Pantin positioning?

GibsonTreeCare

GibsonTreeCare

Where do you guys position it on your ankle? Mine kicks off all the time unless I have a biner in the lock-off hole.

Maybe it is just my bio-mechanical position? my thighs are short and huge, so it is not that much of an upward movement and my hamstring and calf meet.

It is a PIA to keep clipping the biner in and out, but it is more of a PIA when it pops off, ya know?

pics would be awesome
cool.gif


thx
 
My Pantin is adjusted to sit snug, just below my ankle bone.

It's important to try to keep your body vertically aligned with the rope, but try simply bringing your Pantin foot a bit out in front of you as it comes up. You could exaggerate the motion a bit at first and slowly work on seeing how "vertical" you can keep it. Imagine the cam isn't even in the Pantin, and how you could try to keep the rope in the hook as you lift your leg. I hope that made sense.

Also, I sometimes use the Velcro strap on my climbing pants to make certain that the cuff doesn't interfere.
 
Yes! But like I said, exaggerate it at first, and you will soon develop the muscle memory to use only enough of the motion as needed.

I will say, using a Pantin on Escalator can be tougher without the biner. You have to really exaggerate, but I think your 11mm (7/16") KMIII should work great.
 
You have to envision it, believe it, concentrate on keeping your ankle directly up and down the rope. If I ever try to go too fast it pops off. The first ten feet are the most cruscial, seems to get easier as you eat up more rope.
 
GTC,

If your Ham meets your calf, you pop out of the Pantin. In fact, that is how you are supposed to pop out of the Pantin.

Take your Pantin and look at it under a really good light. There is a diagram etched there of a wee man wearing a helmet with an even tinier Pantin on his foot. With the aid of a bloody great arrow, he is showing how the foot goes up and forward to make the damn thing work.

The instruction sheet that comes with every Pantin contains even more usefull information and should be read in similarily bright lighting conditions.

Northwind
 
thanks guys, lol, never looked to see the wee man on the etching, will look today :) I thought you popped it off by kicking backwards quickly?
 
For the Pantin, I've used a tiny plastic key biner with poison ivy with good results. At 11.7mm, I can squeeze the rope in and out without unclipping the biner, and without popping out, with the aforementioned backward bicycle pedalling motion.
 
I have one of each and I like the cmi bc it never kicks off but the petzl is smaller more compact and since I usually leave it on while working the tree it interferes less than the cmi. Now if I can get the tricks that were said above to work than I would definitely use the petzl. It's nice having both though just so you have the option.
 
I find that pointing my toes down help keep the pantin aligned better, preventing pop outs. Also, the more weight below the pantin, the less it pops out in my experience which is why that first 10' is so tough. I've tied my saw on to the rope before going up to add some weight which helps out a bunch.
 
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Which is better CMI or Petzl foot ascenders?

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My first Pantin was bought an hour after they came on sale at Midwest Mountaineering in Minnesota. It is one of the key tools for making rope ascent so much easier than footlocking.

To me the CMI is clunky. It gets in the way during the climb and on the ground too. Anyone who uses a Pantin will wear it home! Then they'll hear the clink of their spurs ;)

The best position for the Pantin that I've found is to have the exit point just below and behind the ankle bone. See the pic. Keep the straps snug.

The real key is to keep your toes pointed down just a little. If your toes come up the rope will tail forward across the face of the cam and allow it to shoe-horn off the the rope.

Jerry Beranek showed me a clever Pantin modification. He used a triangular file to make some shallow notches across the top of the cam. With the rough edges there its easy to 'snag' the cam on the rope and pull the cam aside to slip the rope back into the shell.
 

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To give the bottom of the rope a bit more weight I have a ten ounce bag with a short loop attached. Before ascending I girth hitch the bag to the rope, about three feet from the ground. That's just enough weight to keep the rope fair and in the Pantin.

The bag stays attached while I climb. At some time during the climb I'll pull the rope up, remove the bag and stash it on my saddle. It comes in handy when I want to reset my rope into a different TIP or redi. Clipping onto my lanyard to toss it into a new position works too.
 
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I find that pointing my toes down help keep the pantin aligned better, preventing pop outs.

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I gOt the same advice from Kyle McCabe last year at a seminar. This has helped me a lot. At first exaggerat it, then it will come naturally. Also having a 36" inseam helps as well.
 
Personally I prefer the CMI rig. Stays right where it's suppose to, like it's suppose to. I can adjust where it sits on my foot without affecting it's functionality or altering my technique. I hated kicking out of the Pantin, and the CMI unit doesn't feel that bulky to me. IDK why, but I suspect that it is because of the massive cod hoppers attached to my ankles. And yeah, I've worn it home by accident :)
 
My biggest issue is the pantin strap keeps loosening up on me. As far as your question Cary I got mine low on my boot and as long as I keep my lower leg vertical it doesn't pop off but if i kick my leg out it happens everytime. I also have been thinking about stitching that bottom strap because it keep working its way out too.
 
For me I sit me pantin as low as I can and from what I remember it is moved forward a little. I also sewed it is spots to make sure it doesn't loosen on me. I have found like others said it's all about form. Change your movement in different ways Cary and you might get better results.
 
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