new rope wrench tether

I see the wrench, tether and pulley looking like a homongenized tool. Could tend the hitch with another partial friction assist instead perhaps? For the larger climber. Just a thought, maybe the single wrench is the right amount of friction.
 
Yeah B. when you tried the wrench the VT was set up for a smaller dude.
Thus causing a wee ride. A different hitch or just another wrap on the VT
would work good for you I'm sure. I have a spare wrench if you want it.
 
I'd need some trees with laterals that you could go out on. Pretty much all spar work that I do. No complaints with the AFS and double rope.
Basic question, but does the hitch ever jam up or is that eliminated with the wrench?
 
No way. Why put more hardwear between you and your anchor. I and probably everyone snugs up their system as close as possible on the climb. On the descent the afs is a backup to working off the lanyard primarily. You'd be adding more space and another hazard. I have enough trouble staying above the lanyard for cuts.
 
Suit yourself, It works for DRT as well. Saves your friction hitch.
Doing spars with SRT is a little simpler I find. Just cinch the end of your
line on the spar, clip a lanyard to it or just leave a tail to pull it down.
Less rope to tend on the way up. Each to his own, but it works for me.
 
I don't know about that. I like flipping the webbing and ring/ring plus being against the tree gives all the friction you need. The short length of rope being used and the gentle loading on the hitch don't really need the assist from the wrench. Plus on dead or frozen trees if you blow a spike and flop into the tree there's going to be a wrench between you and the tree.

Getting back to the wrench tether. With the rigid tether I see what looks like a whole new device kinda. And I see an oportunity to add more assistance from the prussic tender. Maybe not a whole wrench, maybe more space between pins, I don't have enough experience with the wrench.

Then wouldn't a climber want the tether to pull more centrally. More compact. I'm seeing two wrenches basically facing each other pulling down on the arms like a pair of plyers. Serious rope pinching power and good release.
 
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Basic question, but does the hitch ever jam up or is that eliminated with the wrench?

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Any problem you can have with a hitch DdRT you can have with the RW. Once you get the hitch dialed you shouldn't have any problem on the RW.

If I hang in one position for any length of time on the wrench the hitch tends to progressively bite into the rope and not release easily unless I stand on the rope and unload it. Happens with DdRT to so no big difference.
-AJ
 
Oh I suppose they would creep. Thanks Moss.

I like your wrench because it's a problem solved with as simple of design as possible. Start using levers, moving parts, or even a rigid tether and it can get complicated. I've mocked up ideas that seemed good over the morning coffee. In application the idea was just wrong. Even the pivot pin on a pair of plyers has to be centered so I'd be back to a tight rope bend. Like the wrench when engaged, then how would it open up to get around the center pin. I forgot I played with that a couple years ago and found the difficulties in keeping design simple.
 
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Oh I suppose they would creep. Thanks Moss.

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Hitch shouldn't creep for RW climbing. First thing you do after you tie your hitch under the wrench on the ground (or in the tree if that's where you tied your hitch) is do a grab test on the hitch, from fully compressed/slacked hitch to loaded by jerking the rope up. If the hitch slips/creeps whatever, it's a re-tie/re-configure until it grabs every time. I guess that is a big difference from DdRT where a little hitch creep isn't a big deal.
-AJ
 
I meant the wrench would creep enough to allow the hitch to jam. I should get one but I really don't have any big lateral branches to play on where I work. It would be for fun climbs and I've traded those for dollars.
 
The aluminum tether works very well and adds a faster wrench reaction time. Meaning the wrench engages quicker. Also the wrench stays further away from the hitch all the time.

When it comes to tending slack the aluminum tether pushes the wrench up instead of the hitch. This makes for a smooth action.
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Here's my version of the Oceans (Eric Whipple) RW tether. I used a single length of NE Ropes tech cord as the base material, doubled it to form the single eye up top and double eye at the bottom then sewed it securely. Put "heavy-walled" shrink tubing on the outside to provide the correct amount of rigidity. Probably overdid it on the sewing but it will not fail. Hand sewing is slow, machine slowing would be the way to go for production. It's bomber and works well.

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The tech cord being stitched
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Stitching detail
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Slingshot tubing bumper on the top to maintain good neutral position, nylon spacers to provide snug horizontal fit for the single tether eye to the ZK2
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Advancer can clip to the middle attachment on the HC or the top attachment point if using an accessory or mini-biner
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All the photos for closer detail

-AJ
 
moss, this is why you are the man! That's some gorgeous work. The very first tether I made used that Maxim cordage with fisherman's knots. I then inquired with Lars at NER about stitching that cordage and was given the "NO-GO" based on the parallel core construction.

Now, I know it's not primary life support, and your stitching looks bomb-proof, so of course you'll be just fine. Just divulging why I didn't go further with that cordage.

Can't wait to try it!!!
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Nice work again Moss, your hand stitching would pass for robot machine.

Just out of interest is what are peoples experiences/thoughts on solid tethers? There is no flex in the shaft on mine (carbon fibre) but it has some movement at the attachment points (RW & biner). I haven't noticed any performance issues just that it engages a little quicker.
 
Tony, I'm of the mindset that a bit of flex is a good thing if you need a minor amount of conforming to limbs here and there. Obviously, one wants to prevent the system from rolling over a branch under load, but it "could" happen intentionally or not.

The tether I made sure seems sensitive enough as far as engaging properly. I honestly think that moss' design is on the right track.
 
Gotcha, Tony. Yes, I agree about the soft tether and it's wild to think of how many people may still be using one. Watching the 'Singing Tree' video again (viking posted it in 'MAN OF THE YEAR' thread) was fun. Kevin had a crazy long Bee Line tether with a snap on the end. If you haven't seen it you may find it entertaining.
I hear something is in the works for a new RW specific pulley and I'm sure a bomb tether will either be integrated or made in conjunction. We'll see! Exciting to see what will become.
 
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The very first tether I made used that Maxim cordage with fisherman's knots. I then inquired with Lars at NER about stitching that cordage and was given the "NO-GO" based on the parallel core construction.

[/ QUOTE ]

That makes sense, if the core was braided I can see how well it would all lock up with stitches going through. But as you say, for the use, don't think it will give up. I'll climb on it Sunday and shoot some video.

Can we convince NE Ropes to make a braided core version of the Maxim? There's probably a technical reason they haven't done it already. And no, I'm not going to strip the core out, hand braid it and stuff it back in ;-)
-AJ
 
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