Smooth sliding friction hitch?

[Jesse]

I have been climbing for a little over three years now. The blake's hitch was what I learned on. It was a good hitch to learn on but tightened up too much, especially for competition. I switched to the swabish about a year ago and it is much better. But it still tightens up more than I would like. I hear the french prusick is the way to go but when I have tried it has scared me a little. It seems like when I advance it with my micro-pully it is not going to grab the climbing line. Does anyone have any sugestions?

 

[charlieb]

Try the Knut. It works fabulous! Especially with HRC cord which will not glaze or burn either itself or the rope.
There's been a lot of discussion about this already.
See the threads in Climbers Talk titled, Knut Revisited, HRC, and Trango Cinch.
Happy climbing.
CharlieB.

 

[huggybear]

Is this the knot you are talking about(this is unset)? I use this with 5 true wraps with this eye and eye and i weigh 185 pounds. Depending on weight you might want one more. You have to be careful with this knot though. It does not cross like the distel, vt, swabisch, or knut. It does slide very smooth and sometimes i have to set it before i put weight on it. I have used hrc and had to use 6 true wraps before it broke in, because it is much stiffer. But what works for one might not work for another. Good luck.

 

[huggybear]

this is set

 

[Mark Chisholm]

Jesse, try shortening the length of the cord to tighten it up or add a wrap or twist to what you have.

 

[stevebullman]

try different cords too.
experiment as much as poss...it will pay dividends /forum/images/graemlins/ven.gif

 

[stickman]

Try a distel hitch seems not to lock up .i use a distel /swabish with ultratech cord with the spliced ends.

 

[Treelimbjim]

Why such long ends and spacer between the biner and micropulley? Doesn't this take a lot of movement to go from locked to advancing the knot?

 

[huggybear]

i use a versitile saddle and the way the biners clip into the saddle the micro pulley sometimes would get jammed into the ends of the eye and eye. When that would happen the rope would run funny over the eyes. Plus i sometimes switch over to a hrc cord with knots and without that snap the eyes will roll over to the sides of the biner.

 

[tophopper]

Try adding a stopper on the biner to prevent the tress eyes from sliding down the side.

 

[Nathan]

I use 2 biners and never have slippage problems.

This is a loaded 3-2. Not for newbies or the faint hearted but it catches every time and self tends.

 

[Mark Chisholm]

You are a wild man Nathan! That would be too far open to slow my big bum down!

 

[stevebullman]

thats how i have mine set nathan. except i have the legs shorter. on my flipline i have a 3-1

 

[tophopper]

I much prefer everthing to terminate on one biner. Ive tried using two, the system IMO is just to sloppy when unloaded. Terminating to one the end, your line helps hold the biner upright and it doesnt sag as much making it better at self tending. I carry a xtra biner, and if I need to split them up I can, but rarely do.

 

[stevebullman]

i know what you mean.....it probably is less sloppy on 1 biner. i like to be able to split my ropes and go between them which is why i opt for the 2 biners

 

[huggybear]

Try adding a stopper on the biner to prevent the tress eyes from sliding down the side.

Are you using something else besides a micro pulley. I can't quite tell what you are using as a slack tender.