Negative rigging pry bars

One more thought on rounds that are about as wide as they are tall. I have used both a straight clawed hammer and a Fiscars hatchet for driving my tethered climbing wedges. Well each of those tools can be inserted under the sides of a round that is supported by wedges and when the handle is flipped 180 degrees forward it walks the pumpkin to the leading edge of the spar.
 
Yes, very nice for the visuals and for getting the idea across. I never thought of using a single rod perpendicular to the line of cut but that could make mid size rounds more manageable. When they start getting big, parallel to the line of cut and three or four inserted as you go and they act as rollers.
 
If your making flat cuts and pushing logs off a spar, when they are getting big and hard to push, make your cut at a slight downward angle towards where you want the log to go. A little bit of angle makes the log slide right off. Too much angle and the log will slide before you push it. It doesn't take much angle to make it easy to push them off so go light and they will hold their place until you push them. Experiment where it is safe and find out how much angle is too much and how much is enough.
 
Jemco said:
I remember Reg designing a wood slidin tool for Stein.

I use a mini pry bar to scoot things along.

One day I'm gonna take a cordless drill up with me.

When wood gets fat, over 3-4 foot diameter, it's difficult to gain a secure rope grip on progressively shorter lengths of wood, and stay within the SWL of your lowering line.

Which all too often leads to quartering big fat wood rounds vertically like Graeme McMahon on a fat Regnan's spar.

So I wanna try drilling those quartered rounds screwing a steel eyelet into the hole, attaching to a speedline, and sending em off.

Would the eyelets pull out?

Jemco
Click to expand...
Reg has or had a video of speedlining cookies. 4 eye lags drilled in to each.
Looked like a epic pain in the ass
 
samsquatch said:
I'm thinking bigger chunks, when cutting deeper would make your butt pucker up.
Click to expand...
I've cut a chunk or two.




I tend to use Gord's Magic Cut with humboldt style face, when available. Good directional control when vertical, still with rotational control based on open-ness of face-cut.

That slight downward slope, with saw chips in the kerf, with some slight rocking, letting gravity do things little by little, can do a lot.
 
Another interesting little snippet is that coffee enemas were a common British remedy for shell shock in WWI and are mentioned to that effect in instructions to doctors and staff in the Royal Army Medical Corp.
 
They may not have needed to enema from the traditional end as the coffee might have been bad enough to go straight through... The Brits were known for drinking tea yes?
 
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