Small carabiner

samsquatch

samsquatch

Participating member
Location
SE MN
With the myriad of available climbing biners.. I'm trying to find one relatively small. It will be used to tend a unicender (attached to top point on Uni, back to the loop line in Tom Hoffmann's DdRT climbing in a loop system) but will also need to be life support rated.
The key qualifier is a small diameter or small lateral distance between major axis force vectors and the spline of the biner - or a better way of saying it is: My climbing lines are 1.1 inches apart (omni pulley sheave diameter) and I'm trying to fit a carabiner in that space.
The problem I'm having is that the RockO biners I have when attached to the top of the Uni - they rub on the tail side of the line above the Uni - and I think that contributes to less friction at the Uni and is preventing me from descending efficiently in DdRT.

Let me know if this question isn't making sense, I can demo in a video.
Thanks in advance!
 
Have you looked at the ISC Mini HMS? http://www.iscwales.com/Uploads/Product/Datasheets/1-117-2-693-1-KH214-Mini-HMS-Karabiner.pdf Looks basically the same outer dimensions as the RockO (just a few mm shorter), but if you installed it so that the gate was facing away from your rope, the asymmetric shape may keep the spine more vertical and away from your rope (if I'm understanding the geometry of your problem correctly).

>The key qualifier is a small diameter or small lateral distance between major axis force vectors and the spline of the biner

In that respect, actually maybe any D-shaped or pear-shaped carabiner would work better than an O-shaped.
 
semifnordic said:
Have you looked at the ISC Mini HMS? http://www.iscwales.com/Uploads/Product/Datasheets/1-117-2-693-1-KH214-Mini-HMS-Karabiner.pdf Looks basically the same outer dimensions as the RockO (just a few mm shorter), but if you installed it so that the gate was facing away from your rope, the asymmetric shape may keep the spine more vertical and away from your rope (if I'm understanding the geometry of your problem correctly).

>The key qualifier is a small diameter or small lateral distance between major axis force vectors and the spline of the biner

In that respect, actually maybe any D-shaped or pear-shaped carabiner would work better than an O-shaped.
Click to expand...

You are understanding the geometry correctly, and thanks for the advice! Are there any manufacturers of "skinny" biners out there?
Another thought is to just increase the distance between my DdRT rope chords - is there a clever way of spreading them apart either at the pulleys or just at the Uni where I'm experiencing the rubbing?
 
A soft shackle might work for you, as long as you don't have to diconnect and reconnect while working. It's a little involved to do, if you need to do it frequently.
 
Thanks guys, yes a soft shackle might just be the ticket.
I climbed some this afternoon using the Rock-O again in that position, and just repositioning it a bit, was able to get much less friction on the tail chord; descending with the Uni in DdRT was much better.
 
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