just figured there might be Bandit standard placement.
 
Watch youtube clips of Cyclone type precleaners for the air instead of the mushroom cap. Keeps the air filter cleaner for a lot longer.

Ebay has the various sizes from a guy that sells alot of Bandit parts.
 
I realize we're talking apples & oranges, but all of my BMW's have gas returns. Pumps run constantly, especially in 3 series with double sump fuel tanks, and return helps cool the pump.

The 150xp I owned for over 10 years didn't have a return. It was powered by a 4 cyl GM gas engine. It had a 12 volt, in line, low pressure fuel pump with no return line. Those pumps don't last forever, but they were only about $60. I always kept a new one in the truck, so when(not if) it went out, I would be back up and running in 5 min.
 
Still need to connect the carb to the air filter, I need to find somewhere I can rummage for ideas. I got a 2-5/16" carb intake that needs to mate with a 1-7/8" air filter outlet. Also need to find a 2-1/2" mushroom cap pre-filter. My 1-3/8" exhaust flapper will be here Monday.

Trailer plug has been rewired so the lights works. I have no idea what it was wired for but it certainly wasn't from this planet. Far worse than what we thought Mert.

Now for a question.... I am having a hard time seeing in the tank to determine which hose goes to the fuel pump and which one is the return line. Is the one by the cap the pull side and the far one the return or is it opposite? Thanks.

Maybe try a heat gun to expand the rubber hose to the larger carb fitting. It might take time and some elbow grease. Go slow so not to split the hose. If that doesn't work you can use that CNC to create a bushing to go from the smaller size to the larger. Or you could buy a larger filter. There is a thread of a guy that sells used chipper psrts, might be of some help to ya.
Glad to hear the wiring wasn't to bad, or at least fixable. Sometimes as long as they work guys don't care much about what's hooks to what.
With the fuel tank you could simply put a couple gallons into the tank and blow into each port. Whichever gives you bubbles, is the supply side. I'll look tomorrow but I'm almost positive the gas 1390 has a return, but it's also fuel injected so might be a different cat all together.
 
I'm anal about throwing rakings in my chippers my guys know it by now. It doesn't take much Sharp knives are so important to a chipper and production. My people I dump chips love my chips and some only take my chips because they are clean not a stringy mess like some.
 
My knives look and feel sharp but I priced them and anvils anyway. Wow, I now see why you guys never just shovel stuff off the ground in there. A couple stones will cost you big time, plus time down and labor.

That's one of the best things about the Sena head sets. I don't have to yell at the guys if they send crap through my machine (I still do for fun though). New knives aren't cheap, and neither is sharpening. But with forethought the down time can be minimized with proper pm scheduling and the right tools for changing the knives out.
I have yet to try it yet but the salesman gave me a knife dresser. I'm interested to see how much of a difference it can make.
 
Yes, big difference. As sharpness trails off (maybe six or eight hours of chipping) I use the dressing tool and when I start chipping next it is performing much better. Or when I have chipped brush from trees next to the ocean and sand is on them maybe dress after an hour or so of chipping.

Bottom line is about 100 hours on a edge of knives with them still chipping pretty well at time of flipping. (Obviously no rakings. )
 

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