Releasable Trunk Anchor

Treezybreez said:
On large diameter dismantles, I will occasionally send a running bowline up to an isolated crotch, so I can re-position my climbing line and move my anchor point as needed. A self retrievable basal anchor is a bit unnerving to me. Of course I don't mind watching you ginepigs. o_O
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My job yesterday was a good sized removal. I started with a base anchor on another tree to eliminate the need for isolation. I switched over to a Running Bowline to begin work and easily advance. CBDB is sweet for this purpose. I then asked the ground worker to untie the base and I connected that end to the RB for retrieval as I moved down the spar. This is the same method Worthaug described.

The idea for a retrievable is all for the reasons that Moss described, but I think there's a difference between "releasable" and "retrievable". I often think of the retrievable base anchor the same as a retrievable canopy anchor, but located below you. The anchor cannot inadvertently release, like Soft Bank Hawk's. You have to pull the jam knot up to you and untie it. Just wanted to say that in attempt to dispel the unnerving part you spoke of (for my system and Hawk's, at least...).
 
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So I set this up today fro the first time. and it worked very smoothly. I would have gotten away with it if it hadn't been for that meddling stopper knot I forgot to take out of the tail of my line. had to get the groundie to bail me out. next time though...

So I think it could be streamlined a bit. and a pinto rig would be a bit more bomb proof, but all in all I think it is pretty clutch. especially since it is just for ascent. I didn't work off of it.
 
The pinto rig has the same ratings, just a better bend ratio for larger diameter ropes.
Cool anchor setup though, Mac.

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macswan said:
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So I set this up today fro the first time. and it worked very smoothly. I would have gotten away with it if it hadn't been for that meddling stopper knot I forgot to take out of the tail of my line. had to get the groundie to bail me out. next time though...

So I think it could be streamlined a bit. and a pinto rig would be a bit more bomb proof, but all in all I think it is pretty clutch. especially since it is just for ascent. I didn't work off of it.
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Mac, how long is that FLY Anchor Sling with the ring spliced in? If that can get around the trunk, all you need is a small ring on a Prusik to make it adjustable. Put your stopper knot against that and off to the races. You can even retrieve the whole sling and bring it into the crown if you wanted to.
 
Mac, just got down from a very thick Maple canopy clean that I utilized your above setup in and it worked great. The crown was so thick that I knew setting a line from the ground wasn't worth it so I hit the highest shot I could and ascended to there, pulled up my chainsaw and the retrieval end. My co workers were chipping another tree so I couldn't call to them anyways. Then I advanced with my 2 in 1 lanyard with my climb line free to where I wanted to start and tied a canopy anchor. I wouldn't use it all the time but this the perfect time to do so. Thanks for showing that vid this morning ;-)

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oceans said:
Mac, how long is that FLY Anchor Sling with the ring spliced in? If that can get around the trunk, all you need is a small ring on a Prusik to make it adjustable. Put your stopper knot against that and off to the races. You can even retrieve the whole sling and bring it into the crown if you wanted to.
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That's the same one you gave me a few years back. Used to have an adjustable small ring on it, but it got lost. I have cobbled together a few versions with the bits I have there. That's the best one I've found. the pulley made the rope yarding not so bad.
 
Thanks for posting the video.
It must be dreamy pulling over the pinto wheel.
I've often wondered about the strength when knot blocking a pinto, far from saying it is weak, just wondered if there were breaking figures somewhere?
I guess I'd go for a ring though, they are ideal for knot blocking.
I'll try to convert my traverse rope into a ring and ring. 2 birds 1 stone 'n all.
 
I use a similar releasable base anchor.
It does depend on the situation some on how effective it is. I was deadwooding the nastiest Pin Oak I have ever seen yesterday while the rest of the team was removing an Ash tree somewhere else on the property. I wish I had a picture of the skirt that was on this thing. I got up to the canopy and fought for 10 minutes trying to pull my line up to me to reset it as a canopy anchor.
It would have been a lot easier if I had just asked someone to release it for me.

But! When you don't have to deal with something like that it is the cat's meow!
 
SoftBankHawks said:
Thanks for posting the video.
It must be dreamy pulling over the pinto wheel.
I've often wondered about the strength when knot blocking a pinto, far from saying it is weak, just wondered if there were breaking figures somewhere?
I guess I'd go for a ring though, they are ideal for knot blocking.
I'll try to convert my traverse rope into a ring and ring. 2 birds 1 stone 'n all.
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Yeah me and another climber chatted about it for a bit. It was definitely a concern. I feel pretty confident in it, but would like a bit more info. It is not something I would work off of.
 
image.webp The discussion on releaseable anchors has renewed my interest in using a ring captured in an Alpine Butterfly. I have used this many times with my usaver. However, I have never seen this idea used on any forums.
Why is this not in use?
 
William_Piper said:
That is my question.
Is there some issue I am not aware of?
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The only issues I see could all be overcome with patience and diligence.

- Length adjustment may be slower than a moveable Prusik.
- Relatively tight bend radius over ring (...not REALLY so much an issue with 10mm cordage which is stationary over the bend, but still a consideration).
- Steel ring may be heavy enough to pull the cinch open when the system is unweighted.

Are you running a DdRT system through the small ring only, or using it as a cinching SRT Knot Block system?
 
Great analysis Oceans. I think what will happen with the steel ring when the system is unweighted is... not too much. At least with a relatively high rope position in the tree the weight of the rope will keep the cinch tight enough on the trunk. If the climber lanyards in and slacks the system off significantly, say to improve the rope position, yeah then you might see the ground anchor loosening and possibly shifting, especially when you're anchored to a smallish diameter tree.

I really want the ground anchor for a releasable or retrievable system to be tight and not moving at all no matter what the climber does in the tree. I believe a good basal/ground anchor should be something you don't have to even consider for a second once you're on rope beyond the fact that it is a basal anchor, there's enough to think about as it is with out adding background worries.
-AJ
 
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