Prusik on SRT anchor

rfwoodvt

rfwoodvt

New member
Location
This side of eternity.
We've been using a set up similar to the Anchor Bridge SRT Basal Anchor Sling for a couple of years but with a shorter prusik made of tenex.

It is time to replace the prusik and we'd like to go longer. The real question though is do we stick with tenex, go to a polyester prusik cord or one of the high mods.

Any significant benefit of one over the other?

I really hesitate to use the high mod as where it passes throguh the eye of the plate we will get the same wear/self abrasion issues found in using the high-mods for bridges.

Tenex speaks for itself though the picking is a pain in the rear end.

That leave the polyester cords of which I know nothing, specifically, what makes a good poly prusik cord? Also, what is the best diameter, tensile strength, construction on a good poly prusik?

Any suggestions or advice?
 
I wouldn't do high mods. They aren't as abrasion resistant they break down faster under uv. And as the wear will be generally at the same point each time I'd be concerned about the self abraiding features that some high mods have shown.

That's my personal feeling. High mods are fine in my opinion for hitches due to the short life span. Anything I'm going to be using over a longer period of time I prefer the more tried and true. Again personal feeling!
 
The sling that I use for my trunk wrap anchor has a tight eye on one end and an eye long enough to make a three wrap Klemheist on the other.

Its made from Ice. There is no way that I would ever use Tenex for an adjuster that might be heated. Too often they turn into crayons. In a rescue lower this would be catastrophic.

The pic is the configuration, not made from Ice though.
 

Attachments

  • 309190-anchorbelay2.webp
    309190-anchorbelay2.webp
    100.2 KB · Views: 229
Show your set up! What tom pictured is a different type then I thought you were describing. For his set up I would def use heat resistant. But I wouldn't consider that a basal tie off. More of a truck wrap.
 
Same here CBPA31...I've used Tom's set up before, found it difficult to manage.

The system we've been running is a dead-eye sling with a biner in the eye of the sling. We toss that around the trunk. we wrap a prussik around the tail and run the prussik up through the biner, adjusting the prussik so that we make a choker around the trunk.

We then attach a biner and grigri to the end of the prussik sticking through the biner on the dead eye. We attach the ascent line to the grigri.

Really it is just a larger version of an adjustable pulley saver. Except instead of a TIP with pulley it is a Bottom anchor with Grigri.

What I want to do is make the prussik longer like a footlock prussik.

284756-IMG_0651.JPG
 
[ QUOTE ]
...What I want to do is make the prussik longer like a footlock prussik.

[/ QUOTE ]

Rick, what would be the benefit of a longer prusik? So if I understand, you are using a setup like the one pictured but instead of running the prusik through the ring you run it through a carabiner?

Dave
 
I would consider switching out the biner in the dead eye sling to a ring. This way there is no chance of sideloading the biner against the tree. Really no less efficient. Just avoid any potential problems.

I understand the longer sling and encourage it. It really depends on how your setting it up and opens up more options. Hard to explain all the benefits so I'll just leave it at that.
 
Agreed on those counts...longer prussick sling is a given. As for the biner, that is why we are reworking this...to remove the biner. We will be using a CT rigging plate to replace the ring/biner

2A63703.jpg


I just found this, which is what we will be approximating.

ABR6300.jpg


AnchorBridge Basal Anchor

So, back to the original question, aside from tenex and high-mod prussik loops what size, material and construction Polyester would be best and who is making such stuff?
 
Hey Tom,

Sorry about that the notes above the image weren't complete...
grin.gif
the anchor is like the choked FS however instead of at the TIP it is at the base of the tree and instead of the DdRT system and pulley there is a GriGri and the SRT ascent rope.
 
With just using the prussic as a rope grab and not exposing it to load-induced heat, almost any climbing line the same size or smaller will work. Velocity is soft and flattens under load. Might give it a try.

Dave
 
hey Rick,

How's this for a thorough answer. Just did this vid today.

Here's my new setup. Tell me what you think. In some ways similar to the ABR, some ways very different. The prussiks are OP and Ice. The double rings make for a much kinder bend radius than the plate.


SRT Basal Anchor

Regards,
Tom
 
I have put 3/8" tenex eye to eyes in a 10 mm ocean cover with a whiplock to make it more abrasion resistant. It's a lot like Samson's tech chord but not high mod core, make your own double braid, it's fun.
 
OF,

that certainly covers a lot of what I'm looking to do. I'll give it a closer look but off the top there seem to be a lot of components to lose, the rings, the prusiks and biners.

I'm not known for keeping propert track of my small stuff
grin.gif
 
How about Tenex Loopie or Whoopie sling around the base of the tree with the climbing line running through a GriGri?
 
[ QUOTE ]
How about Tenex Loopie or Whoopie sling around the base of the tree with the climbing line running through a GriGri?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep. Nice and simple. I can recognize the importance of redundancy in the rigging plate setup but there's an awful lot of stuff going on there that seems to over complicate things.

You can be backed up with 20 connections at the anchor but there's still only one line going up that's the weak point in terms of safety.
 
Gotta get away from teh tennex. Been using that for years, don't like the picking, plucking, fraying and tendency to suck up sap, pitch and dirt.

Also backing up the belay device either with a lock off or other means is not satisfactory with the tenex slings.
 
I use a short version of a footlock prusik similar to Tom but mine's 8mm Tech Cord (Atlantic braids).

I don't have a problem with aramids in tension or friction applications, that's what they're made for. It's bending where self abrasion becomes a serious issue.

I also like tenex a lot for hitch cord. Yes, it melts if you REALLY smoke it, but it doesnt melt all the way through. I've tried.
Last week I purposefully slid about 50' as fast as I could tolerate on a well used tenex hitch. It glazed a bit but I'd use it again if I didn't have several lying around. Tenex is cheap, strong and it rocks a VT better than ANY other cord, I've tried'em all except Armor Prus.

When i set up a footlock event, I use Tech Cord as the primary anchor on both lines. It`s good stuff, just don`t make a bridge out of it and then cover it with a sheath.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom