I want to use my ZigZag as a combo lanyard adjuster/climbing rig. I’m also interested in it for a “Climbing in a Loop” system and my uCLIMBER ddrt/static rig.
However, Petzl clearly prohibits use in SRT. Months ago, I emailed them and they answered with a polite “No, don’t use it”. The Zillon is the intended product and the ZigZag shouldn’t be deployed in a single rope configuration or as a lanyard adjuster.
I got some serious help with this conversation at TCI Hartford and I’d like to pass along the info …
Technically, there are three (3) issues why the ZZ is not suitable for SRT:
- Link friction is inadequate for climber’s full weight
- When the climbing line lead is detached, the ZZ body rotates counter clockwise. When used with running rope (SRT line passing thru the ZZ), this sets up a wear point and the line abrades the device as it exits.
- Due to the rotation, the attachment swivel is driven hard against the limit of its travel in the slot, producing a bending force at the attachment.
However, Petzl has now released a technical bulletin approving the ZZ as a backup belay point when deployed with supplemental friction:
http://www.petzl.com/en/Professional/Second-belay-point-on-the-trunk--without-false-crotch--evacuation-system-with-the-ZIGZAG-in-single-mode-with-added-friction?ProductName=ZIGZAG&Familly=Descenders&l=US#.VGlBAPmG-Sp
This is called “Single Mode with Added Friction” and is considered an “expert only” setup.
I believe this opens the door to approving another expert mode … “Singe Mode at Half Weight”. I’m working with Petzl now to try to promote this approval.
In my “half-wit” configuration, the “inadequate friction” issue goes away because the ZZ only sees half the climber’s weight. The “abrasion” issue goes away too because there is comparatively very little motion of the rope through the device, certainly compared to full SRT climbing. The “bending” issue is still in play, but
only at half the level that they have already approved in the existing tech bulletin. Furthermore, this bending force is self-limiting by the natural stiffness of the rope itself. It is
not like bending a crab over a small branch.
In my video on TCIA Hartford, I show the new Petzl device they are using for bridge adjustment and, soon to be available, as a lanyard. Small. Elegant. Terrific idea. But I’m still hoping they embrace the ZZ for the lanyard application. I’ll keep you posted.
OF