So as I ponder chippers you guys and gals get to answer all my annoying questions

merle_nelson said:
Yes, big difference. As sharpness trails off (maybe six or eight hours of chipping) I use the dressing tool and when I start chipping next it is performing much better. Or when I have chipped brush from trees next to the ocean and sand is on them maybe dress after an hour or so of chipping.

Bottom line is about 100 hours on a edge of knives with them still chipping pretty well at time of flipping. (Obviously no rakings. )
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Wow 100hrs!! My old Morbark was so under powered I was lucky to get 50 from an edge (no edge dresser though). I even went as low as 5hrs the first day I had my mini on a job (I learned a lot that day). I went through the 1390 last night and its got 38.8 hrs and the knives still look great and I haven't noticed a drop in performance yet. Maybe I will dress them up before Thursdays crane removals and see how she goes.
Thanks guys for the information
 
monkeylove said:
Wow, I didn't realize they wore out that quickly. I can see why keeping a spare set around makes sense.
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It really depends on what's going through your machine. If you got guys stuffing rankings off the driveway through they don't last long. Dragging brush long distances with a forwarding grapple doesn't help either. Or chipping old nasty piles of brush for people.
Hours take a long time to accumulate to with small operations like ours. My Morbark received just over 500hrs in 8 years (only 1 full time). It still makes sense to have at least 1 spare set laying around. With the small machine I kept 4 sets and only once did I want to change knives and find have sharp ones (mostly my fault :endesacuerdo:).
 
DTS said:
Nice fab work you have to post a pic before and after completion the way your going it's going to look sweet when your done.
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Lol, not to sweet. I'm going for that used but loved look. I tried to make the new painted parts look good but not great. That would be like wearing your funeral shoes with a pair of old blue jeans.
 
Its good to have at least a second set on hand. When you have to send out for sharpening, its a week to two turn-around, if you're dropping off at a pick-up point (like a hardware store or builder's supply). I used to drop off for $1/ inch. Just found $0.50/ inch. Figure out the blade change before you need it. You might have rusted bolts, or need to find a torque spec, etc.
 
southsoundtree said:
Its good to have at least a second set on hand. When you have to send out for sharpening, its a week to two turn-around, if you're dropping off at a pick-up point (like a hardware store or builder's supply). I used to drop off for $1/ inch. Just found $0.50/ inch. Figure out the blade change before you need it. You might have rusted bolts, or need to find a torque spec, etc.
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You should change out bolts on your next knife change regardless of their apperant condition. You don't know there history so it's a cheap piece of mind.
 
Thanks, it's getting there. I got the carb intake hose today so that is next. Then I need to bend out the light and weld it followed by straightening the upper mount area of the pintle ring mounting area. That will take some serious heat and pounding. Might have to get some help with that one.
 
Well the fuel and air is all hooked up and working. I need to take a look at the carb, it has a drip coming from the air intake drain while it is running. It's a Zenith 9786D updraft carb and looking through some old school motor forums it sounds like either the float is heavy or needle adjustment is off, dirty, or leaking.
 
Found a rebuild kit and the optional adjustable main jet from a company out in Washington for a total of $80. Apparently these carbs were used on everything from A to Z from the 40's until the 80's. Multiple options depending on where it ended up. Should be a learning experience for sure.
 
96coal449 said:
You'll get it all running smooth. Good that it isn't peak season. :D
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Exactly why I started this adventure over the winter. The carb actually looks like new other than some surface rust. I did find that the gaskets are all dry rotted and worthless. I also found that the venturi sits proud not allowing the halves to mate properly. Work fine until to put the retaining screw in, looks like it needs a little mill work to align the screw holes. Both of those things would have certainly caused the fuel to get into places it was not supposed to be. My guess is that once fixed and reassembled it should work much better.
 
Well I put the carb back on today and got it started. I like the adjustable main jet, although I need to adjust it some more. Under power I am getting some popping which I did not have before. I think it is set a little lean at power but I have no extra fuel dripping. Idle is okay but I still get some drips at the intake drain. Some of the old school car guys say that is normal with updrafts, the rebuild instructions even say that "dripping fuel from the intake drain does not indicate that their is a problem, it is common with updraft carberators". I still don't like it or believe it so I may seek professional help with that. If that is truly the way they are then I will look at adding a drip tank that can be emptied. Fuel dripping on the ground is not okay in my book.
 
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