lightweights

GoodYautja

GoodYautja

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Location
New England
I don't weigh very much. I have been climbing on 11.7mm double braid with a zk1 (opened all the way up). It has worked well. I recently got some 11mm kernmaster and I find due to the increased stiffness of the rope that the system has too much friction (I can sit into the wrench with an open hitch and sometimes not move a bit). Any ideas? Any thoughts on if a HH would provide more or less friction than the RW? Maybe I will just carry my 372 around with me whenever I climb...
 
If I have a flat rope angle or something and having trouble like that I grab the top of the wrench to get moving.

edit- I weigh 145
 
Yeah, bouncing or grabbing the wrench is the short-term solution, but not what I want to be doing every single time I want to move down rope. Changing the hitch or hitch cord isn't going to do anything since the issue exists when my hitch is wide open.

I guess I was wondering if anyone had any RW customization tricks up their sleeves to create less friction for the featherweight/stiff-ropers.

Or any experience with the HH that might be useful?

Thanks!
 
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what type of hitch cord and hitch are you using

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Read the thread. The cord is not the issue.

Not having used either tool I think you need a custom RW with less offset in the friction pins. Maybe the HH would work because it seems to work on weight related friction. More weight pulls the steel biner down harder so less weight should pull it down less.
Just some thoughts.
 
Oroboros is correct about the HH, it applies more friction as more load is applied which is why it works for Ddrt and Srt in the same configuration even though when used for SRT it sees twice the load.
Not familiar with the Wrench but seems like you should be able to open the gap up some and make it work, sure Kevin will chime in.
 
I think you should try some of these!

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Tony
 

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That's a serious burger and I'm gonna take your advice starting right now with the beers.

As for the RW, I agree I need to customize it to open it up a bit more. I have the zk1, which is already slightly adjustable, and I do have as far open as I can get it, so I am now in the market for a slightly smaller diameter permanent pin to switch out. Finding it may not be easy but I think its the only way im gonna make the RW work for me.

Good info on the HH. I just been putting off getting one for so long... I just gotta get it and give it a go.

Who knows maybe there is a new invention just around the corner that will work...

Cheers!
 
ok,
this is a question I have had for a while. when we switched from drt to srt we had to add in something to take load off the hitch. if you are only starting with half the load in the first place do you need to add anything?
I'm talking guys who are in the 110 - 130 range.

if you use a hitch with a high ration of surface area to nip. like that hitch that josh jump made up. ( which is great for heavier guys.) do you need the wrench?




thoughts?
 
Yo, Pred. Check the performance of the RW with different amounts of tail length hanging freely below you. My guess is that it will work better with less tail below. I know you get into some large trees down there, and tail weight could be accounting for some of what you're experiencing.

Also, you should see what it acts like with the rear pin being re-drilled to a point closer to the sheaves. The less leverage that the RW has on the line, the more weight will be put back into your hitch...know what I mean? You feather weights may be able to get away with a real short wrench length.

Also, hopefully 'moss' will chime in, because it's actually been verified that he weighs nothing, and he cooks on that thing.
 
Oceans, good thinking on the re-drill. Thanks for the tail info, my instinct was the reverse (longer tail makes it easier to run the wrench) but obviously you are correct and I DID notice the higher up i was the harder it was to run it. Hmm.

Treehive, I have been thinking about this EXACT same thing recently. First thing I did was try to climb on just a hitch---> Not possible for me... just locks up. Then I was wondering, like you were?, what if i used a hitch with say 8 wraps and 6 braids? Maybe that is outrageous but my question is, in theory, would that be operable solo (without a wrench)? Anyone?
 
Try it with a thick climb line (like 9/16" or 5/8") and use at least a 10mm hitch. It might work for a featherweight, but I wouldn't count on it too much.

I think the re-drill is probably your best option, along with redirecting your tail here and there...when it gets too long and heavy.
 
I can't be bothered to tend my tail or do anything else extraneous to make this work, if it comes down to it, I will sell the 11mm kern master and pick 10mm HTP which, with my opened up zk1 is really nice. But I will probably try a re-drill or switch out one of the 'rollers' so I can keep the rope.

on top of that, I will be experimenting with full friction SRT and will keep all you lightweights informed of my results... gotta go search some archives...
 
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