New tool design-please vote!

should he


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Other than current use in ski slalom racing that handle design came and went in the 70's. It was made by Scott USA check it out. The knuckle part split in the middle for wipeout release. It would be good research to study the evolution of ski pole handles. The major advances in ergonomics have been for x-country skiing. They've tried T handles and little tabs here and there. It really comes down to probably a many thousand year old design with a top strap that goes around the wrist and inside the palm . Great control. Sheesh how could there be any negative to putting a strap and a handle on a tree climbing tool.
 
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Doesnt it ever come off during a cut? plus there is no hook tool for pulling / pushing like a traditional pole head

Also I figured there would be debate about clipping and unclipping the thing for use, but for someone who doesnt use it frequently I suppose

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No it does not come off during cutting just like pole sections don't come off when cutting.

The "hook" actually can be the handle. You can hook really well with it.

Clipping and unclipping is no different than taking out and putting back your hand saw.
 
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Other than current use in ski slalom racing that handle design came and went in the 70's. It was made by Scott USA check it out. The knuckle part split in the middle for wipeout release. It would be good research to study the evolution of ski pole handles. The major advances in ergonomics have been for x-country skiing. They've tried T handles and little tabs here and there. It really comes down to probably a many thousand year old design with a top strap that goes around the wrist and inside the palm . Great control. Sheesh how could there be any negative to putting a strap and a handle on a tree climbing tool.

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A ski pole points down though, a pole saw points up.

Also, a pole saw is a lot heavier than some lightweight racing pole or any ski pole for that matter.

But the thousand yr old tech IS comparable:

A sword points up, out and all over like a pole saw , and using a shorter pole saw like Caseys technique, it is like a longsword. Some used a tassel (lanyard)

Medieval technology applied to our pole saw to add some sort of handle/grip I think is needed, whether or not you invert the tool. You dont have to , I never said that either , my pic just demonstrated that capability.

If you used one with minimal guard , just the grip , it might help some out?
 
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Still trying to confirm your assertion that the guard adds to the force.



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Ok silly description, but try this for a force comparison:


Tug o war with a long pole and two equal strength people but one end has the grip..

who wins?


Also, interesting find on the grip article.
 
Pole saws point down if you're polesawing roots. No just turn the handle around so the strap comes from above the hand. We are not always working with the lower hand at the end of the pole. Adjusting the grip rather than the pole length so just the right length of loop could be prussiced on as well. I might just do that.
 
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No it does not come off during cutting just like pole sections don't come off when cutting.


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I just had one come unclipped the other day on a big tug. It was clipped in all the way but it was a slightly worn clip so I reallocated this pole to a pruner only position.

Anyway , yes they generally do not come unclipped, but they can in an extreme case and could present a fast happening hazard if the remaining tool that was in the tree came spearing down at you. In my case it was stuck in tree, but I was able to use the section I had to get it back.

So I was wondering if your tool has ever come unclipped at all?

"The "hook" actually can be the handle. You can hook really well with it." wow , I am truly impressed, judging by the fact that it disconnects at all I thought it would come off during a hook for sure


Maybe Im too hard on pole tools , but I imagine if it was able to be unclipped by hand, it would come off with all the pruning / breaking out small deadwood / pulling out hangers
 
Yes Ive pointed my pole saw down to a limb below, so I stand corrected, I just meant general comparison

"We are not always working with the lower hand at the end of the pole."

Yes Ive ran into this , and thats why maybe the full guard is no good, but a partial guard your hand can slide on and off grip easily
 
"Polesaws make you lazy"?

This totally depends on the objective.
For thinning and cleaning, yes.

For reduction, no.
Using a polesaw makes me limbwalk more, to get the right angles on the better cuts. Plus, a pole can pull a branch within handsaw range.

The Jameson 7-14' goes into most trees with me, because most involve reduction cuts, and it's good for advancing ropes.

o and zale it'd be great to climb together. You must be 120# or have rubber arms to reach that cut!
laugh.gif
But we are looking at a teeny 2D pic so...
 
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"Polesaws make you lazy"?

This totally depends on the objective.
For thinning and cleaning, yes.

For reduction, no.
Using a polesaw makes me limbwalk more, to get the right angles on the better cuts. Plus, a pole can pull a branch within handsaw range.

The Jameson 7-14' goes into most trees with me, because most involve reduction cuts, and it's good for advancing ropes.


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Good stuff! Pole tools have some great benefits.

I quickly and efficiently use a pole saw for pruning, thinning, grabbing hangers without getting lazy.

Just because one climbed all the way to get something doesnt make it the better ( not lazy ) way. What if I point my pole out there and grab it before one can climb out there? Does that make my way lazy, if it does the same quality job? Yes I understand not everyone will make quality cuts, but if you are aware of the angles you can.

I can dismantle a lot of the same deadwood out of a tree with a pole, faster than I can climb to each piece and cut with a handsaw. comparing cuts they look the same.
 
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"Polesaws make you lazy"?

This totally depends on the objective.
For thinning and cleaning, yes.

For reduction, no.
Using a polesaw makes me limbwalk more, to get the right angles on the better cuts. Plus, a pole can pull a branch within handsaw range.

The Jameson 7-14' goes into most trees with me, because most involve reduction cuts, and it's good for advancing ropes.

o and zale it'd be great to climb together. You must be 120# or have rubber arms to reach that cut!
laugh.gif
But we are looking at a teeny 2D pic so...

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If you are ever in our nation's capital, let me know.
 
It looks like I am joining this topic very late but once I read the posts and viewed the image I want one.

If you know me then you know I love enhancements especially tools of each and any trade.

Your Hilt idea solves problems must users are blind to.

Seeing the efficiency of grip and control being tripled is nice.

If I could ask did you consider/reject the notion to make the grip at almost 90 degrees to the pole socket?

In using hand tools over the years the angle you grip an old hand saw is just prefect.

Your power factor triples just by not bending your palm to be parallel to the force being applied.

Just curious.
 
Cool man, I'll be sure you get one asap

"If I could ask did you consider/reject the notion to make the grip at almost 90 degrees to the pole socket?"

No, but I read the grip articles posted by Tree Humper and Ive been considering all sorts of alterations

You also mentioned a handsaw angle , would that be about a 45 ? (edit: ok OLD handsaw, thats why you said 'almost 90')

I will experiment with these next...


"Your power factor triples just by not bending your palm to be parallel to the force being applied."

great idea, I see what you mean. Extra power would be added by angling the handle like a hand saw...
 

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