One Handing a Top Handle Chain Saw? Yes or No

Private Tree Ordinances, good, bad, or ugly?

  • Good for the trees but a pain for me

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Just a thought I had while reading this thread: Has anyone tried using a battery-powered reciprocating saw ("Sawzall") with an aggressive blade as a tool in between a chainsaw and a handsaw in both safety and speed? There are some "pruning" blades available (for example https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...rocating-Saw-Blade-5-Pack-DS0905FG5/203464786), cheaper than a handsaw blade. I've used them for cutting up fallen branches, not as fast as a chainsaw but lower risk profile and faster overall if you're only dealing with smaller quantities of smaller wood. On the whole one-hand debate, I'd imagine a reciprocating saw could be used one-handed more safely than a chainsaw -- it's not going to kick back, and the saw teeth are only on one side of the blade.
I haven't tried one in the tree. But in most cases for pruning, I'm not sure it is a better option than a good handsaw. You get a much longer stroke with a handsaw (even when not using the full blade, 8-10" per stroke compared to 1" with a reciprocating saw) so I'd guess they are about the same speed. In my opinion, I also think the sawzall leads to more fatigue than a handsaw because of the vibration.

I'm not saying it is a bad idea or that they have no place. Like Tom said...a great tool in tight spots. In fact, I bought a Milwaukee Hackzall just for cutting girldling roots. They are packed in there tight. It is also most often impossible to take advantage of long strokes on the saw so that advantage is lost. I have used the Diablo blades and they make a nice cut. For root work, I bought some pruning blades at Harbor Freight...not my normal source for any tool I want to make life more efficient...but putting them in the ground chews through any blade pretty quick, so might well make it a cheap one. I'd use the Diablo blades above ground!

Good question and curious to hear if anybody else is using one in a tree. Might be a good option for 4-6" diameter limbs that put you in a tough position where one handed saw work is preferred, but there are too many for handsaw use.
 
Just a thought I had while reading this thread: Has anyone tried using a battery-powered reciprocating saw ("Sawzall") with an aggressive blade as a tool in between a chainsaw and a handsaw in both safety and speed? There are some "pruning" blades available (for example https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...rocating-Saw-Blade-5-Pack-DS0905FG5/203464786), cheaper than a handsaw blade. I've used them for cutting up fallen branches, not as fast as a chainsaw but lower risk profile and faster overall if you're only dealing with smaller quantities of smaller wood. On the whole one-hand debate, I'd imagine a reciprocating saw could be used one-handed more safely than a chainsaw -- it's not going to kick back, and the saw teeth are only on one side of the blade.

I do this because it is so easy to one hand. My ryobi with a 4ah battery will do just fine for small stuff. Any crosscut blade will work well. I will use it to make 3" or less cuts, beyond that it is a waste of time. I still prefer a chainsaw but it is nice to have the blade stop when you take your finger off the trigger.
 
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A battery powered sawz-all in a tree? Have you no shame?

Shame is for the shameful. I take pride in a healthy tree and a job well done. Just to be clear, I will always prefer my 355T over anything electric. I was just so tempted by how light weight the sawzall is I had to give it a try. It actually worked well and can store on the saddle very easily.
 
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Just did a job involving limbwalking way out on big swooping western red cedar limbs on a typical rainy PNW day and they were slippery as a mf. I had to make cuts where 2 handing literally would have equated to sketchy and unergonomical work positioning at best. Times like that I love my perfectly balanced and one-handable white and orange cube of cutting power.
 
Just did a job involving limbwalking way out on big swooping western red cedar limbs on a typical rainy PNW day and they were slippery as a mf. I had to make cuts where 2 handing literally would have equated to sketchy and unergonomical work positioning at best. Times like that I love my perfectly balanced and one-handable white and orange cube of cutting power.

A perfect example and one that can come up many time in just one tree.
 
@AshWilliams

The situation that you described is one example of the reason that there is still an 'out' written into the ANSI standard.

I think I shared this earlier in the thread and it bears repeating.

At a workshop someone shared the protocol that their company uses for one-handed use. When a climber looks at the situation and thinks that one-hadning is what they're going to use a shout goes out to other climbers and groundies. The climber states what they are going to do. The setupis assessed. If the rest of the crew green lights it then the climber roceeds with the attention of the crew ready to rescue in case something goes pear shaped. Most of the time another solution that is safer is used. pole saw...reposition...etc. But...having the support and attention of the rest of the crew is so import
 
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I haven't purchased the new ANSI standards manual yet for arboriculture operations, but it says you shall not one hand a chainsaw, unless your EMPLOYER can demonstrate that it is necessary and safer to do so. In my 15 years of tree climbing, I have made maybe 20 cuts single-handed... very rare, but very necessary- especially in certain rigging operations. Always use two hands if you are able to.

SAFETY trumps production- ALL DAY LONG!


For reviving this thread
 
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As I speedily one-handed (and handily, it must be said) the other day, I felt a twinge of remorse because of the disapprobation of my learned 2-handed peers.
 
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