SCAM 3:1 MA and Remotely Retrievable Redirect

DSMc said:
No, I set the RollClip Z on the line as you show but with just one leg of the bight through the carabiner all while leaving my Akimbo on the line. I then take the tail from under the Akimbo and also pass it through the carabiner to form the bight. The Akimbo only has to be removed when the time comes for retrieving the carabiner. It is very smooth and simple.

Yes, if working at any angle, you must not lose the rope tail.
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DSM can you post a picture of what you are describing please. Thanks IAn
 
A picture would be nice, but I think he is saying the multiscender is on the stationary leg of the bight directly off the knot on the carabiner. Then the rope continues from the underside of the multiscender back up through the carabiner and the tail hangs from there. This way you are still SRT, but have a retrieval tail looped into the system. Is that right? Rather than having the multiscender on the tail and the bight moving as you ascend and descend. I could be mistaken...
 
John_KAYS said:
.... Is that right? .....
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Yes, it is, thanks. I will try and get a picture but your explanation is right on. I use this a lot when setting a normal haul-back with the Petzl Roll-N-Lock as the rope grab with the Petzl Z clipped to it. You can't retrieve it remotely but it is fast, can be set on a loaded line and will travel with you.
 
I love it, and what a great picture! SCAMmerman is too good to pass up, it sounds kind of tuff and illegal or just an indy rock band that takes themselves too seriously
:banda:
but I need to give this a shot either way.
 
Tried with rope runner yesterday and it worked well. It’s a different amount of tension to collapse the bird than without the SCAM( I think because there is not as much weight on the rr when you have the SCAM in place) but once you get the feel for it it’s nice and you don’t have to worry about it collapsing the bird because you can set it up in the opposite side
 
Glad to hear it worked! When you say set it up on the opposite side... I don't have a runner so I am not sure I can visualize what you mean. Do you mean on the tail end of the rope?
 
Furthermore, with rr. I ran my bight line through a pinto pulley with biner at bridge and it was almost to smooth with very little friction and made it very jerky when descending. More gear to keep track of too can be a con but still I’d like to try it with rw as well
 
FreeFallin said:
Hey all, I have been playing around with this for the last few months and I think there is enough here to release it into the wild. I am calling it Single Carabiner Access Method (SCAM), because it needed a simple name, and the ideas are likely a conglomeration of things I ripped off ;)

As a rec climber, my intent here is to contribute to this community with what I have to offer, that being a basic knowledge of physics, a love of climbing, and the annoying habit of overthinking everything. In this case I have been working on a 3:1 MA system that is simple, remotely retrievable, self tending, can be used as a redirect, and can be setup by adding a single carabiner in the tree. I realize I am not the first person to wrap a rope around a carabiner, but the overall methodology is something I have not come across yet in my constant reading and watching of all of you.

The first video explains the basics of what I set out to do and how to setup and use a SCAM 3:1 mechanical advantage. It is a ramble, skip ahead if you don't need all the physics and logic behind what I am doing:

The second video is shorter and expands to include the SCAM Redirect and how I am using it in the tree:

Special mention to @yoyoman for kicking off my thought process, and @Tom Dunlap for the slack tending idea. Feel free to give me feedback, I am always looking for input on safety, usability, and potential ways to improve. :coffe:
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Just putting this back up to make it easier to find for people that want to refresh their memories on how to do this excellent retrievable redirect. Thanks @FreeFallin
 
DSMc said:
FreeFallin, I played around with this some today and think it is fantastic! I have been using the ring/carabiner for this but just using the carabiner as you showed is way better. I still need some more time testing it to determine that it is safe enough but it seems to be and I'm loving it. Thanks again.
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I have used a similar technique, the slip knot on caribiner thing has been used in mountaineering for many years. It is only as safe as the users understanding that they need to make safe ( go on belay ) or connect to an anchor before they disconnect. The inherent issue with complicated or even semi complicated systems is that under pressure a person can make a fatal mistake. Therefor, I believe this is a technique that the user needs to be totally rehearsed and clear headed to use safely. In fact, anytime the climber needs to transfer from one system to another, they must be on their AAA game.
 
Good cautionary advice, Stephen. To be clear though, this is not a system transfer but just another retrievable redirect. It can be set without taking the multi-sender off the line. It works well but I don't use it much. I mostly use non-retrievable redirects and rarely need a 3:1 of this type.
 
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