Old school v.s. New school

Hey @JeffGu. Yesterday, even though I said I was going to rest my hand for the day, I grabbed my Sumac rope and the ZZ. I picked a red oak in the yard and proceeded up with my new "toys." I did wear my spikes so I could favor my fckd up hand. I walked lightly though and barely penetrated the bark if at all. Once I tied in, I explored the tree. I love the zz on yale! So freaking smooth! Thanh you, and everyone else that posted, for all the advice. I also have the Rapid hitch climber, and another prusik , for my 16 strand lines. I also grabbed a rope runner since it was on sale. I plan on getting a 200' hank of calamine to go with it.
 
96coal449 said:
...even though I said I was going to rest my hand for the day...
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I kinda ripped a bunch of stuff loose in my right arm awhile back, and keep reinjuring it, so it's bothering me, again. Took a couple days off to let it get better, and sure as hell... started playing with some new stuff. Just trying to get used to some newer gear and ropes with SRT, which I am anything but adept at. Clumsy as hell, so trying to play with it more without the pressures and time constraints of a job site. Like, Rope Wrench on 1/2" KM III rope. In the living room, I thought the friction was too much, rope flattened out too much, etc. through the device... but, damn, it still works fine once I get my full weight on it. So much easier to do this stuff when you can relax and just mess around with it, and not a bunch of trees waiting on you to hurry up and kill them.

The ZigZags I played with a LOT when I got them... still just love those things. Tried gobs of different ropes. Even borrowed some to try with it. In the end, the best all around performance just seemed to be the 11.7mm Yale ropes... for me, at my weight, etc... but I found it works damn good with a lot of ropes. Even works pretty good with the 1/2" ones. I'm glad it's working good for you, too. The downside of expressing opinions about gear on forums is that you don't really know how it's going to work out for the readers. What works great for a 140 lb. climber might not work at all for a 340 lb. climber. But that combination seems to work well for anthing in between those two extremes, from my own experiences and from what others have said, so I don't mind recommending that one. It's not a unique opinion, as someone recommended the combination to me as well. Seems that a lot of people are finding that one to be pretty damn near a match made in heaven.

Now, if I can just figure out how these guys keep so vertical on a single line while ropewalking... when I try it, I look like a monkey trying to hump a boa constrictor.
 
Haha old school is manila, 30 plus years of hip thrusting here lol. I now am using a hass,rr and foot ascender when I don't feel like sending down the wraptor. I started on 3 strand in 1981 and stayed drt until last few years but I still use it every once and a blue moon, though must admit; not many blue moons now lol.
 
SRT removals are amazing. Once you get the hang of it, you'll never go back. I don't even spike up anymore on long ascents. Much more efficient to climb the rope. Set one good TIP and you're good to go. On some removals I don't even use spikes until spar work. It also changes the way you work a tree. It's worth a shot.
 
Toomuchsawdust said:
SRT removals are amazing. Once you get the hang of it, you'll never go back. I don't even spike up anymore on long ascents. Much more efficient to climb the rope. Set one good TIP and you're good to go. On some removals I don't even use spikes until spar work. It also changes the way you work a tree. It's worth a shot.
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I am getting another yale 11.7mm to go with the rope runner I have on the way. I will play with SRT but it will take some getting used to for me. I'm an old school bred stubborn bitch. Sometimes I still tie in natural crotch with a dedicated 3-strand.
 
SRT removals rip...I do most crowns without spikes and put them on when the wood starts...have kk's so the spikescender can come into play...only use a runner....DdRT just not my thing anymore..use it sometimes on certain trees where it just plain makes sense..mostly small tree removal....hey I use all the tricks in my bag...
 
swingdude said:
SRT removals rip...I do most crowns without spikes and put them on when the wood starts...have kk's so the spikescender can come into play...only use a runner....DdRT just not my thing anymore..use it sometimes on certain trees where it just plain makes sense..mostly small tree removal....hey I use all the tricks in my bag...
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It's nice to have all the tricks up your sleeve. when I remove a pine in full flow season I use my ring & ring friction saver and my 3-strand climber with blakes hitch. Not smooth but that rope takes a beating like Rodney King and doesn't shed a fiber. I hate sap on my pretty ropes.
 
Okayyy .... back to topic, does anyone use a bridge adjuster? If so which one. Sometimes I find myself wanting my bridge ring to far away and would like it closer. Other times, it's fine where it is. Remember, I am used to the traditional ass strap with 2 rings. They are always close to my waist, and part of my muscle memory. Thanks for all the advice guys.
 
I agree strongly with Pelorus and JeffGu - the ZZ is the bee's knees! Bought my ZZ because of Pelorus's recommendation, and he was spot on.

It has been discussed a lot elsewhere on the Buzz and I'm surprised no one here mentioned it: The ZZ on 11.0 mm Samson Velocity is Da BOMB!!! Yes, 11.0 is less than the "official" Petzl recommendation, but if you get talking to a bunch of climbers and suppliers off-the-record, they'll admit they're running the ZZ on Velocity. Self tails smoother than silk sheets, and yet still bites and holds my 225 pounds without any issues.
 
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