Secondary tie-in for spurring: choked split-tail climbing line -OR- running bowline -OR- ??

[LordFarkwad]

Maybe overkill, but I'd also say it sounds pretty safe unless you're still using that questionable Climb Right steel core.

I am indeed using that climb right it's brand new tho. Would you still say it's that urgent that I discontinue use immediately if there is no visible damage?

Also, if the heat shrink is part of the source of the issue with those, can that be stripped off so that it can be inspected more readily/easily and moisture can escape?

 

[Brocky]

First remove the whipping at the throat, where the rope enters itself.
Milk the rope from the snap to the throat to get any slack to where the bury is. Massage the slack and rope to try to loosen the bury.
Hold the throat with one hand and try to pull the other side of the eye out. If it won’t budge, use a screwdriver to gently try to pry the two pieces apart.
It looks like s double braid so the cover and core will be joined together, with each being buried into the other. They may be stitched together, which will need to be removed. Or just pull apart if not.
There will now be the core exiting the cover. The core needs to go back into the cover, something like a part of pen or top of a sharpie can be taped to the core for use as a fid, or doubled up wire works great also.

 

[evo]

Does anyone have a resource on undoing a splice? I've done some googling and haven't seen anywhere explaining removing one.

Cut the whipping twine carefully to avoid damage to the rope fibers. Pull any twine which pierces the rope.

Next anchor the rope a few feet from the splice, just so you can pull with two hands.

Where the end of the rope enters the host line, carefully pull while wiggling and pushing. With a softer braid it should start sliding out. You will see where the cover enters the core. This is called the cross over. As you pull the cover out of the core, you should see where individual strands have been cut to create a taper.

Next you will see where the core enters the cover going in the opposed direction. Pull the core out of the cover at this point. With a long eye, such as what you have, the core runs opposite in the cover through the length of the eye. From there it's buried back in to the standing part of the line for about 3". You should see where the core has been trimmed to make a taper as well.

You then should have two tails, ending in tapered ends. Take a long piece of wire (metal coat hangers work great), Double it over in the middle to make a snare. Next poke the doubled over end into the center hollow part of the cover near the first cut strand. Insert the wire up the hollow cover to where the core exits the rope. (you might need to take a few passes to get to this point.)

Next take the tapered tail of the core, and insert into the snare of the wire (FID). A little tape can help, but too much will make things harder. Next pull on the two ends of the wire together to pull the core back into the rope. Wiggle and massage the core and cover back into place..

Last push and pull on the cover to get both cover and core to equalize. Rolling your hands as if making a play dough worm helps get the fibers back into place. Now you need to trim the tail back to the point where the core taper is.

Watch a few you tube videos on double braid splices, essentially you are doing it in reverse.

My guess is that it will buy you about 24" of useable line

Brocky was typing faster. Certainly not unsafe if done right and well.

 

[evo]

I am indeed using that climb right it's brand new tho. Would you still say it's that urgent that I discontinue use immediately if there is no visible damage?

Also, if the heat shrink is part of the source of the issue with those, can that be stripped off so that it can be inspected more readily/easily and moisture can escape?

The shrink wrap contributes. Certainly cut it off. The major issue is dissimilar metals, (Copper crimp, on steel), this is on a high fatigue area.. Cover it all up, and add some moisture=disaster.

Many have climbed on these flip lines for a long long time with no issues, but you dont want the be "The one"

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

The other Prusik cordage on the lanyard...unsure.

I'm a bigger fellow - 6'2" 220lbs, relatively muscular. Hope that conbo works! :|

I was talking about the one on the lanyard.

"Stiff Ended e2e" we call that a sewn e2e.. everyone will know what your referencing.

"Relativley muscular" Good Combo? Idk.. man.. Most of us ain't swinging that way bruv.. I don't think the ropes care either.. 220 round or lean.. they got no shame..[emoji41]

For your size and weight, the Vortex and Serling RIT should work great.

Do what you must to feel comfortable, but a steel core flipline and a choked SRS is way safe and will do just about anything you might need. Keeping it simple is good.

+1 that is a good hefty combo for a "Relativley Muscular 220"

That steel core is going to help you feel more comfortable as well when flipping until you get the balance of things..

To be honest, keeping it simple is the best approach right now.. you try & do to much all at once & your going to get overwhelmed.. & that will lead to mistakes no doubt.

Does anyone have a resource on undoing a splice? I've done some googling and haven't seen anywhere explaining removing one.

Lol.. nah man.. you ain't gonna find that one on YouTube.. There not supposed to come apart.. You know.. not for nothing but Google isn't the answer for everything bud.. a good portion of this stuff is self explanatory.. If you read some splicing instructions, chances are the answer is right there in front of you... I mean.. I thought u were an engineer.. right? Reverse Engineer that shit...[emoji6] In the end you may or may not be able to pull it out... it depends how tight its buried in there, how big the tapers were etc.. & how STRONG your hands are "Mr. Relativley Muscular"!

Not for nothing but it's something id expect someone to have a relative grasp on splicing in order to reverse, so read some instructions.. if you can milk all the slack to that end & get all the whipping off without leaving any stands in there, you might be able to undo that double braid if it's a looser cover.


Edit- Yup.. there ya go.. see what i mean? It's a little involved regarding steps & not having done it before....

 

[DSMc]

Use the flipline. I'm going to give you some conflicting information, sorry about that, but I wouldn't cut off that heat shrink. Yes, it is a problem in some ways, mostly not allowing you to inspect the joint and holding in moisture if it gets soaked. But one of the most damaging things to a swaged cable joint is flex and that stiff heat shrink wrap reduces flex. I have used swaged chokers for years and they are tuff. You just have to understand their limitations.

 

[Jonny]

I'd harvest the snap, biner, and adjuster and scrap the rest, but I've always preferred plain rope fliplines.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Seeing as everyone else did the hard part explaining, I'll add some more..

If you can anchor it like this while physically trying to pull it out, it might help allot quite a bit.. The other steps are vitally important though..

 

[evo]

Seeing as everyone else did the hard part explaining, I'll add some more..

If you can anchor it like this while physically trying to pull it out, it might help allot quite a bit.. The other steps are vitally important though..

nice little red truck

 

[LordFarkwad]

Lol.. nah man.. you ain't gonna find that one on YouTube.. There not supposed to come apart.. You know.. not for nothing but Google isn't the answer for everything bud.. a good portion of this stuff is self explanatory.. If you read some splicing instructions, chances are the answer is right there in front of you... I mean.. I thought u were an engineer.. right? Reverse Engineer that shit...[emoji6] In the end you may or may not be able to pull it out... it depends how tight its buried in there, how big the tapers were etc.. & how STRONG your hands are "Mr. Relativley Muscular"!

Just asking questions and gathering as much information as I can. Allot of things end up being what they call "counterintuitive".

I'm not too proud to admit that I don't know everything, and don't want to end up in the incredibly dangerous situation of thinking I do. No matter what, I nor anyone else knows everything. Unconscious incompetence, Dunning-Kreuger, hubris, pride, etc.

Jajajaja - I just didn't want y'all thinking I was a fatty.

 

[LordFarkwad]

Incredible amount of help from everyone. Thank y'all for the assistance. When I get a sec, I will try unsplicing and see how it goes.

 

[Jonny]

No biggie, but if we're sharing ideas here, I might consider keeping that big splice intact and repurposing it. Maybe as a sling with progress capture on a 3:1 setup for pulling trees over or something like that.

Can always just use a knotted termination for a lanyard.

Just thinking out loud I guess

 

[Jehinten]

Does anyone have a resource on undoing a splice? I've done some googling and haven't seen anywhere explaining removing one.

The final step to removing the splice, which I did not see anyone mention, is to tie a good stopper knot. Where as before that splice would get stuck in a hitch, without it your adjuster could slide right off the end.

 

[LordFarkwad]

"Relativley muscular" Good Combo? Idk.. man.. Most of us ain't swinging that way bruv.. I don't think the ropes care either.. 220 round or lean.. they got no shame..

Left out the most important part: I part my hair on the left... WILL THAT COMBO WORK FOR SOMEONE WHO PARTS THEIR HAIR ON THE LEFT???

 

[Tony]

What he said!

What he said about about what he said.

Tony

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

The final step to removing the splice, which I did not see anyone mention, is to tie a good stopper knot. Where as before that splice would get stuck in a hitch, without it your adjuster could slide right off the end.

Yup Yup! So there goes a foot, give or take a few.. then add in cutting the tapers off as well.. could leave you with minimal gain..

Id be curious to know what is actually gained back when all said & done.

 

[LordFarkwad]

What kind of Cordage was that e2e anyhow?

Hitch cord on lanyard is a Pelican Rope "Technora Prusik Lanyard".

 

[LordFarkwad]

This looks like a solution for being able to quickly unclip and reclip a choked TIP. Does anyone use this, or see a problem with using it in this manner? I'm asking since this was posted a while back. It looks like the biner isn't being cross-loaded, and this might actually be a good place to use a carabiner with one of the secondary wire gates in the bend to ensure it remains in the correct orientation.

 

[DSMc]

That configuration and particularly that knot are best suited for having a long tail, as shown, for a pull-down retrieval. It will not work as smoothly as just a fixed carabiner at the end of your climbing line for passing limbs as you ascend the tree.

 

[LordFarkwad]

That configuration and particularly that knot are best suited for having a long tail, as shown, for a pull-down retrieval. It will not work as smoothly as just a fixed carabiner at the end of your climbing line for passing limbs as you ascend the tree.

What knot it's that exactly? I was thinking it could be done with a bowline on a bight, forming two loops.

It'll work more smoothly than untying and retying a running bowline each time I'm passing a limb probably, correct?

Edit: Or maybe not. Need to practice tying one of those over and over.