Question about felling technique

[southsoundtree]

Hey Sam, yeah this thing took off in some weird directions but to answer your original question, I backbar humboldts all the time in smaller wood. It’s my preferred method until the wood gets to be about 24”+ then I take a small step further towards the front of the spar and use the bottom of the bar. Right handed or left depending on which side of the spar I’m on. If I’m on the right side of the spar I run the saw left handed.

What do you like about that way?

 

[chiselbit]

It’s just faster for me, I dont have to move back and forth on my spurs, can do it while positioned in the same place I’ll make my back cut. I don’t know if there’s any benefit to doing it that way, it’s just the way I do it.

 

[Daniel]

Gosh Daniel, if you were actually trying to bridge a sidewalk why would you use a high stump, and a wide open face. You want the spar to come down as soft and flat as possible. All you are doing is encouraging this spar to come down hard, and tip first. Once again, completely bass ackwards. Were done here buddy!

Another dumb ass comment, like you're the only in the world that knows how to cut trees... You're losing your credibility here. I can keep the tree on the stump with a wide face in certain species, depending on shape of the tree and the terrain... (as long as there isn't a lot bounce on the stem at impact).. Hemlock is one of the better holding species....

And as long as the face is over 90 degrees, in any species, the tips will come down taking all the initial force of impact, and even if the but drops after the bounce it will fall a lot softer than on the initial fall.

I'll look for pictures

 

[Woodwork]

 

[rico]

I only need half that myself!