Rope Wrench Setup, Zero Drop

oceans said:
Got Knut?
I'll have to give it a whirl today. Hopefully I'll have a length that works well with that hitch.
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One of Crazy Jimmy's climbers, Tom Le, is rocking a Micho/ VT hybrid they're calling the MichoTom, Jay posted a vid on Facebook.... looks interesting.
 
oceans said:
Might be sort of like an XT? I wanna see it!
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oceans said:
Spot on. Just connected to on cheek plate, so it can swing open. The only thing required is to be able to tie your hitch while one of the eyes is connected to the carabiner. I have practiced it and it's super easy. Ran a stopwatch on trial one...21 seconds OFF, 29 seconds ON. Not bad for a RW!
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That is fast! Thanks for posting this idea! The lack of worry over the possibility of dropping an essential piece of your gear frees a climber up to focus on speed. Very nice.

Tim
 
I am climbing on Safari with the wrench. Do you guys think 10mm cord would be ok with that? 8mm hrc works well but I often wish I had larger cordage. I thought the ratio had to be larger between the rope and cordage. Thoughts?
 
ctree said:
I am climbing on Safari with the wrench. Do you guys think 10mm cord would be ok with that? 8mm hrc works well but I often wish I had larger cordage. I thought the ratio had to be larger between the rope and cordage. Thoughts?
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I would say that 1mm or 2mm difference in host line to hitch is usually good. Most importantly, the hitch cord's ability to conform to the host line's diameter. If you go with a 10mm, perhaps look for a supple cordage.
 
ctree said:
Thanks oceans. What is a good 10mm supply cordage?
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Well, epiCORD is a real hot ticket right now. Armor Prus is/has been great as well. I would recommend sewn eyes for hitch cord applications, since they are low profile and more immediate usable cordage vs. hand splices which have stiffness due to the tapered bury going farther away from the eye.
 
ctree said:
I am climbing on Safari with the wrench. Do you guys think 10mm cord would be ok with that? 8mm hrc works well but I often wish I had larger cordage. I thought the ratio had to be larger between the rope and cordage. Thoughts?
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I'm currently using 10mm Beeline on a Mammut rope that is not much larger than that, I don't think. I no longer remember its exact diameter. I don't have spliced or sewn eyes in the Beeline, it terminates with a fisherman's knot on each end, for use SRT with the Rope Wrench. I use the Knut hitch, and try to tie it as tight and short as I possibly can. The crossover at the bottom of the Knut hitch, combined with how short I tie it, means that it tends upward almost instantly, with no wasted inches of lifting before it starts moving up. The tightness of the hitch means almost no sitback, either.

I so far have found the suppleness of Beeline allows it to grab my rope no problem. I always test my hitches on the ground, with no other things on the line to support my weight at the time of the test. If it repeatedly grabs and holds when I'm on the ground, putting nearly my full weight into the saddle, I trust it to climb on. This methodology has not failed me yet.

I would like to try the Epicord at some point, but right now I still have my Beeline plus some extra, as yet unused RIT hitch cord to burn through, before I buy the Epicord.

In short, I would say the acid test is attempting to get the hitch cord to repeatedly bite and release while safely walking around in your harness on the ground. If it does, you are good to go with whatever combination of hitch cord and rope you happen to be trying at the moment. In my humble opinion. I hope this helps.

Tim
 
surveyor said:
Would it be worthwhile to have a gate and roller at the tether end of the Wrench, in order to clip the top end of the wrench to the working line, thereby holding the wrench in an "off" position with the top of the wrench up against the climbing line for DdRT?
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Levi.CO said:
my take on what Gordon was saying was using something to keep the wrench in an upright position while it is not engaged and you are climbing double rope.
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Thanks for this comment, Levi. I don't think I understood what surveyor was getting at the first time I read through this thread, in spite of having read your post also.

This may have been covered already earlier in this thread, as I'm currently working my way back through it and am on about page two right now.

If I'm understanding both surveyor and you correctly, the idea here is to create a way of being able to just leave the Rope Wrench in place while climbing DdRT, just to save the time and trouble of having to remove it from your climbing system completely, and having to put it back on again when you need to switch back to SRT.

By having the Rope Wrench held with its tether end up high and in a "neutral" orientation, its presence should not impede one's efforts to climb DdRT.

All surveyor wants to do with this idea is find a way to save time during changeovers, back and forth.

I could not picture it in my mind until just now. Another brilliant idea from a great mind; no kidding.

Tim
 
oceans said:
I just brainstormed this little mod up. I used about 3" of twine and a rubber band to connect the upper becket on just one side of the HC Pulley to my Tether.

With some practice, this makes for super quick OFF/ON with the climbing line without any risk of dropping any parts of the setup. The carabiner can even be rotated around and left on the saddle bridge if desired.

My only other thought so far is to make the orange keeper loop longer to be used as a tending point, leaving the middle becket open for HAAS attachment. Personally, I use a Swing Chestie and connect my HAAS to that, but for guys that don't fly that, a longer loop might be just sweet.

Lemon-O what y'all think!

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Did you stitch your own epi? How does it stitch and what needle did you use and size of thread. how long is the stitch. Alot of stiches and questions sorry.
 
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